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Your caster is bad off should almost be opposite of what the are now. Caster is the the measure of the tire front to back of fender wheel (simple version). Your measurement shows the driver side tires is infront of the passenger too much causing the pull to the right. If it was flopped and taking road crown into account should be good.

 

Find a different place to have your alignment done and ask for a refund on the one you got. That -2 is part of the reason you are pulling right. Go and check out the link to SoCal's alignment thread, it explains a lot and even give you numbers to give the alignment "specialist".

 

Didn't see the -2 and +.6 which can cause some pulling but the caster is still main culprit. Good thing is caster is not a tire wearing property bad is camber is.

 

What JHunt said sounds reasonable.

 

I talked to the guys that did the alignment today, and they said the eccentrics weren't able to be adjusted anymore to fix the alignment. Here are pictures of both sides:

If anyone can tell me whether or not my adjustments are maxed out, I would appreciate it. I am planning to take it to someone else tomorrow of Friday maybe. Any suggestions??

 

Here is the full alignment sheet from last week:

 

Your eccentrics are at full swing on the right side providing the maximum amount of travel. There aren't many alternatives to get the +.6 camber any closer to zero. The left side has too much negative camber. It can be reigned in a bit.

Concerning the right side, make sure that all your fasteners are tight. (especially if the lower ball joint to control arm bolts were removed during your install) Look for any part that isn't installed or seated correctly. Look at the upper ball joint where it atttaches to the steering knuckle. Make sure it's seated correctly and tight. You may also want to look for signs of bent parts. You may have something bent a little, but there was enough adjustment at stock ride height to still get the alignment right. Now that it's lifted and you need to utilize the full potential of the ecccentrics, there isn't room for any more adjustment.

Most of your pull is caster related, but there is enough issue with your camber that even with good caster, it would still likely pull.

 

Given the numbers I have currently, would it be possible to correct the caster difference and get it less on the left side? And if the caster is adjusted, would there be a chance that it would make camber any worse (or better)?

 

It must be inconsistency in the frames. That's the only thing I can figure. One guy is fine, the next guy can't even get close. If nothing is loose, bent or installed incorrectly, I would definitely look at adjustable upper control arms.

Given the numbers I have currently, would it be possible to correct the caster difference and get it less on the left side? And if the caster is adjusted, would there be a chance that it would make camber any worse (or better)?

Without playing with it in person, it's hard to say what you can do for sure, but...
First, I would adjust the driver rear eccentric to pull the control arm in toward the frame. That will reduce the caster on the left front while reducing the negative camber at the same time. (moves the left lower ball joint inboard and to the rear) If it is adjusted to get the camber to +.2 degrees (pos) it will reduce LF caster thus reducing your pull. It may or may not be enough to cure the pull entirely, but you can also loosen both of the RF lower control arm to frame bolts, rotate the eccentrics to their full outward capacity and then pry the coltrol arm outward as they are retightened. This moves the RF lower ball joint outward to reduce the camber as much as possible. I would then adjust the toe and do a caster sweep. If the cross caster was still huge, I would start adjusting the right front eccentric to bring the front of the control arm in toward the frame. This moves the RF lower ball joint in and forward, increasing positive camber and positive caster. I would look for the happy spot between too much camber and not enough caster, lock things down, set the toe again and drive it. If it still pulled right or the camber was over +.4 degrees, I'd do the control arms.

Hope this helps

 

DUDE!!!! Someone done stole yer Sig!!

 

Didn't you have pics and 1/4 mile times?

 

Thanks guys! Let's say I adjust the left side bolts to get +.2 camber, which lowers the caster to the point that it is below the right side...

Would you say the caster numbers are going to be too low at that point? If so, can anything be done to raise them? Given the right side is at full adjustment and camber can't necessarily be fixed...does that mean caster adjustment is also at max for that side and won't be able to be raised any?

What are the chances that if they loosen the right side adjustment bolts and pry outward on the LCA and re-tighten, that they might possibly get camber down slightly more...to maybe +.4 or so? Is it likely that by prying outward on them, that there is any chance to reduce positive camber??

 

Not really. Any caster gained at this point will be at the expense of your camber. Without buying adjustable upper control arms (considering nothing is loose, bent, or improperly installed) there isn't a lot you can do. You're limited by the amount of travel left in the eccentrics...which is virtually none at this point. Intstalling adjustable UCAs would restore your caster and allow you to properly set the camber. Wish I had better news for you.

Start by making sure there isn't another problem that's being overlooked, i.e., parts inspection time.

 

Get them to refund it and come see me in Rock Hill. I'm not too far away and I'll get you fixed up.

 

What SVT said sounds reasonable.

Agreed!

 

What SVT said sounds reasonable.