If you want to know difference and from experience call WHEELERS OFF ROAD and ask them. They know Toyota trucks and can give you a ton of info.

 

Thanks for the reply Evol, I bought them last week from Low Range along with an OME lift. Everything for a in Tuesday so it looks like I will answer my own question shortly.

 

Call them for the UCA QUESTIONS and tell us here how to install the top "WASHER" to get proper alignment. Meaning what position.
I also read they had issue with boots, but that was back in 09.
Find out before install, unless you know already and tell the rest of us, well at least me?

 

Going to call now

 

These would fix the camber issues on lowered trucks as well. Can't wait to see what you find out.

 

Any pics?

 

I should have pics Wednesday - the install goes in Tuesday.

 

I ended up getting a hold of the guys at Light Racing direct and they got me over to this: it is a link to an installation video for a Tacoma. It is the same set up and steps except on a Tundra for our trucks. I also set the link for the PDF of the install steps. These steps show where to put the washer in relation to how much caster change you are trying to get.

25460 - Toyota Tacoma Upper Control Arms

I hope this help us out.

 

Sorry, here is the PDF

http://www.spc-tv.com/images/install-pdf/25470.pdf

 

Has the issue with the boots tearing or falling apart been fixed withe LR uca ACCORDING to the LR people?

I think by now the ball joint issue is fixed. I would have also talked to Wheelers about it as well.

Be sure about it before install instead of install with a known issue and have to redo the work. You know, measure 2 and cut ONCE.


Which position do you plan to put the top "caster washer"?

 

Ya, obviously LR isn't going to say there boots are shit but I'm looking into it more. I really haven't heard anything bad about them but it doesn't hurt to ask around.

I'm not sure where I will put the washer, I am going to go over it with the guy doing the alignment and find out from him where he wants me to set it for him to start. I think he'll have an idea where he wants to start from.

 

Well here we go:

So I got it all installed - OME 614 system with Light Racing adjustable UCA's, and a diff drop kit in the front. Coachbuilder +3 shackles in the rear with OME shocks. New tires wire Nitto Terra's 295/70/R18 and kept the stock rims and here are the numbers:

All measurements were from the ground to the top of the wheel well.
Driver's side front: prelift = 36 / postlift = 41
Passenger's side front: prelift = 36.25 / postlift = 41.25
Drivers side rear: prelift = 39 / postlift = 42
Passenger's side rear: prelift = 39.25 / postlift = 39.25

So if I take into account what the tires gave me for lift, about 1.5" (only about 1.25 in the theory but the tires they replaced were BALD BALD BALD) on the radius, that means the 614 coils gave me right around 3.5".

In the rear the Coachbuilder +3 shackles gave me about 1.5" - 1.75" which seems about right for what they were advertised to do. They are SUPER BEEFY. I do wonder how tight I am supposed to make the bolts on the lower shackle attachment to the spring. I left a little gap since there are no bushing flanges or anything to rub between the shackle and the spring (see the pics). Obviously I don’t think tight is a good situation and maybe I should make or buy some 1/16” think rub washers and put them between the two?

I had bought the Light Racing UCA's incase the alignment could not be met. We left the original arms in and tried to line it up but it wasn't even close - not remotely in the ball park. So we put the UCA's in - which went in real well considering they are through bolted with like a 14" bolt that you have to pull out from the engine compartment. Had to remove one hose but no big deal and they went in snug but just right. I'd be lying if I told you I remember where we set the caster to on the adjustable arm but I can check on that. I definitely needed them.

How does it ride? To me it reminds me of how a 3/4 ton rides except smoother through longer bumps. I have not had the time to do any real fun stuff yet so we shall see how it does there. But as some of you know, northern NH roads mid February are like riding over a choppy, pothole filled, frost heave hump from hell.

I still wonder how my CV angles look. I did add the diff drop spacers but I will always wonder about that. Getting at the bolts to drop the differential was about the biggest knuckle buster – more of a pain in the ass really.

I had to trim the front corner of the sides of the skid plates to make sure the tires weren’t rubbing (pretty standard). I could have just bend them but I went with cutting them to make it look like it was intended.

Only thing that got broke and will need replacing is one tire pressure sensor got ripped - they suck and are stupid IMO.

 

Looks great! Wonder why you couldn't get it to align without the new uca's. Few people run the ome with stock ones. But, every truck is different. I am thinking about swapping out the spacers for ome lift.

 

Good question. I think a lot of it has to do with how much lift you actually get from the OME. I know some people get as little as 2.5 and some get as much as 3.75 - all depending on which spring you buy and what you have in front for weight.

 

That includes what I got from the tires though but it definitly has changed the trucks attitude. My wife took it today while I was in PT and was at a stop sign. I had turned off the nannies and she got skittish and stepped on it. I guess it broke loose and laid a good patch. She said a bunch of DOT workers started clapping for her - nice to here.

 

Hey metalhead, how well did the OME upper rear shock mounts tighten up?

 

great, they seated real nice, we hit them with a torque wrench after to make sure.

 

no problem, I'll help if I can

 

Thanks! I sent you a PM with his phone#.

 

Really good info, great pics. Was a little concerned about the clearance to the upper end of the knuckle housing and the boots on the joint running stock offset wheels but it looks good. I have stock 18's with the 295/70 terra grapplers as well and my lift measurements are almost identical 41.25" front 42.25" rear. By the way, there is a great price on these arms at fat bob's garage. $399! I think I'm going to get a set.

Toyota Tundra Adjustable Front Upper Arms (pair) 2007-2011

 

That's a smokin price for those. Of course now you tell me.

 

I had the LR arms on my lifted FJC. Everything you need, nothing you don't. I wheeled my FJC hard, and never had any UCA issues. You'll love them. You could almost never break them or have issues with them. I say almost because some guys out there can break anything haha.

 

excellent feedback - thanks

 

Old thread but i have a 2015 and did a 3/2 readylift. Got an alignment done today and the front driver wheel still looks off. Can anyone tell me if my specs are correct? The tech told me he couldn't adjust it anymore.

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