I agree with you. While they aren't the best option, they are just fine for normal on-road usage. Its just you hear all the bad stories on here for the 100 good ones you don't hear.

 

For every 10 "good" reviews you hear, there are 100 other people that have no idea that they have front end issues either developing, or fully developed and causing problems that they have no idea stem from the spacer lift itself.


There are more different ideas on what we call off-roading than there are lift kit companies out there selling parts. One of the major flaws is the fact that most, like mentioned already here, are not for decent off road use.

One design draw back with the Tundra's / Tacoma's is that the front axles spin when not in 4wd. Throw a lift / leveling spacer in, and your front boots hate you a lot sooner. If the truck stays on street 99% of time, then the issue is not as prevalent (this applies to 2wd trucks too). The more the truck is used on rough asphalt roads, dirt roads or 4wd situations when you need it most you will have issues as the spacer will let the shock droop out past safe factory points.

Spacer lifts go against everything for a truck that gets used and abused. We do not sell spacer lifts here at SDHQ for all of the above reasons and many more. If a customer is worried about budget, we talk them into a 5100 Bilstein. Factory stroke is kept, keeping the CVs and boots happier for longer than a spacer kit could ever provide.

Some people complain about the ride of the 5100's saying that it is "stiffer" than stock and that the ride quality has diminished. This is not entirely true. The ride quality remains similar, as the factory coil spring is kept so the rate is the same. The issue comes from the top clip setting to "get the most out of the shock" lift wise. This limits the down travel from ride height to allow the wheel to fall into a hole and absorb the impact. The shock "tops out" faster than stock because you are closer to the pistons internal stop sitting at ride height. That internal stop is there for a reason, just like the stock Toyota shock, to stop over articulation of the factory suspension components (I.E. CV's and UCA).


All in all, there is no spacer that can do the job of the correct length shock. As you save pennies, never rule out the the true coilover option. We have hundreds of customers every year that are ecstatic in just the daily driver performance of a 2.5" internal resi coil, and happy that they didn't waste their time on a spacer lift.

 

Most of the bad reviews are from serious off roaders. For normal street use & back roads "off roading", they are just fine.

 

I want to meet the serious off roaders who are running a crewmax as their preferred offroad rig.

 

For the most part they get a bad rap from off roaders. That being said over time an older vehicle with spacers will begin having a harsher ride as the springs/shocks develop wear.

My DC is about to turn 100K. I've started to notice a harsher ride due to it needed fresh shocks and is nearly due for a set of tires. But until I drove the TRDPro I was completely happy with my spacer.

Don't go drive a coilover truck unless you're ready to spend $700+ for coilover

 

Your first mistake is making the assumption that the BDS kits, or any bracket lift kits, are good for off-road, they are not. The reason they are less prone to breaking suspension is because instead of completely altering the geometry like a spacer lift, they sell you the other parts that are needed to offset the spacers and get your geometry back near stock specs. Both bracket lifts and spacer lifts are all show and no go and both ride like dog crap.

Why doesn't Toyota just throw a spacer lift on the TRD Pro? Why doesn't Ford throw one on the Raptor? Because they suck. Don't confuse "off-road" with "rock crawling." There are plenty of guys on TT who are hard core off-roaders with their Tundra like Osidepunker, N2Deep and Dragos28. I don't run high speed Baja type stuff like they do but I can say I have driven my truck hard enough that I would have destroyed it if I were running a spacer or bracket lift.

 

There are a few types of off-roading. One is slow and crawling like in a Jeep type vehicle. Then you have the mudders with the big lifts and big tires. Then you have the woods type who are out on logging roads that see logs some rocks and mud. Then you have the desert type which is high speed sand/ rocks. So it depends on your terrain and how to build the truck to handle the terrain. Some build for looks and have seen a truck with a spacer collapse a shock coming off a street curb. That's why the first question I ask when someone ask about a lift is "How do you plan to use your truck?" Not how big you want to go or what is your budget. You need to build it as you will use it.
I have beat on my truck plenty and not really broken anything major yet but it is built to handle what I do.

 

Excellent and informative posts!!! A lot of people don't think about the limited travel/geometry change after installing spacers.

 

Excellent reply from SDHQ .
All you have to do is go to their shop and know they know what they are talking about.

Say no to spacer lifts

 

I don't consider myself an off-road enthusiast, but I do travel logging roads often. After having a 3" spacer lift on my truck for 1-1/2 years, the coil springs were getting beat-up from the UCA hitting at full droop. I don't drive like Ivan Steward down rough roads, so this damage is simply from driving normal. Here's a picture showing how the UCA gouged my coil spring.

Installing an aftermarket UCA might help is particular issue, but it won't address exaggerated droop angles on the CV.

