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Front Brake Job w/new rotors

196K views 125 replies 57 participants last post by  HolyGuacamole 
#1 · (Edited)
Here's the front half of my earlier DIY on rear brakes.
Please also read the "BRAKING POINTS" PDF at the bottom of this first post! It contains a TON of great information!

Set the parking brake, break the lug nuts loose, then raise and support the front end with jack stands.

Remove the front wheels. This is what you will see.



Remove the wire retainer that secures the pins and the spring that separates the brake pads.











Remove the rubber cap and connect a bleed container to the bleeder screw. Insert a flat screwdriver or brake spoon between the rotor and the old brake pad. If you are reusing the old rotors, be careful not to gouge them. Open the bleeder and pry the brake pad toward the caliper. Once the caliper piston is fully depressed, insert a small piece of wood (or something to hold the pistons in place) between the rotor and the brake pad. Pry the other brake pad away from the rotor to compress the other half of the caliper.





Remove the brake pads from the caliper.





Unbolt the bracket that secures the brake line to the spindle and remove the clip that holds the hard line to the bracket. This allows more movement of the caliper without pulling on the wheel speed sensor wiring. You want to avoid bending the hard brake line to move the caliper.







Remove the 2 bolts attaching the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper and suspend it with a wire coat hanger or secure it on top of the lower control arm so it can't fall. Do not allow it to hang from the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.



Remove the old brake rotor by inserting bolts into the provided threaded holes in the rotor. Alternate tightening the bolts until the rotor is free. You may need to use a plastic dead blow hammer to help break it loose.







If you are replacing the rotor, compare the old part to the new rotor to be certain the replacement rotor is correct.



Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner and a paper towel. Don't use a shop rag.



Clean the hub with a wire brush to remove corrosion. If there is a dimple left by the bolt we used to remove the rotor, be sure to file flat any raised spots.





Apply a very light coat of antiseize to the hub where the rotor meets the raised part of the hub. Don't apply anything between the flat part of the hub and rotor.



Locate the threaded holes on the new rotor and clock them to the same position as the marks left on the hub. Make sure the marks in the hub line up with the threaded holes in the rotor so that if there is any imperfection or rust in that area, it will not keep the rotor from properly seating against the hub.





Install the rotor and thread on one lug nut finger tight to keep the rotor in place as you attach the caliper.



Clean the caliper where the brake pads ride with a wire brush and apply a light coat of brake caliper grease to the 8 flats.



Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts. IIRC, the proper torque is 74ft lbs.(thx for looking that up for me, Rockstate)



Reattach the brake line bracket and clip.





Apply brake caliper lube to the back of the brake pads to help eliminate vibrations which we hear as squeaks.



Install the brake pads into the caliper. Clean the pins that secure the brake pads with a wire brush and apply a thin coat of silver antiseize to them. Install the pins into the caliper and through the holes in the brake pads. Don't forget to reinstall the spring on the lower pin as you install it.



Reinstall the retaining wire spring through both pins and secure the center into place.









Repeat for the other side.



Reinstall the wheels and torque them. I highly recommend avoiding air tools on these trucks to avoid killing the rotor. Hand install and hand torque the wheels.



Check and top off the master cylinder with DOT3 brake fluid. Pump up the brakes using short slow strokes. Long strokes can send the master cylinder plunger into unused territory. On older cars with some corrosion in the bore, this can cause master cylinder failure. Recheck the brake fluid level and road test. I recommend retorquing the wheels after driving it a while.

 

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#2 ·
Thanks Socal for taking your time to make us a write up.

Question, how are the Centric rotors holding up in the rear?
I been looking and there seems to be different "levels" up to "platinum" Centric Rotors, which did you get? And pads? I got the green HAWKS, are those any good?
 
