I'm betting the previous owner knew about this and just reset the ECU by pulling the neg battery cable.

 

This is the kind of crap that has made me buy only new since 1988... :laugh:

 

That was my suspicion since I bought it from a semi-shady used car dealer. However, it also came with a 1000 mile warranty, so they must have been hoping it wouldn't come up before then. When I scanned it, the code was in the memory 4 times. I don't think that's an indication that someone tried to clear it, but maybe.

The actual PO was a 75yo guy who bought the truck new and traded it in. It ultimately got passed around a few dealers before ending up with me.

It's at the Toyota dealer today for repair. They said it's pretty routine at this point. Do they just replace the faulty part(s), or will they replace the whole system?

 

Just the part. Did the code come up as valves, or pumps?

 

"valve stuck closed" on bank 1

 

I hate to say this, but you might have been better off to install a bypass kit instead. If the dealer does an ECU reflash on it while he's fixing the valve then you won't be able to use the current generation of bypass kits.

 

I had read that, and definitely thought about it. I'll still have 60k on the warranty after this, so hopefully if it happens again, it happens by then.

The service guy said it was a $2600 job if not under warranty, so I'm guessing he replaced more than just a faulty valve. I'll find out more later I guess.

 

Just make sure you leave a big note on the steering wheel. "NO RE FLASH OF ECU!"

 

Friend of mine in Idaho had a 2014 or so VW TDI Jetta, took it in for some issue unrelated to the emission scandal, the dealer reflashed the ECU, never asked him for permission, never told him they even did it. He noticed immediately that the car was running like crap and took it back. They copped to the reflash and told him that company rules wouldn't allow them to put it back to "stock". Once he received his settlement from VW he stopped driving it on the street instead he used it as a desert pre runner, he slapped a sticker on the bumper that said "momentum is everything..." He said he lost over 9 mpg after the reflash, no more VAG cars for him.

 

So according to the work order, they did the following:

Remove and replace air injection, switching valve, pump and inlet/inlet cover.

- 4 hours labor @ $112
- 2 clips @ $4.60
- 2 air pump assemblies @ 555.96
- 1 valve set @ 333.98
- 1 air pump inlet @ $40
- 2 air tube gaskets @ $2.53
- 2 air tube gaskets @ $3.94
- 2 manifold gaskets @ 16.06

Parts total was $1540.16, labor total was $448. Total cost was/would have been $1988.16.

If it's of any use to anyone, I can post the work order with part numbers, etc.

 

This is exactly what they did on mine yesterday. My total was also about $2000 paid by Toyota. I have an 07 with 115K miles on it. The truck is 9.5 years old, so I came in just under the warranty period. The service guy I talked to, who has been there for many years, said he has seen hundreds of these trucks in for this same repair over the last several years. But he told me that he has never seen a truck in for a second failure of the same system.

I know a lot of people here say that they just replace it with the same crappy system and it fails again after a couple more years but I'm hoping the service guy is right and that it gets fixed more times than not. HOPING! :crying:

I have one of those OBD 2 scan tools where you can shut off the dash lights in your vehicle. What I was wondering is, if this system fails again, and the dash lights come back on, can you use the OBD 2 tool to prevent it from going into "limp" mode temporarily by shutting off the dash lights, in order to get your truck to the shop?

 

and again it's absolutely lame that toyota needs this shit ass system for 30 seconds at start up to meet emissions, the others don't need it on their large engines

way too much risk of a repair that is stupid expensive

 

It only runs for 30 seconds?

 

The pumps run for 30 seconds only on a cold start. The latest version (new reflash) also runs for a few seconds after the truck is shut off.

 

You can do that, but the shop/ dealer needs the codes to verify what is wrong. If you clear the codes, the dealer won't know what part of the system is bad.

If I was on a trip, I would clear the codes and continue my trip. The truck will pop those codes eventually after you got home.

 

 

Is there any way to tell if the truck has had the ECM flash/update that wont allow the bypass to work?

 

The easiest way is to sign up on the Toyota Owners.com website, enter the VIN and check to see what service has been performed by the dealer.

Hint: You do not need to own the vehicle to obtain the service records of the vehicle.

All service performed by a dealer will be entered. Since the flash has to be done by a dealer, it will tell you if has been done or not

 

Could this be it?

 

I'm pretty sure that's it.

You can verify by listening to see if the air pumps run after the engine is turned off.