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anyone with aftermarket rotors?

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47K views 31 replies 24 participants last post by  John-BuyBrakes.com  
#1 ·
besides a trd big brake kit, i have not come across anyone that has upgraded there rotors?

i am debating between stop tech:
slotted
cross drilled
slotted and cross drilled

currently the cross driller are on back order for a month, and i am tempted to go with the slotted and cross drilled.

i do tow a fair bit, and my truck is loaded to the max everyday for work. i do live in the mountains and go through some very hot summers.

ive heard cross drilled rotors are very prone to warping?

i plan on going with trd brake pads.
 
#9 ·
Were the Duralast rotors vented?
 
#4 ·
I upgrade the same time I installed the lift and used a set of front/rear "drilled only" zinc coated rotors and ceramic pads. Power Sport is the brand sold by brake labs on ebay, after the 40-50 mile break in period they really bite well with minimal fade. My factory rotors were warped and the pads were due to be changed. I'm more than happy with the set and they look brand new. The Zinc coating is a must.

SEQUOIA/TUNDRA [FRT+RR Kit] *CROSS DRILLED* Brake Rotors + CERAMIC Pads | eBay
 
#5 ·
I upgraded in the fall. Went with DBA slotted rotors in the front(none for the rear) and power slot for the rear. So far they are great. A bit pricey though for the DBA's but worth not warping. I believe I got them through autoanything since shipping was free. Some online compaines wanted to charge $25 per rotor in shipping. Also I scrapped them when I was finished since I pass a scap yard daily and got $18 for all four. Its not much but didnt go out of my way to do it.
 
#26 ·
I upgraded in the fall. Went with DBA slotted rotors in the front(none for the rear) and power slot for the rear. So far they are great. A bit pricey though for the DBA's but worth not warping. I believe I got them through autoanything since shipping was free.
I've been running DBA T3 4000 rotors on front for 2 years (roughly 30K miles on them)with Hawk LTS pads and they've been great. I have never experienced rotor warpage with DBAs. In fact, I run DBA rotors and Hawk pads on all my vehicles after trying Stop Tech, Power Stop, and Power Slots. Especially on my 09 Camry, I've been running DBAs and Hawk HPS for about 70k miles and the car still stops like they are new. Only the downside is they are little expensive compared to other brands.
 
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#7 ·
I went with the R1 concepts premium drilled and slotted for front and back. I have put about fifteen k on them and I am pretty happy. No warping and I have had a couple really hard stops and alittle hauling done as well, almost 2 k. Mostly I drive long distances for work, with a few hundred lbs of tools in the truck. So far so good. Will know alot more after fall as to how they are holding up.
 
#8 ·
Powerslot is the way to go, especially the cryo treated series. Avoid cross drilling. It weakens the rotor. and does absolutely nothing for performance other than look cool. Slotting does help disperse heat and dust, without degrading integrity of the rotor too much.

EBC also makes very good rotors. I personally stick with Powerslot or EBC unless your willing to dump a few $k for a BBK. I have just standard Powerslot rotors on my supra, and they have survived a couple track days with no warping or cracks... The pads were another story, they didnt survive lol.
 
#10 ·
i have used brembo, and powerslot in the past when i was in the 300zxTT crowd and the MR2 TURBO crowd......I found that rotors actually had the least to do with any of it and that your tires have light years more to do with traction and stopping than I previously thought.

Yes slotted and drilled rotors are eye candy and will eventually crack and warp if you actually race while using them over time.

Just my 2 cents, from my experiences, before you start throwin cash at snake oil.
 
#14 ·
Do they have an air space in between the front braking surface and the rear surface or are they solid?

OEM's are vented.
 
#16 ·
R1 concepts uses Centric blanks..just get Brembo blanks and you won't be worrying about cracking and terrible pad life. The slots cut layers off the pad each time you apply the brakes. The cross drilled are prone to cracking.
 
#19 ·
Realize it's been a while since last post on this topic, but for those using the R1 premium rotors, how are they holding up? I'm looking at sloted for the rear and possibly sloted/drilled for the front or just sloted? I have a the 4x4 crew cab and had towed a lot in the past...not much now and am heavy on breaks...like to drive it like I stole it!
 
#20 ·
JUST got my self some rotors and ceramic pads from brake labs.

Non-drilled, non-slotted, OE Replacement

read some really good reviews.
 
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#22 ·
I've had really good luck with my 1gen using slotted, drilled, and cryo'd rotors from FrozenRotors. So much so that I am a dealer for them. You can't beat cryo'd rotors, it changes the molecular structure of the cast rotor and makes it act more like a forged rotor. Forging mechanically pounds the molecules 'into order', while cryo chemically does the same thing. This gives the metal a memory which makes it resist warping.

I've had the same rotors on the truck thru 3 sets of EBC greenstuff6000 pads. I just ordered new greenstuff7000 pads and new rotors.

I'd be happy to give anyone a price with shipping if interested.
 
#23 ·
#25 ·
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#27 ·
Two weeks ago I ordered the stop tech brake kit for my fronts and rears from sosperformance.com My truck is a 2012 CrewMax.

Here is the link to that kit: Tundra Racing Stoptech Brake Rotors, Pads & Lines

The kit comes with 6 stainless steel flexible lines that replace all rubber lines in the truck, 4 slotted or drilled Stop Tech Rotors and performance pads. I got the slotted rotors. I installed the kit last week on thursday.

I noticed my pedal firmed up substantially and is much higher. Once they're broken in properly, I anticipate no more warping up front. My old rotors and brakes had almost 60k but the stock rotors were warped badly. Price is reasonable for the increased amount of performance gained. Complete job cost $799 + labor if you have a shop do the work. It's a pretty easy job though.

**I also used slotted, cryo front rotors on my GF's '09 Acura TSX. Her rotors were defective and warped again after the dealer replaced them a second time. I did her front brakes 6 mos ago and her pedal remains firm and free of the pulse associated with warping. I added a higher performance pad that makes just a bit more dust but bites well. I recommend the Stop Tech or Centrics.
 
#28 ·
My front rotors are warped with about 22k miles. I'm looking to change them out for new ones and I will just stick with normal Centric ones. Slotted and drilled is pointless for me. Normal driving, not a lot of towing, just a lot of highway driving. Also going to ceramic for dust reduction.

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