I know one person on here is running 37's on a 2" lift. Just had to do a little trimming.


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@KevinK

 

Why would you want to do that? The proper lift needed to clear 37s out of your budget? You'll also want to regear to run 37s.

 

You didn't do much searching lol but to answer your question yes you can. Running OME 613 (3.5" of lift) with CB +3" shackle and Toytec Deaver AAL in the rear (~3" of lift in the rear) with Cooper STT Pro 37/12.5r17 on Rock Warrior rims. Will require a body mount chop and grinding of the pinch weld seam under the wheel well liner.

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You didn't do much searching lol but to answer your question yes you can. Running OME 613 (3.5" of lift) with CB +3" shackle and Toytec Deaver AAL in the rear (~3" of lift in the rear) with Cooper STT Pro 37/12.5r17 on Rock Warrior rims. Will require a body mount chop and grinding of the pinch weld seam under the wheel well liner.

Your truck looks great!

Do you notice losing a lot of downtravel with a 3.5" strut lift? Seems like you'd top out (hit full droop) a lot offroad. Also, do you rub at all now when you hit bumps on turns?

 

@bigsapz Why would I want to do that? Because I don't want a huge mall crawler 6+ inch lift to fit 37s. I want bigger tires for more ground clearance, while keeping my center of gravity low. Doing that will make for a much better truck on the trails than an Eiffel Tower on wheels.

 

I've never heard of that much chopping just to fit large tires without running a full mid/long travel kit. You have videos showcasing your articulation? Can't imagine it's better than 6 inches of lift.

 

@Mini Madness, damn that's a good looking truck! I need 37's STAT!

 

Of course I don't have much better or as much articulation as someone with a long travel or a 6in lift. I'm not even talking about articulation. I'm talking about keeping the center of gravity low so I don't flip on really off camber trails. I don't do a metric **** ton of flexing with my truck anyways. I don't want to push it too hard in that area since tundras have an open c in the back.

 

A coilover lifts are the only lifts that gives you more suspension travel equaling in more flex. Bracket lifts which are usually 4", 5", 6"..etc don't give you more travel but just shifts the travel you have stock down. A bracket lift only benefits of having higher clearance between axles but youre clearance between your 2 front wheels and 2 rear wheels are no better than stock. So basically youre not getting extra travel and youre lifting the C.G. so youre more liking to roll and flip off roading (mudding and dirt roads are not off roading). I would have to say the Tundra has one of the biggest wheel wells and requires the least amount of cutting to fit larger tires.

Also regearing for 37s is really unnecessary there is more than enough power and torque to get up and going

 

Also regearing for 37s is really unnecessary there is more than enough power and torque to get up and going

I've been in a 3rd Gen Tundra with 37s on stock gears on a trail in Sedona, AZ and the rear blew out an hr into the trail. Waited 3hrs in 106 degree heat for a tow.

RE-GEAR OP

Of course I don't have much better or as much articulation as someone with a long travel or a 6in lift. I'm not even talking about articulation. I'm talking about keeping the center of gravity low so I don't flip on really off camber trails. I don't do a metric **** ton of flexing with my truck anyways. I don't want to push it too hard in that area since tundras have an open c in the back.

What good is lower center of gravity if can't even go over a speed bump without the tires hitting the wheel wells? I could understand to fit 295/70s or a more functional tire size but this whole concept of squeezing 37s seems more for mall crawling (avoiding the speed bumps, lol) than actual function. Sure it can be done, just don't see why. To each their own I guess. [emoji106]

 

I understand that a lift doesn't give any more articulation or suspension travel, its just moving your suspension lower. However, I do not want more travel. I just want some decent size tires so my diff is a little higher off the ground and so that the tires look semi proportionate to the truck lol. But yeah, I realize that if I wanted to make a serious rig I could do a boat load of modifications to the truck, but I'm not all that interested in that. Some people have the desire and money to make trail beasts out of their Tundras, but I don't haha. My truck is my daily driver that I take out on some intermediate trails on the weekends. I'm just looking to build a well rounded and practical truck that I can use on and off-road. You know what I mean?

 

Oh wasn't really referring to you as I think youre on the right path as to a lift that's just tall enough to fit the biggest tire possible.

 

@KevinK is running 37's on a 3" coilover lift. he mobs his truck as hard as any of us other mid/long travel guys.
check out his profile i'm sure you'll see where he posted his modifications to make the 37s clear.

 

Really? I'll definitely have to check that out.

 

i'll probably go 37s also
but for now my 35s have less than a few thousand miles on them so when they are done i'll go up a size.