#5 · (Edited)
I used the cheap rotors in the rear, but went with premium in the front because the fronts are so incredibly prone to warping. The rear rotors are doing great. I think I have about 8,000 miles on them already. Hawk makes good pads, but people need to be aware of how high performance pads work. Most true high performance pads use compounds that perform best at higher operating temps. Many Hi Perf pads don't perform as well cold as they do hot. I would contact Hawk directly for characteristics concerning their different compounds.
Excellent writeup Socal, as always! Two questions for ya if you don't mind:

1) If only replacing the rotors, is it still necessary to remove the pads and/or compress the pistons?
Usually the new rotors will be just a bit thicker than the old ones and will require that the pistons be partially pushed back in. There are tools that press them back in after removing tha caliper. If you don't do it for a living, it may not be worth the $$ to buy a tool. To minimize damage to the friction surface, you can remove the pads and turn them around backwards while you compress the caliper pistons with a coupke "C" clamps or large "Channel-Lock" style pliers. Since we have 4 pictons per caliper on the front, it can be a bit cumbersome. Just take your time and be careful not to overextend the wheel speed sensor wiring or brake hose. :)
2) Is there a tool or other method that can be used to compress the pistons in order to remove the pads other than opening the bleed screw as you showed?
It's not absolutely necessary to open the bleeder. Slowly compress the piston and the fluid will be forced back toward the master cylinder. I don't condone doing it this way because debris and contaminated fliud is pushed out of the caliper and back into the lines. The worst fluid in the system will be in the calipers because that's where the heat is. This is a great time to get rid of it.
great write-up -- thanks for putting this together! i always like to know what i'm getting into before diving into a project on a new vehicle.

quick question: are the rear brakes any different or pretty much the same?
Ask and you shall receive. :D
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-diys/100285-rear-brake-job-w-new-rotors.html

...
 
#6 · (Edited)
I had a phone discussion with a fellow TT member this morning and wanted to share some more info here. Hopefully it will help people choose a brake pad combination that fits their needs and add some background for doing a proper brake job.
Here's a link to Bendix tech info. There is a pulldown tab under "tech corner" that opens up tech videos and FAQs. They are directed toward businesses, but the info there applies to anyone wanting to learn more about how to do a brake job and some ins and outs of brake pads, lubrication, friction compounds, etc.
Bendix :: Tech Corner : Training Videos

Here's a pdf of the front brakes from Toyota that includes torque specs...
 

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#7 ·
Great write up. I have a question. When I take delivery of my '12 Tundra in early Jan., I want to paint all 4 calipers. I think I will use G2 caliper paint. From what I have read most have suggested completely removing the calipers and spraying them to get complete coverage. I know this will require bleeding all of them but I want it to look good and last a long time. Do you have any suggestions for me on this project. Also I note you said you had done another writeup on rear brakes. Where can I find that so I know what I am getting into on the rear?
 
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#8 · (Edited)
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-diys/100285-rear-brake-job-w-new-rotors.html

Actually, you can do a really good job with the calipers unbolted, but still attached to the truck hydraulically...especially if you do it before it has any miles on it. I would support both axles and remove all 4 wheels. Unbolt the calipers and hang them from a piece of wire while you tape the area off. Tape off the entire area around the calipers. You don't want overspray on anything. Tape off the lines leading to the calipers and support the calipers from the inside (where the brake pads live) with a piece of 2x4 braced against the ground. You can nail a piece of plywood to the bottom to give it some stability. At the shop, we used muffler stands, but you probably don't have a lift anyway. Clean and dry them thoroughly with brake cleaner to get all the dust and any residue off the calipers. Spray them and let them dry. Turn them over after they are good and dry, then touch up any areas you may have missed. Be patient and don't get in a hurry.
This saves you from having to bleed them and removes the possibility of getting brake fluid on the fresh caliper paint when you do bleed them. On a brand new car that doesn't require a lot of cleaning before paint, I would do them on the truck.
If you don't have a lot of experience bleeding brakes, you should have a shop pull the calipers to paint them if you really want to go that route. They will likely have a scantool with ABS bleed capability.
 
#9 ·
Alright leaving them on it is. I really didn't want to pull them. Thank you for the suggestions on getting the painting done. I was thinking the same thing, do it when it is new. Only problem, I think the G2 instructions are not to do it below 50 degrees F. Days that warm, in January, in Oregon are rare and the sucker is to big to fit in the garage. I'll think of something but they will get done ASAP. I am going to order the G2 tomorrow.
 
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#10 ·
Seems like we charged $127.50 to mask off and paint calipers when I worked in PB. If you could find a shop to do it for that, I think it would be worth it just to stay warm. (It's almost always above 50 here) :D
 
#14 ·
I will take pics. I can't wait till this truck gets here. My daughter lives down the street from Sarah Palin. We rented a 5 bedroom log house up in the mountains somewhere though. I have never been to Alaska so this will all be new to me.
 
