Here's the front half of my earlier DIY on rear brakes.
Please also read the "BRAKING POINTS" PDF at the bottom of this first post! It contains a TON of great information!
Set the parking brake, break the lug nuts loose, then raise and support the front end with jack stands.
Remove the front wheels. This is what you will see.
Remove the wire retainer that secures the pins and the spring that separates the brake pads.
Remove the rubber cap and connect a bleed container to the bleeder screw. Insert a flat screwdriver or brake spoon between the rotor and the old brake pad. If you are reusing the old rotors, be careful not to gouge them. Open the bleeder and pry the brake pad toward the caliper. Once the caliper piston is fully depressed, insert a small piece of wood (or something to hold the pistons in place) between the rotor and the brake pad. Pry the other brake pad away from the rotor to compress the other half of the caliper.
Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
Unbolt the bracket that secures the brake line to the spindle and remove the clip that holds the hard line to the bracket. This allows more movement of the caliper without pulling on the wheel speed sensor wiring. You want to avoid bending the hard brake line to move the caliper.
Remove the 2 bolts attaching the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper and suspend it with a wire coat hanger or secure it on top of the lower control arm so it can't fall. Do not allow it to hang from the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
Remove the old brake rotor by inserting bolts into the provided threaded holes in the rotor. Alternate tightening the bolts until the rotor is free. You may need to use a plastic dead blow hammer to help break it loose.
If you are replacing the rotor, compare the old part to the new rotor to be certain the replacement rotor is correct.
Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner and a paper towel. Don't use a shop rag.
Clean the hub with a wire brush to remove corrosion. If there is a dimple left by the bolt we used to remove the rotor, be sure to file flat any raised spots.
Apply a very light coat of antiseize to the hub where the rotor meets the raised part of the hub. Don't apply anything between the flat part of the hub and rotor.
Locate the threaded holes on the new rotor and clock them to the same position as the marks left on the hub. Make sure the marks in the hub line up with the threaded holes in the rotor so that if there is any imperfection or rust in that area, it will not keep the rotor from properly seating against the hub.
Install the rotor and thread on one lug nut finger tight to keep the rotor in place as you attach the caliper.
Clean the caliper where the brake pads ride with a wire brush and apply a light coat of brake caliper grease to the 8 flats.
Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts. IIRC, the proper torque is 74ft lbs.(thx for looking that up for me, Rockstate)
Reattach the brake line bracket and clip.
Apply brake caliper lube to the back of the brake pads to help eliminate vibrations which we hear as squeaks.
Install the brake pads into the caliper. Clean the pins that secure the brake pads with a wire brush and apply a thin coat of silver antiseize to them. Install the pins into the caliper and through the holes in the brake pads. Don't forget to reinstall the spring on the lower pin as you install it.
Reinstall the retaining wire spring through both pins and secure the center into place.
Repeat for the other side.
Reinstall the wheels and torque them. I highly recommend avoiding air tools on these trucks to avoid killing the rotor. Hand install and hand torque the wheels.
Check and top off the master cylinder with DOT3 brake fluid. Pump up the brakes using short slow strokes. Long strokes can send the master cylinder plunger into unused territory. On older cars with some corrosion in the bore, this can cause master cylinder failure. Recheck the brake fluid level and road test. I recommend retorquing the wheels after driving it a while.
Please also read the "BRAKING POINTS" PDF at the bottom of this first post! It contains a TON of great information!
Set the parking brake, break the lug nuts loose, then raise and support the front end with jack stands.
Remove the front wheels. This is what you will see.
Remove the wire retainer that secures the pins and the spring that separates the brake pads.
Remove the rubber cap and connect a bleed container to the bleeder screw. Insert a flat screwdriver or brake spoon between the rotor and the old brake pad. If you are reusing the old rotors, be careful not to gouge them. Open the bleeder and pry the brake pad toward the caliper. Once the caliper piston is fully depressed, insert a small piece of wood (or something to hold the pistons in place) between the rotor and the brake pad. Pry the other brake pad away from the rotor to compress the other half of the caliper.
Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
Unbolt the bracket that secures the brake line to the spindle and remove the clip that holds the hard line to the bracket. This allows more movement of the caliper without pulling on the wheel speed sensor wiring. You want to avoid bending the hard brake line to move the caliper.
Remove the 2 bolts attaching the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper and suspend it with a wire coat hanger or secure it on top of the lower control arm so it can't fall. Do not allow it to hang from the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
Remove the old brake rotor by inserting bolts into the provided threaded holes in the rotor. Alternate tightening the bolts until the rotor is free. You may need to use a plastic dead blow hammer to help break it loose.
If you are replacing the rotor, compare the old part to the new rotor to be certain the replacement rotor is correct.
Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner and a paper towel. Don't use a shop rag.
Clean the hub with a wire brush to remove corrosion. If there is a dimple left by the bolt we used to remove the rotor, be sure to file flat any raised spots.
Apply a very light coat of antiseize to the hub where the rotor meets the raised part of the hub. Don't apply anything between the flat part of the hub and rotor.
Locate the threaded holes on the new rotor and clock them to the same position as the marks left on the hub. Make sure the marks in the hub line up with the threaded holes in the rotor so that if there is any imperfection or rust in that area, it will not keep the rotor from properly seating against the hub.
Install the rotor and thread on one lug nut finger tight to keep the rotor in place as you attach the caliper.
Clean the caliper where the brake pads ride with a wire brush and apply a light coat of brake caliper grease to the 8 flats.
Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts. IIRC, the proper torque is 74ft lbs.(thx for looking that up for me, Rockstate)
Reattach the brake line bracket and clip.
Apply brake caliper lube to the back of the brake pads to help eliminate vibrations which we hear as squeaks.
Install the brake pads into the caliper. Clean the pins that secure the brake pads with a wire brush and apply a thin coat of silver antiseize to them. Install the pins into the caliper and through the holes in the brake pads. Don't forget to reinstall the spring on the lower pin as you install it.
Reinstall the retaining wire spring through both pins and secure the center into place.
Repeat for the other side.
Reinstall the wheels and torque them. I highly recommend avoiding air tools on these trucks to avoid killing the rotor. Hand install and hand torque the wheels.
Check and top off the master cylinder with DOT3 brake fluid. Pump up the brakes using short slow strokes. Long strokes can send the master cylinder plunger into unused territory. On older cars with some corrosion in the bore, this can cause master cylinder failure. Recheck the brake fluid level and road test. I recommend retorquing the wheels after driving it a while.