 

soo funny, cause i called up ready lift and he assured me those very marks on mine were from the install process at full droop.

spacers can suck a big fat one. i just threw my whole readylift kit in the recycling bin

I don't consider myself an off-road enthusiast, but I do travel logging roads often. After having a 3" spacer lift on my truck for 1-1/2 years, the coil springs were getting beat-up from the UCA hitting at full droop. I don't drive like Ivan Steward down rough roads, so this damage is simply from driving normal. Here's a picture showing how the UCA gouged my coil spring.

Installing an aftermarket UCA might help is particular issue, but it won't address exaggerated droop angles on the CV.
View attachment 441729

 

Good info and like to see both sides. I went with 2.5" front and 1.5" rear spacers. I will be ordering bump stop extenders or longer stops to maintain factory travel limit up this week. I have not had a full droop issue yet but will jack it up after the new terra grapplers are installed next week and check the clearance to check the full extension.

 

I don't think that you comprehend the spacer issue to the full extent.


Your stock shock with a spacer on it will be the first thing to bottom out. You don't get any added "up travel" with spacers. You are simply moving the travel cycle down.

Added length to the bump stop will take some strain off of the shock assembly when bottoming out but you are not helping anything. You would be doing your truck more help by adding limit straps, or using the correct length shock with no spacer lift.

 

I was totally against spacer lifts till I got on this forum coming from tacoma world everyone had something bad to say about them and despised prettt much anyone with one so I went with a nice quality lift then traded it and got the tundra and realized why blow a bunch of money on a lift when it's never going to be used for what it's intended for. A spacer lift is great for normal everyday use if you wanna off road alot or something probably not the best option. So depending on what you are doing with the truck should be the deciding factor on what lift you buy.

 

If your concerned with CV at droop, drop the front diff with a diff drop. Even a coil over with more than 2" of lift should use a diff drop IMO.

Leveling Spacers
2" lift - OK
2.5" lift - Use Diff Drop
3.0" lift - I dont recomend as will more than likely crash UCA into coil over.

Dropping the diff will help some, but any lift / extended travel beyond stock will wear components quicker, regardless of coil over vs spacer.

Back to the original topic; subframe / knuckle style kits using spacers are only doing so to reduce the cost in order to cater to more customers. While not the best way to do it obviously, it does allow one to lift their truck at a reasonable cost. They are much different than a leveling spacer due to the fact that you are actually dropping the lower control arm with the subframe, then dropping the strut an equal, or similar distance, maintaining factory type angles on the control arms and CV's. Pre load spacers are used if additional ride height is needed, and / or to increase the spring rate of the coils in order to improve handling / decrease body roll.

The stock struts are barely adequate with a 6" Subframe / spacer type lift. They are just not valved for the larger wheel and tire combo's and the higher CG.

BTW, I do know alot of off roaders that have subfame kits on their trucks, but they are not what I consider hardcore. Hardcore, you need more than just good suspension.

 

I feel like there isnt anything to argue about.. Like SDHQ, N2Deep, and dissipator said.. Strut spacers are crap.. There is a reason you can get one for 90 bucks, you are not getting a quality lift.. I wont say its a bad quality part, its just a cheap way to fit bigger tires.. Plain and simple..

My pavement pounder sees asphalt 99.9% of the time, but to say the difference between a spacer and a full replacement strut/spring was noticeable would be putting it mildly..

 

A spacer lift will make your UCA/spindle (depending on first or second generation Tundra) smack the coil spring on full droop. I've removed (more like pried out) countless coilovers due to the uca/spindle being lodged into the spring from it drooping out while the truck is on a hoist while installing a different kit on the front end. I actually just did one two weeks ago. Wish I would have taken a pic of the upper part of the spindle lodged into the coil spring.

 

Seems like they should have shipped with limit straps that could have prevented that.

 

Because you cant do this with spacers:

https://youtu.be/jVG8y4kwAUY

I don't know if this is someone on TT.

 

Kinda of like putting lipstick on a pig, or a bandaid on a part that shouldn't be put on your truck in the first place. I doubt the guy buying the spacer lift will want to have a shop weld up limiting strap mounts for the clevis to the frame.

 

Pigs need lovin too.

 

I for one LOOOVE spacer lifts. I make A LOT of money fixing the suspensions on trucks that are using them...

 

Man I wish I knew all this before I put in a 3" front spacer when I first bought the truck. I have coachbuilder +2" shackles and it has the exact stance I want so getting the billstein 5100's wouldn't work because I'd only get 2" of lift from what I'm gathering. I'm gonna have to look into going another route but I can't sink a lot of $$ into it, at least not now. I don't do any off roading so I'm good for the time being I guess.

 

OME 612s are reasonable and they will get you right around 3" (maybe a bit more). 5100s will get you 2.5". Add a Coachbuilder shim and you're nearly at 3". Those are two decently priced options. I'm probably going with OMEs.