 

the benefit i see to the 37s is the ability to roll over bigger rocks/boulders easier. sure there is some gained ground clearance. however, even with 35s, i still rub on full compression when the wheels are turned. i've actually ripped off my external reservoir on my front bypasses when i took a hard hit with the wheels turned.

so im not 100% sold on the 37s yet...

 

i dont believe i can run my setup without the spacers, otherwise i'll hit the bypasses

 

Move the bypasses! Haha!

Must be time for triples.....


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And this is KevinK's awesome report on fitting 37s. Not to be missed! http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...t/forums/tundra-build-logs/373353-kevinks-2014-doublecab-5-7-ffv-4x4-trd-5.html

KevinK, what are your thoughts on the wheel offset? You used +25, would a little higher like +30, +35 be better in some way, or a little lower like +18 +12? Tradeoffs? +25 does look pretty ideal on your truck.

 

And this is KevinK's awesome report on fitting 37s. Not to be missed! http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...t/forums/tundra-build-logs/373353-kevinks-2014-doublecab-5-7-ffv-4x4-trd-5.html



KevinK, what are your thoughts on the wheel offset? You used +25, would a little higher like +30, +35 be better in some way, or a little lower like +18 +12? Tradeoffs? +25 does look pretty ideal on your truck.

You could get away with a little higher offset (tire closer to UCAs) but we didn't because we're running a 13.5" wide tire and would hit the UCA. A little less offset is probably not gonna make it with a 13.5" wide tire. Maybe with a 12.5" it could work.

Nice vid man. Looks fun but, are you running an AT 37? Less meat then a MT. Would an MT not fit? More importantly, you're rubbing LIKE CRAZY going thru that trail. Your tires will DEFINITELY wear prematurely with that setup.

Everything I've said is 100% CORRECT.

Just because you CAN do something, doesn't necessarily mean you SHOULD. To each their own. I'd rather have better performance, clearance and articulaton without sacrificing all the up travel with this setup. There are other ways to retain a low COG.

The AT is dimensionally identical to an MT. An MT just looks chunkier. We chose AT because we actually use the truck for stuff other than the mall. No matter how many miles you log offroad, you still have to drive on the street to get there unless you're truck is trailered. I like MT tires, they just don't suit our purpose, and we've never been stuck with an AT where an MT didn't also get stuck.

I'm not sure where you think we're rubbing in the video, but you can ask anyone who's wheeled with us, it's not rubbing anywhere. It did rub on the rear plastic before I cut off the little nub it was hitting, but that was before this video was shot, so there is zero rub in the vid.

I said you were wrong because you said there is no reason to keep the COG low with large tire. That is the exact opposite of what you want offroad. Most trophy trucks and even rock crawlers technically have a lower ride height than stock. The just stuff massive rubber underneath which makes it look tall.

We're lifted 2" with a proper coil over and have lost no articulation. So, again, wrong but I can understand where the misconception would come from. A spacer lift, or a lift that adds preload in order to gain lift will reduce the amount of uptravel that is possible. That's not what we did. We have different coils and different shocks, so we actually gained about 1/2" up and 1/2" droop.

Like you said, to each their own, and I'd be lying if I said that trucks with monster lifts don't look cool - they do. But that's all they do. I also mean no offense by saying you're wrong, it's just a very common misconception and something I strive to correct when I talk to people about what is possible with a Tundra.



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KevinK and anyone running 37's

@KevinK Hey man, everyone is turning to you, and everyone seems to have differing opinions. What's yours please? I'm getting tires next week and 90% sure I'm getting 37x12.50r20's. I 100% want them! Probably the Cooper STT Pros cause I've heard they weigh less. I have a 14 with PC 6' stage 1.
Do you think I need to regear? I'm not going to so if I do I'll do 35's
I don't do any hard off roading, only drive through fields at farm. Thanks for input!

 

@KevinK Hey man, everyone is turning to you, and everyone seems to have differing opinions. What's yours please? I'm getting tires next week and 90% sure I'm getting 37x12.50r20's. I 100% want them! Probably the Cooper STT Pros cause I've heard they weigh less. I have a 14 with PC 6' stage 1.
Do you think I need to regear? I'm not going to so if I do I'll do 35's
I don't do any hard off roading, only drive through fields at farm. Thanks for input!

I have no reason to regear at this time. I can still smoke the tires, so if the engine is able to overcome the coefficient of friction between the tire and the road, there's no reason to regear.

Yes, you're going to feel a little less 'oomph' off the line, but just give it more throttle or use that 'tow/haul' button.

We drive back and forth to California from Arizona to go wheeling and we also go to northern AZ which is like a 7000 foot climb or more. We pass pretty much everything on the road with ease.

