I'm powering up my pc. Be right back. I hate typing on my phone.

 

I would ask for:

Camber at .1 degree positive.
Toe at +.12 per side for a total toe in of .24 degrees.
No more than .5 degrees cross caster with less caster on the left.

Have them focus on camber, not caster. As long as the caster isn't way under .2degrees positive or way over 3 degrees positive, it should still drive ok. Straying too far from zero on camber will wear tires.
Tires are expensive, that's why I tell people to focus on good camber and toe. Even if it doesn't drive like a Cadillac, at least it won't wear out a pair of $400 tires. If you like the guys that do your alignment, post up their info so we can recommend them.
Good luck and post up pics after you get the lift installed!

I posted a few things in this thread to help explain what happens during an alignment. It helps people communicate with the alignment tech. It also helps keep shops from taking advantage of people. I used to PM the info, but the links were breaking in PMs so now I just link to the post... http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...pension-talk/100698-understanding-alignment-camber-off-damage-2.html#post634064

 

Thanks SoCal!! Appreciate the speedy response and great info! The truck is getting alligned at the local Toyota dealership, so hoping it all goes well!

 

Glad to help out. Ask to talk to the alignment tech. A lot can get lost in translation between the service writer and the tech. Let him know your concerns. Most guys are cool about it.

 

great timing, getting an alignment today on my 3" ICON lifted crewmax. Is this a general spec. for a 3" lift?

 

Yes. There really isn't much difference in specifications between lifted, lowered and stock trucks. The main difference is what it takes to achieve decent alignment numbers given the limited adjustability of the eccentrics.
If the wheels have negative offset (compared to stock wheel offset) I suggest a little more toe and positive camber, but you basically want the tires to stand up straight after all factors are considered.
Lifted trucks tend to have too much positive camber and lowered trucks tend to have too much negative camber. My eccentrics are all at full tilt to give me the least negative camber possible and I still have a little negative camber. Some guys have reported the opposite with lifted trucks. The eccentrics are at full swing and they still have positive camber. Sometimes Upper control arms that place the ball joint in a different location from stock can rectify this, but I would attempt an alignment before buying the aftermarket UCAs. There is one case that I know of where aftermarket UCAs increased caster to the point that the truck didn't drive/steer correctly.

The main thing to consider on Gen2 Tundras is the extreme window of "green" allowed by Toyota specifications. You can achieve Toyota acceptable alignment numbers and have a terrible alignment. The guy doing the alignment needs to understand alignments, not just how to "make green" on the machine.

Hope this helps.

 

OK,
got left/right camber set at 0.10*
Cross caster is at -0.42*
total toe 0.15*

OEM TRD wheels with 295 65r18 Duratracs

50mi winding drive home was blissful

 

Cool!

 

Socal, here are my alignment numbers...let me know what you think and what needs to be fixed, if anything. Have to go back to the dealership tomorrow, so if it isn't right I am gonna have them make it right. Thanks again!!

 

Wowzers. The front tires must look like this \ / from the front. You'll definitely have wear issues with that much positive camber. Yeah, methinks a redo is in order. Your camber is nowhere near straight up and down and you don't have quite enough caster for it to drive right. It probably steers a little funny, yes?

 

Yeah, it seems to go all over the road. I didn't think it was right when I looked at the printout but didn't want to be talking out of my @ss. Going back to the dealer tomorrow. Amazing thing is I printed out what you said in reply 3 and gave it to them. I told them that I knew Toyota's acceptable ranges were very generous and that I didn't want them aligning to what the machine said was good. Thanks again for being so generous with your wealth of alignment knowledge!

 

Just trying to help out. Sometimes the machine will lead people on a wild goose chase. When this happens, the only thing to do is get it close by eyeballing it and start over. Older ford trucks that used coded upper ball joints are a good example. If you didn't have your head wrapped around what you were doing, the machine could really get you mixed up.
Don't be too hard on them. You still need them to do a good job for you.

