Well, I had someone mention that they would appreciate a DIY on a front spring/rear flip kit install so I decided to do it with the least number of amenities possible. I have an air compressor and air tools at home, but many of you don't, so I didn't use them.
First, gather some tools.
You'll need:
2 floor jacks, but you could do it with just one and a set of stands.
1/2" drive deep well and shallow sockets in either metric OR standard.
1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar
19mm OR 3/4" long combination wrench.
1/2 inch wrench.
3/8 drive 10mm, 12mm, 17mm and 1/2" socket.
11/16 or 17mm long combination wrench.
A pair of pliers. I used extra long needle nose.
A hacksaw. (I nearly broke down and used the die grinder with a cutoff wheel)
Then begin to disassemble your shiny new truck...
Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Break loose the lug nuts.
Raise the truck (I did one side at a time) and support the front crossmember with a jack stand.
Remove the wheel.
Locate and remove the 2 brackets holding the ABS wire to the spindle and upper control arm with a 10mm socket.
Remove the 4 nuts holding the upper strut mount to the frame bracket using a 14mm or 9/16" socket.
Remove the keeper from the upper ball joint. Loosen the nut, but do not remove it yet.
Tap the spindle with a hammer until the ball joint tapered stud releases from the spindle. After the stud releases, raise the spindle with a jack to remove pressure, and remove the castle nut from the ball joint. You can pry the upper control arm down to make it easier.
Once the ball joint is separated, use a bungee cord to keep the spindle from falling outward and hyperextending the brake hose.
Remove the nut from the lower strut retaining bolt located on the back side of the lower control arm.
Remove the sway bar end link retaining bolt. Remember, the jack is still under the lower control arm. This removes pressure from the end link bolt.
Lower the jack holding the lower control arm and spindle up, then remove the lower strut retaining bolt.
Pry down on the lower control arm and slip the top end of the strut free from the frame bracket and upper control arm.
You can remove the nut holding the strut assembly together before taking it completely out, or remove the entire assembly and take it to a shop so they can swap springs for you. For safety sake, I recommend the latter. I have had these apart before and there is very little pressure on the nut at full strut extension. If you decide to disassemble the strut, you do so at your own risk. Remove the upper strut mount.
Remove the stock spring.
Install the replacement spring. The nut will go right back on, because the new springs are shorter than the originals.
Be aware that there is a specific orientation regarding the upper strut mount. Toyota was kind enough to mark it with an arrow and the word "OUT" to make this easy.
Reassembly is basically the reverse of the disassembly process. **EDIT**There is one other thing I forgot to mention. When reinstalling the lower strut bolt and the sway bar end link bolt, DO NOT tighten them without loading the spring. You need to be sure the weight of the truck is on the lower control arm when these 2 bolts are tightened. If not, the bushing will twist when weight is put back on the suspension and they will fail prematurely. (they certainly don't need any help in that department) If anyone has any questions, feel free to post them and I'll try to answer before I start posting the rear flip kit install procedure.
First, gather some tools.
You'll need:
2 floor jacks, but you could do it with just one and a set of stands.
1/2" drive deep well and shallow sockets in either metric OR standard.
1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar
19mm OR 3/4" long combination wrench.
1/2 inch wrench.
3/8 drive 10mm, 12mm, 17mm and 1/2" socket.
11/16 or 17mm long combination wrench.
A pair of pliers. I used extra long needle nose.
A hacksaw. (I nearly broke down and used the die grinder with a cutoff wheel)
Then begin to disassemble your shiny new truck...
Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Break loose the lug nuts.
Raise the truck (I did one side at a time) and support the front crossmember with a jack stand.
Remove the wheel.
Locate and remove the 2 brackets holding the ABS wire to the spindle and upper control arm with a 10mm socket.
Remove the 4 nuts holding the upper strut mount to the frame bracket using a 14mm or 9/16" socket.
Remove the keeper from the upper ball joint. Loosen the nut, but do not remove it yet.
Tap the spindle with a hammer until the ball joint tapered stud releases from the spindle. After the stud releases, raise the spindle with a jack to remove pressure, and remove the castle nut from the ball joint. You can pry the upper control arm down to make it easier.
Once the ball joint is separated, use a bungee cord to keep the spindle from falling outward and hyperextending the brake hose.
Remove the nut from the lower strut retaining bolt located on the back side of the lower control arm.
Remove the sway bar end link retaining bolt. Remember, the jack is still under the lower control arm. This removes pressure from the end link bolt.
Lower the jack holding the lower control arm and spindle up, then remove the lower strut retaining bolt.
Pry down on the lower control arm and slip the top end of the strut free from the frame bracket and upper control arm.
You can remove the nut holding the strut assembly together before taking it completely out, or remove the entire assembly and take it to a shop so they can swap springs for you. For safety sake, I recommend the latter. I have had these apart before and there is very little pressure on the nut at full strut extension. If you decide to disassemble the strut, you do so at your own risk. Remove the upper strut mount.
Remove the stock spring.
Install the replacement spring. The nut will go right back on, because the new springs are shorter than the originals.
Be aware that there is a specific orientation regarding the upper strut mount. Toyota was kind enough to mark it with an arrow and the word "OUT" to make this easy.
Reassembly is basically the reverse of the disassembly process. **EDIT**There is one other thing I forgot to mention. When reinstalling the lower strut bolt and the sway bar end link bolt, DO NOT tighten them without loading the spring. You need to be sure the weight of the truck is on the lower control arm when these 2 bolts are tightened. If not, the bushing will twist when weight is put back on the suspension and they will fail prematurely. (they certainly don't need any help in that department) If anyone has any questions, feel free to post them and I'll try to answer before I start posting the rear flip kit install procedure.