 

I think anytime you change the geometry by adding ANYTHING longer between the stock control arms you could and will have an issue. Be it droop or bump stops. I get it and my 2.5 spacer has not made my UCA hit the coil. Adding heavier tires alone can cause issues to a suspension. You need to control travel, preload, spring progression and dampening to effectively tune a suspension. I have years of experience messing with motocross suspension and it is an art sometimes. To do it "right" takes more than a coil over swap. That is just a suspension tune IMO. You should factor steering, sway bar if used, CV angle, total travel and many other factors guys smarter than me would add. Google search any rock crawler or Baja 1000 truck and you will see a real suspension. I am just a guy throwing on 2" taller tires, no more.

 

So with your ome lift and my +2's am I gonna have the Cali lean? That's why I bought the shackles, because my spacer alone gave me that look, which I can't stand.

 

More than likely you will. You could also get an aal.
Fl 40 5/8" Fr 41 3/8"
Rl 41 1/16 Rr 40 7/8"


those are my measurements from the ground to my fender flares

 

Yes I was referring to the ome 612. It seems to be one of the better options at a price I could afford.

 

You should be great then, you will not get more than 3" of front lift, likely a bit less and the +2 provide 1.25" of lift

 

^+100 to what SDHQ said. Most of the spacers I've taken off of trucks was due to the owner complaining of a "clunk" or "clang" when going over speed bumps over 5 mph. The UCA's tag the spring on second gens, and the upper part of the spindle smacks the spring on first gens.

 

So question....to get anything bigger than a 3" you have to go with a BDS, ProComp, etc., correct?

I have a 4.5" BDS on order...no off road unless I am going shooting in the hills which really doesn't fit my definition of "offroading". I wanted something slightly higher than 3"...I currently have an LRO spacer. Is the 4.5" BDS any better than the LRO 3" for the truck?

Last question...Is it beneficial to have coilovers made by King for the 4.5", and if yes, how much do they run?

 

There are other ways to get bigger than 3 inches. The ome setup with 614 springs is good for 3.5 inches. There are a few brands of coilovers that go to 3.5. Fat Bob's garage makes coilovers that go to 4 inches. Any of these would be better for your truck than the spacer lift you're running now. Readylift makes a 4 inch sst kit, but again it's a spacer lift. Same with the tuff country 4 inch. There are so many options for this truck it makes your head spin.

As for the bds being better for your truck than your spacer lift, in my opionion, yes it will be. Reason being is the drop brackets at least keep your geometry the same as stock. Lowered bump stops, lowered diff, etc. But having said that, I'm not a huge fan of bracket lifts. Ive installed dozens of them, and I just think they put unnecessary stress on all of the components. Trucks with bracket lifts in general seem to be very hard on ball joints, tie rods, bushings, etc. This could just as easily be a result of the big tires, but for me, I'm not a fan of the bracket lifts.

If it were me in your sitation, I'd probably go ome 614s with some good upper control arms. That will get you 3.5 inches of lift, enough to clear 35s with the right offset. And that stuff is so durable it'll be the last money you spend on your suspension. This setup will probably be less cost than the bds, and definetly easier to install.

 

Sorry to thread jack and for the long winded post. I'm Following this thread along with interest too. Just moved over from the 4Runner world and the 15 crewmax 4x4 I bought came with a spacer lift from the dealer that I'm replacing. They also installed 33" tires on aftermarket Gear 18x9 wheels that have a +18 offset I believe.

On my last 2 4runners I had a 5100 lift on one and a radflo lift on the other. With the tundra I ordered a full OME lift with 613 on front and the Dakar springs for rear with the tread able shackles/bushings. I also ordered a set of camburg BJ UCA for the front.

I ordered the above based on the fact that I have a 230lb non-winch bumper going on the front (with bike rack from time to time) and a 31' travel trailer in tow regularly. Want to do a rear bumper and sliders eventually too.

I have not experienced OME ride since 2001 on a Land Rover and back then it seemed fine. That said, I really don't know what to expect regarding ride and performance but am hoping the result is improved over the spacer lift and maintains a similar amount of lift.

Would love any input or feedback as I planned to get started installing this weekend (UCAs should be here soon as they are on order)

 

In my opinion, OME is the best you can get for the money... It's made by ARB, which speaks volumes.

My 614s are beasts. I've said this a hundred times and I'll say it again- I beat the crap out of these things and they just don't seem to care.

You'll love the 613s. The ride will be firm, but not horrible.

Enjoy!!

 

Can somebody answer my questions from a couple posts ago? I feel lost!

 

The ICONs I have for sale go to 3.5 inches

2007 - Current Tundra Front Coil-over Shock Kit - ICON Vehicle Dynamics