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Discussion Starter #1
Could you fit 37s on a 2014+ tundra with an aftermarket bumper and a 3/1 lift? I feel like with the lift and a good off road bumper you wouldnt rub up front, but what about at the back of the front tires? Anyone know?
 

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Why would you want to do that? The proper lift needed to clear 37s out of your budget? You'll also want to regear to run 37s.
 

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You didn't do much searching lol but to answer your question yes you can. Running OME 613 (3.5" of lift) with CB +3" shackle and Toytec Deaver AAL in the rear (~3" of lift in the rear) with Cooper STT Pro 37/12.5r17 on Rock Warrior rims. Will require a body mount chop and grinding of the pinch weld seam under the wheel well liner.


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@Mini Madness, damn that's a good looking truck! I need 37's STAT!
 

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@bigsapz Why would I want to do that? Because I don't want a huge mall crawler 6+ inch lift to fit 37s. I want bigger tires for more ground clearance, while keeping my center of gravity low. Doing that will make for a much better truck on the trails than an Eiffel Tower on wheels.
I've never heard of that much chopping just to fit large tires without running a full mid/long travel kit. You have videos showcasing your articulation? Can't imagine it's better than 6 inches of lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Of course I don't have much better or as much articulation as someone with a long travel or a 6in lift. I'm not even talking about articulation. I'm talking about keeping the center of gravity low so I don't flip on really off camber trails. I don't do a metric **** ton of flexing with my truck anyways. I don't want to push it too hard in that area since tundras have an open c in the back.
 

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A coilover lifts are the only lifts that gives you more suspension travel equaling in more flex. Bracket lifts which are usually 4", 5", 6"..etc don't give you more travel but just shifts the travel you have stock down. A bracket lift only benefits of having higher clearance between axles but youre clearance between your 2 front wheels and 2 rear wheels are no better than stock. So basically youre not getting extra travel and youre lifting the C.G. so youre more liking to roll and flip off roading (mudding and dirt roads are not off roading). I would have to say the Tundra has one of the biggest wheel wells and requires the least amount of cutting to fit larger tires.

Also regearing for 37s is really unnecessary there is more than enough power and torque to get up and going
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I understand that a lift doesn't give any more articulation or suspension travel, its just moving your suspension lower. However, I do not want more travel. I just want some decent size tires so my diff is a little higher off the ground and so that the tires look semi proportionate to the truck lol. But yeah, I realize that if I wanted to make a serious rig I could do a boat load of modifications to the truck, but I'm not all that interested in that. Some people have the desire and money to make trail beasts out of their Tundras, but I don't haha. My truck is my daily driver that I take out on some intermediate trails on the weekends. I'm just looking to build a well rounded and practical truck that I can use on and off-road. You know what I mean?
 

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You didn't do much searching lol but to answer your question yes you can. Running OME 613 (3.5" of lift) with CB +3" shackle and Toytec Deaver AAL in the rear (~3" of lift in the rear) with Cooper STT Pro 37/12.5r17 on Rock Warrior rims. Will require a body mount chop and grinding of the pinch weld seam under the wheel well liner.
Your truck looks great!

Do you notice losing a lot of downtravel with a 3.5" strut lift? Seems like you'd top out (hit full droop) a lot offroad. Also, do you rub at all now when you hit bumps on turns?
 

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I understand that a lift doesn't give any more articulation or suspension travel, its just moving your suspension lower. However, I do not want more travel. I just want some decent size tires so my diff is a little higher off the ground and so that the tires look semi proportionate to the truck lol. But yeah, I realize that if I wanted to make a serious rig I could do a boat load of modifications to the truck, but I'm not all that interested in that. Some people have the desire and money to make trail beasts out of their Tundras, but I don't haha. My truck is my daily driver that I take out on some intermediate trails on the weekends. I'm just looking to build a well rounded and practical truck that I can use on and off-road. You know what I mean?
Oh wasn't really referring to you as I think youre on the right path as to a lift that's just tall enough to fit the biggest tire possible.
 

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Your truck looks great!

Do you notice losing a lot of downtravel with a 3.5" strut lift? Seems like you'd top out (hit full droop) a lot offroad. Also, do you rub at all now when you hit bumps on turns?
To answer your question yes you do lose down travel, in reference to stock, which is kinda the nature of lifting with coilover but you do get more overall droop than stock so you do get more net wheel travel. My truck isn't geared for high speed Baja style but more technical/rock crawling/ overland. Living in Houston, Texas theres not any really large flat places you can take a truck and do high speed runs. I would never jump this truck so full compression would never be achieved. With the body mount cut and pinch weld grind I get zero rubbing at full lock turning and at off roading with the full weight of the truck sitting on the front wheels. I do get rubbing in the rear as it does most of the flexing when off roading...which I just need to remover the rear wheel liner.

 

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Also regearing for 37s is really unnecessary there is more than enough power and torque to get up and going
I've been in a 3rd Gen Tundra with 37s on stock gears on a trail in Sedona, AZ and the rear blew out an hr into the trail. Waited 3hrs in 106 degree heat for a tow.

RE-GEAR OP



Of course I don't have much better or as much articulation as someone with a long travel or a 6in lift. I'm not even talking about articulation. I'm talking about keeping the center of gravity low so I don't flip on really off camber trails. I don't do a metric **** ton of flexing with my truck anyways. I don't want to push it too hard in that area since tundras have an open c in the back.
What good is lower center of gravity if can't even go over a speed bump without the tires hitting the wheel wells? I could understand to fit 295/70s or a more functional tire size but this whole concept of squeezing 37s seems more for mall crawling (avoiding the speed bumps, lol) than actual function. Sure it can be done, just don't see why. To each their own I guess.
 

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I've been in a 3rd Gen Tundra with 37s on stock gears on a trail in Sedona, AZ and the rear blew out an hr into the trail. Waited 3hrs in 106 degree heat for a tow.

RE-GEAR OP

What good is lower center of gravity if can't even go over a speed bump without the tires hitting the wheel wells? I could understand to fit 295/70s or a more functional tire size but this whole concept of squeezing 37s seems more for mall crawling (avoiding the speed bumps, lol) than actual function. Sure it can be done, just don't see why. To each their own I guess.
Regearing would have not saved him from blowing his dif as the gears only help you get your torque and power back to the factory band. The stress and loads are the same on your drivetrain regardless if you regear or not it doesn't just disappear.

Did your friend gun it a lot? Maybe causing the rear end to jump and the wheels loosing and gaining traction?

A speed bump is not going to cause you to bottom out on 37s not sure where youre getting your information from. The whole point is the gain clearance...well where is the lowest clearance on the truck? Your differential and the only way to lift it is to increase tire size.
 

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Regearing would have not saved him from blowing his dif as the gears only help you get your torque and power back to the factory band. The stress and loads are the same on your drivetrain regardless if you regear or not it doesn't just disappear.

Did your friend gun it a lot? Maybe causing the rear end to jump and the wheels loosing and gaining traction?

A speed bump is not going to cause you to bottom out on 37s not sure where youre getting your information from. The whole point is the gain clearance...well where is the lowest clearance on the truck? Your differential and the only way to lift it is to increase tire size.
Nah, the gears being too weak to haul the tires and truck load in those conditions was a major contributing factor. A 2nd gen with 4.88s and 165k miles on it had zero issues that day. The transmission is fine, the front was straining as well. He put 4.88s in front and back and was good to go a week and a half later. No other issues since.

I'm just trying to understand the logic behind 37s on only a 3 inch lift. Lower COG doesn't seem like a legit enough reason to run that setup. This is just my .02. I'm not a doctor.
 
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