I've never heard of that much chopping just to fit large tires without running a full mid/long travel kit. You have videos showcasing your articulation? Can't imagine it's better than 6 inches of lift.@bigsapz Why would I want to do that? Because I don't want a huge mall crawler 6+ inch lift to fit 37s. I want bigger tires for more ground clearance, while keeping my center of gravity low. Doing that will make for a much better truck on the trails than an Eiffel Tower on wheels.
Your truck looks great!You didn't do much searching lol but to answer your question yes you can. Running OME 613 (3.5" of lift) with CB +3" shackle and Toytec Deaver AAL in the rear (~3" of lift in the rear) with Cooper STT Pro 37/12.5r17 on Rock Warrior rims. Will require a body mount chop and grinding of the pinch weld seam under the wheel well liner.
Oh wasn't really referring to you as I think youre on the right path as to a lift that's just tall enough to fit the biggest tire possible.I understand that a lift doesn't give any more articulation or suspension travel, its just moving your suspension lower. However, I do not want more travel. I just want some decent size tires so my diff is a little higher off the ground and so that the tires look semi proportionate to the truck lol. But yeah, I realize that if I wanted to make a serious rig I could do a boat load of modifications to the truck, but I'm not all that interested in that. Some people have the desire and money to make trail beasts out of their Tundras, but I don't haha. My truck is my daily driver that I take out on some intermediate trails on the weekends. I'm just looking to build a well rounded and practical truck that I can use on and off-road. You know what I mean?
To answer your question yes you do lose down travel, in reference to stock, which is kinda the nature of lifting with coilover but you do get more overall droop than stock so you do get more net wheel travel. My truck isn't geared for high speed Baja style but more technical/rock crawling/ overland. Living in Houston, Texas theres not any really large flat places you can take a truck and do high speed runs. I would never jump this truck so full compression would never be achieved. With the body mount cut and pinch weld grind I get zero rubbing at full lock turning and at off roading with the full weight of the truck sitting on the front wheels. I do get rubbing in the rear as it does most of the flexing when off roading...which I just need to remover the rear wheel liner.Your truck looks great!
Do you notice losing a lot of downtravel with a 3.5" strut lift? Seems like you'd top out (hit full droop) a lot offroad. Also, do you rub at all now when you hit bumps on turns?
I've been in a 3rd Gen Tundra with 37s on stock gears on a trail in Sedona, AZ and the rear blew out an hr into the trail. Waited 3hrs in 106 degree heat for a tow.Also regearing for 37s is really unnecessary there is more than enough power and torque to get up and going
What good is lower center of gravity if can't even go over a speed bump without the tires hitting the wheel wells? I could understand to fit 295/70s or a more functional tire size but this whole concept of squeezing 37s seems more for mall crawling (avoiding the speed bumps, lol) than actual function. Sure it can be done, just don't see why. To each their own I guess.Of course I don't have much better or as much articulation as someone with a long travel or a 6in lift. I'm not even talking about articulation. I'm talking about keeping the center of gravity low so I don't flip on really off camber trails. I don't do a metric **** ton of flexing with my truck anyways. I don't want to push it too hard in that area since tundras have an open c in the back.
Regearing would have not saved him from blowing his dif as the gears only help you get your torque and power back to the factory band. The stress and loads are the same on your drivetrain regardless if you regear or not it doesn't just disappear.I've been in a 3rd Gen Tundra with 37s on stock gears on a trail in Sedona, AZ and the rear blew out an hr into the trail. Waited 3hrs in 106 degree heat for a tow.
What good is lower center of gravity if can't even go over a speed bump without the tires hitting the wheel wells? I could understand to fit 295/70s or a more functional tire size but this whole concept of squeezing 37s seems more for mall crawling (avoiding the speed bumps, lol) than actual function. Sure it can be done, just don't see why. To each their own I guess.
Nah, the gears being too weak to haul the tires and truck load in those conditions was a major contributing factor. A 2nd gen with 4.88s and 165k miles on it had zero issues that day. The transmission is fine, the front was straining as well. He put 4.88s in front and back and was good to go a week and a half later. No other issues since.Regearing would have not saved him from blowing his dif as the gears only help you get your torque and power back to the factory band. The stress and loads are the same on your drivetrain regardless if you regear or not it doesn't just disappear.
Did your friend gun it a lot? Maybe causing the rear end to jump and the wheels loosing and gaining traction?
A speed bump is not going to cause you to bottom out on 37s not sure where youre getting your information from. The whole point is the gain clearance...well where is the lowest clearance on the truck? Your differential and the only way to lift it is to increase tire size.