I'm not sure why everyone whines about needing gears for 37s. We're not ****in drag racing here. If you stoplight race on the steeet, then yeah, regear. But if you drive like a relatively normal human (I drive like an asshole everywhere I go) then there's no reason to regear. 110mph is no problem. In Mexico of course. Never try this on I10 between Phoenix and LA on your way to Big Bear...

Also, gas mileage:
Take the mileage you get on the new 37s and multiply it by 1.15 to find the actual number of miles you travel per gallon. I posted something on here someplace about the misconception of ruined gas mileage by going to 35 or 37s too. Lots of math. Basically it's this - when the truck thinks you drove a mile, you actually drove further, so you're getting better mileage than the computer or your longhand math is telling you.


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@Mini Madness please read above question on previous page I wrote to @KevinK, basically want to ask your opinion too on 37's and if I need to regear. I really appreciate ur opinion and help

 

I agree with KevinK that regearing on 37s is not needed. I notice a slight difference in acceleration and gears shifting points but honestly our trucks have MORE than enough power to turn these tires. If I punch it I still can chase people down without an issue...am I going to win a race probably not. Just daily driving and offroading I've never felt like I NEEDED 4.88 gears. Also to throw it out there my mileage is actually still pretty good with 37s in the city I can get 11 to 12 mpg and on the hwy I can get 14 mpg. Note that I'm running Cooper STT Pro M/T 37/12.5r17 on Rock Warrio Rims with an offset of +31mm to just clear my LR SPC UCA.

However I should note that I will be regearing soon to 4.88s not bc I NEED them but I'm going to be installing an ARB Air Locker in the rear and thought while they have the whole thing torn apart might as well regear.

 

THIS is the proper way to run 37s IMO. http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=597449

 

To each their own but for ground clearance purposes that lift doesn't do much, and you weaken the front end by inducing leverage in the lower a arm area. Unless you run kicker bars which also limit ground clearance to some degree.

I'm not an off road expert but if you look at a bracket lifted truck on 37's and a 3" coilover lifted truck on 37's with trimming side by side, you will easily be able to tell which will work better off road. Just based on points that will hang on stuff and take forces at different directions while driving. The general consensus is bracket for looks, coilover for performance.


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@KevinK @Mini Madness I DID IT GUYS! I got the 37's on yesterday and am all set after a little plastic trimming. It still has plenty of power for me and still shifts smooth.
37x12.50 Cooper Cooper STT Pro's = $1,450
7 quart synthetic oil change = $65
The same feeling I had when I drove my new lifted Tundra the very first time = PRICELESS!

 

and making this post without posting a pic.
WORTHLESS

:nerd:

 

Another pic of 37's

Here's another pic of the 37's, I can't post more than one pic at time from my iPad, if anyone knows how to? I'd love to learn!

 

Jswai144, Open C-channel is built exactly for that purpose; better flexibility with less stress on the welds and seams. A boxed-in frame will do fine for awhile but after a lot of flexing will start to show stress wear sooner than an open C channel.

 

Hey bigsapz ,
If you blow a Tundra 10.5 rear end, you've have accomplished something. I suspect it was seeing a lot of unnecessary stress prior to and during the 37" tire installation. I hear guys all the time talk about how they blew out a rear end and I wonder what their driving habits are like. I guess I could blow mine out if I drove like I see some of these folks drive ALL the time. FYI, I'm not one of those guys who drifts in a full-size truck with 35" tires; nor am I punching it every traffic light just to hear the exhaust. Nothing against folks who do that, but truthfully it ain't doing your drivetrain any favors. Just my two cents.

 

It's a trail only truck actually. Not registered to run on the street and doesn't. It's in storage when it's not on trips. This was about 2 years ago and he's since upgraded to the 4.88s and has zero issues. The way it felt when it went out definitely felt like gearing was a factor. Grinding then spinning. Rode 35s for 5+ years without issues. Could just be general wear but he's not rock climbing every trip. Mods thru streams and shit hunting and fishing. Stuff like that.

 

Sorry I dropped off this thread like a fat kid distracted by Oreos....

Glad to see everything is working out awesome though!

 

Im about to pull the trigger and get a set of 37x12.5r17. They will be matched with the icon six speed wheels +25. I wanted to hear updates on the people running them with coilovers. Have you solved the rear wheel well liner rubbing? Im about to bring the truck in for a BMC and grind down the pinch weld seam. Anything else I should have done as far as metal work goes? Ill be running a high clearance bumper.
thanks

 

Pretty sure you'll have to also remove the front sway bar

 

yep,sway bar has already been removed. The only rubbing I keep reading about is the rear wheel well liner. But since Im not any good at working on metal, I thought Id ask how everyone else has fixed this issue. Or if any other issues have come up running the 37s.

 

set up just came in! installing next week after bmc chop and getting the pinch weld seam ground down.

 

What kind of tires?