 

Just got back from the dealership with the latest alignment. They did a much better job, but I'm not sure if it still needs to be better.

 

That's WAY better! I'd leave it there considering your tire/wheel combo.

 

Well if you say it is good, I will leave it alone. Thanks again for all of your help on this alignment issue!

 

Another educated and satisfied customer. Great job SoCal

 

Good info. I am glad I ran across this.

 

Donations of any amount accepted.

 

socal57chevy: Thanks for the good info! I have bilstein 5100 on top setting(2.5") in front, and LRO 1" block in rear. Should I go with same alignment specs? I'm also going to be putting on 305/55/20 tires soon. Do I need to use different alignment specs after I put the tires on? And lastly...If I decide to remove the rear blocks in the future. Do I need to realign the rear? Or will it be ok?

Thanks again for your help!

(OP: sorry I don't mean to high jack your thread. I figure we just keep in one instead of starting another one. And I'm sure other people will want the info/advice also)

 

These numbers are really just a "tighter" version of toyota's specs. Toyota allows WAY too much "wiggle room" in their specifications. These should work fine for you.

Your tire swap will be fine without doing another alignment.

Removing the rear axle block can allow the axle to shift and change your thrust angle. Basically your rear tires point in a little different direction. Rear axles almost never point 100% straight ahead, but if it pointed left and after removing the blocks it points right...well, you would need an alignment. No way to tell until you do it. If the steering wheel is not centered after you remove the rear blocks, have it realigned. If not, you're good.
Removing the blocks will add just a bit of caster, but not enough to make a difference. It would be like loading the bed until it sits an inch lower.

 

socal, I got my alignment done this weekend. Here are my specs, let me know what you think please. They were really nice and helpful and offered me to go back if adjustment is needed.

Camber FL: 0.2
Camber FR: 0.1

Caster FL: 1.5
Caster FR: 1.9

Toe FL: 0.16
Toe FR: 0.16

Cross camber: 0.1
Cross caster: -0.3
Cross SAI: -1.2
Total Toe: 0.32

 

Looks pretty good to me bro

 

More helpful info SoCal, thanks !

I'll print some of this out when the truck goes for the Bilsteins 5100 install.

I just picked up some week old TRD wheels this morning, &450. I little more $$ than I wanted to spend, but they look new, include: lugnuts, centers and the guys is mounting my tires on them for free. I'm hoping my OE TMPS sensor will fit. I think I read somewhere on TT that they would.

 

socal, I just sent you a pm that involves cash for information.
Hit me up.

 

PM replied, buddy. Just take him the entire PM.

 

Thanks Man. I appreciate the info.

 

good info...thank you!

 

Socal I literally printed off your specs word for word and handed it to the guy at planet truck this morning. He just photo copied them and said "no problem". Hopefully that's a good sign! Ha

 

I too will be doing the same thing. Thank a bunch SoCal.

Great Info!!!!!:beerchug:

 

I saw Goodvibessa's truck there when I dropped mine off. I don't know if he'd works at PT or if it was there having more work done. Either way seeing that thing in person is no joke, it's HUGGGEEEE and the roof rack coach builder fabbed up is nothing short of redonkulous.

 

Great thread, thanks for the info socal. :thumbsup:

I just installed a 2.5" Rough Country kit (front only; 2wd)

It drives fine, but I have some crazy positive camber.
Getting an alignment this week... hoping for he best.

 

Glad I saw this thread. I put a ReadyLift leveling kit on my 13 Rock Warrior 3 days ago and going in for alignment ASAP. Now I'm interested to see what my #'s are/will be.

 

so right now I have just a leveling kit and 20x9 wheels with .9 backspacing. had my tires rotated today and with only 2500 miles on them I could see the outer edge was already getting chewed up pretty good. in 2 weeks I have to get it aligned due to the fact im installing a zone 5"lift will the alignment specs you have posted earlier work for me with the same wheel offset and just bigger lift or would it be different. thanks in advance for your help

 

They will work fine browndiablo.

 

thankYou