#16 ·
Where did you get the bolts for the threaded holes in the rotor?
 
#17 ·
I'm a car guy. I have TONS of odds and ends laying around. I believe the bolts you are looking for are 8x1.25. They only need an inch or so of threads.
 
#18 ·
Just for my curiousity - - How many miles are ya'll getting on your stock pads?? Do you recommend replacing rotors on initial brake job.... even if theyre in good shape? My local dealer wants $200 for a front pad job!! ....... They said today I should have no problem getting at least 50,000 miles out of mine. 45,500 now.....
 
#23 ·
What SoCal said sounds reasonable, it's more about driving/braking conditions than actual mileage. Just go get a good set of pads and do the job yourself and go spend the money you save on something cool for yourself. If you are unsure SoCal posted a really good write up to follow.
 
#24 ·
I have 31K on my truck and have about 75% pad material left. I anticipate my stops as much as practical and consider myself "easy" on brakes. I also rarely tow. I'll probably make 100K or close to it before needing new pads. I'm still on the original rotors too, but with the cheap Chinese steel used in today's rotors I doubt I'll make 50k on those.
 
#25 ·
The OE rotors are pretty soft IMO. I just replaced my front brakes yesterday at 68k miles. It only takes a panic stop or two to warp them. I went with Porterfield pads and Centric rotors. Parts alone were $300. I did the install, which is very straight forward unless you strip the threads on a caliper.



E Benke, mobile
Sent from my iPhone
 
#27 ·
I paid $95 ea. for the rotors. Porterfield Racing in Costa Mesa, Ca.
 
#30 ·
Just because its made in China doesn't mean its bad, it depends on the quality of material used, the design, and tooling.

Centric premium rotors and their powerslot and stoptech lines are very high quality rotors. Avoid the standard rotor (Not bad though, equal to Napa premium grade)

I believe Hawk Rotors are cast in Medina, Ohio, although they do not have them for the 07+ trucks yet.
 
#32 ·
Bad day changing my brake pads. I started on the driver side fronts and while trying to open the bleeder screw, I managed to snap it off the caliper because it had rusted tight. Tried to use a screw extractor with no luck and even tried to drill and tap a new bleeder screw which also didn't work. Anyway, picking up a recon raybestos calpier tomorrow at Autozone for $79.00 + core. Then while changing the passenger side front, while compressing the pistons one started leaking brake fluid. I'm pretty sure it was due to the the piston being extended further than normal. Tomorrows test drive could be an adventure.
 
#34 ·
Great thread. Just did my front brakes - 2007 DC, 48000 miles, pads were just down to the warning marks - all nice and even. First time I have ever done dual caliper brakes. Had a little issue on the drivers side getting the top pin out. The passenger side I could not get the inside pad out. Ended up removing the caliper and hammering it out from the backside. Took a lot longer than I had hoped but everything looks good now. Will pull the rears over the weekend and check those.
 
#36 ·
I wish to thank you again SoCal .
B/c of your writeup, I found enough courage to do this myself. I went the "sporty" cross drilled and slotted route and I love how it looks.

I even found the courage to change to SS brake lines.

Once I found out how to post pics, I will show you "your" hard work.

Thanks again.
That's great guys! Glad it was useful and, most of all, saved you some money!
 
#37 ·
A related question: I have a Motive Brake Bleeder system which I've used successfully on other vehicles, but never on the Tundra. This system pushes the old fluid out instead of sucking it out like vacuum style bleeders which I don't like. Is there anything different about bleeding the entire brake system on our Tundra's that I need to be aware of? Does the abs system need to be cycled in order to do a proper bleed job? That is the only thing that worries me. I like to do a complete brake fluid flush every 3 years regardless of what the fluid looks like in the reservoir.
 
#38 ·
You can buy test strips that measure the moisture content of the brake fluid. That's a great way to tell whether it's time to change the "clean looking" brake fluid or not. You could probably buy a single test strip for a buck or two from a local lube/brake shop...or have them dip the fluid for you.

Most ABS systems need to be flushed with a scantool accessing the ABS bleed/flush procedure. I assume that the only way to get all the fluid out of the valves and accumulator is to flush it with a scantool.
 
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