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I recommend doing a "strainer" replacement if you are dropping the pan. The dealer was so intent on just cleaning it out in a parts washer. I didn't know what it looked like so I was hesitant on dropping that kinda coin on a filter if it wasn't a filter. But I'm glad I bought it after I opened the package.
 
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For what it's worth.

My friend and I spent 8 hours last Saturday accomplishing this on a 2010 New England truck.

The good, strainer replace, pan dropping and fluid swap went smooth. About 2 hours had things gone smooth.

The bad
Broke 7 of the 12 pan bolts off.
Had to drill and tap them and it took about 45-60 minutes per bolt.

Lessons learned.

Approx 5 are blind holes, rest are through bolts ( threads exposed on side opposite head).

To do this again I would have dremeled off exposed threads opposite heads. Flush with aluminum housing. Using a cut off wheel and going slowly.
(Again 5 year old New England truck, plenty of rust on these bolts, you guys down south are probably fine).

Then I would have pb blaster or equal the opposite side of bolt heads a few days before doing work.

I'd also purchase replacement bolts grade 8 and antisieze the threads before starting.

Further I' wrap ( used a head key socket the the bolt heads before loosening.)

Make sure you go slow and are ready to drill tap or helicoil if you break bolts. If these terms are foreign to you make sure you have a buddy whom can help.

Also remember return line on radiator means the metal nipple not rubber hose. (Completely my fault lack of thinking on that one).

I used a few ace hardware hose barbs to run Tygon from hood to fill plug.
Also valvoline max life ws fluid from Walmart.

Cheapest place to buy synethic oil in New England by about 25%.

This truck is new to me and I'd assume at 90k this was the first flush strainer swap. Everything fluid wise looked still pretty good.

I replaced the silicone gasket and needed too since some of the bolt dowels stayed on the bolts and not in the gasket. If this is regularly maintained you can probably reuse.

Good luck
 
I finally did my second fluid change the other night. The first one was at 60k, I'm up to 147K now and have been to busy to get to it. Lately it's been shifting at higher RPMs as if it's in tow/haul mode.

Anyway, I popped the line off at the cooler, connected some 1/2" tubing to it for the drain bucket, drained the pan, removed the pan, cleaned the pan & magnets, replaced the gasket & filter and put the pan back on. I ran some 1/2" tubing with a small piece of 3/8" rigid tubing wedged in it down behind the engine and into the fill plug. I hung my funnel off the hood, poured in 5 quarts, put the bypass pin in, started up the engine till the pump pulled out 4 quarts, poured more in, pumped more out, poured more in, pumped more out until it come out clean. Got 13 quarts in and a a little over 12 quarts out. Great, this was easy! I start the truck up and let it run to heat up the fluid, get the laptop to hook up techstream, 8 mintues later I'm up to 115F. I pull the overflow plug and about 3-4 quarts come out into the pan. WTF?? I put the plug back in, try to put it in gear...nothing! Won't move in R or D. At this point I'm out of fluid and what's in the pan is mixed in with oil. F Me!

Next morning, I run out and get more fluid. Top it off with a couple quarts, put in R, it works, D, it works. Great! Clean up my mess, take it for a drive, everything seems to shift fine. I go back home and head out an hour later. I get to the stop light down the road, light turns green, I GO, all of a sudden from first to second, it misses then catches with a loud clunk and chirps the tires. WTF? I get to the next intersection, slowly pull out, first to second shifts fine. I tried it out at a couple more spots and when the RPM was higher, it would stall then jerk into second. However. every other gear worked fine. I ended up driving home and letting it sit until the next day.

I was completely perplexed. What if there was dirt in there and I waited to long to change the fluid? I hope that this doesn't cost a fortune to fix. Where the hell am I going to take it to get it fixed. Wait, why did so much fluid come out of the overflow?

After I finally calmed down, I figured the best thing to do was to start from scratch. Last night I drained the pan into a bucket, got about 4 quarts out of it and another 1.5 quarts from the pan. I checked for possible crimped or loose wires, pulled the filter and realized it didn't look like it was seated right, it looked bowed on the one side. I put the filter back on, making sure the o-ring was seated properly and the collars were seated flush when I put the screws in. I put the pan back on and filled it up until some came out the overflow. I started it up, put it into gear, R worked, D worked. Great! I left it run, pulled out the laptop, got it up to 115, pulled the overflow plug...nothing. I added another quart, still nothing. I added everything I took out plus another half quart until finally some came out. At that point I put all the plugs back in, cleaned everything up and took it for a ride. I did a bunch of start stops and every time she shifted smooth from first to second and every other gear.

After all that, I've determined the filter was the problem. It obviously wasn't seated right, so the pump couldn't suck up fluid unless the pan was so full it was filling the air gap by the o-ring. However because it was to full it was massing up the valve or solenoid from first to second. Don't do what I did kids!
 
That was one heck of a write up!-lol
 
I have a question about the drain plug. Anyone know which way the washer should face? One side is smooth and flat and the other side is ribbed. Does the ribbed side fit against the pan and the smooth side against the bolt head?
 
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So far I've drained the pan twice. First did it about a month ago and just did it again yesterday. I'm taking a slightly different approach to doing this. I'm treating it more like an oil change. I have a graduated bucket that holds one gallon. I know the tranny pan holds a little more than a gallon of fluid but I drain exactly one gallon out and put the plug back in quickly. Than I just put 4 quarts of genuine toyota WS tranny fluid back in. Done. I drive it for a month. And repeat. I'm going to drain it one more time. I don't want to deal with dropping the pan to get the filter. I don't care and don't think it needs it. My truck has 70k on it. I don't want to deal with possible leaks from breaking the deal on the pan. I just want to get some fresh fluid in there as simple as possible. Little by little so I don't shock the tranny. That's just my personal opinion. I'm sure others will beg to differ. Whatever. There is a definate improvement in how smooth the tranny shifts, most noticeable between 1st and 2nd. Changing the tranny fluid was much quicker and easier than expected. Glad I did it.
 
You couldn't shock the tranny with a simple drain and fill.. When I recently removed my pan bolts after draining it, it was still stuck on. With one little side tap the whole pan just popped off-lol The silicone pan gasket is totally reusable and reseals nicely. I did it twice and it seals (no leaks) nicely so don't hesitate to reuse it.. Btw, when I removed the filter, more fluid poured out of the VB..
 
I'm not saying a drain and fill will shock the tranny. I think removing all the fluid inside the whole tranny at once such as a flush can shock the tranny. I know with the method I'm using will not remove all the old tranny fluid. I'm fine with that. I just want to get some fresh fluid in there. Some guys want 100% new fluid in there when they change it. More power to ya. you got to do what you feel good about. I think i will just do a drain and fill once a year from now on. I didn't want to strip the pan bolts on here like one guy did and then not have my truck not go into to drive and have shifting issues like another member on here by tearing into the pan and changing the filter. I just want to keep it simple.
 
How many quarts of oil did it take to change transmission fluid? I have a 2008 5.7 L with 2WD, went to parts department at Toyota and told my 4 quarts. Some others saying more. Help would be appreciated...
It takes a total of 13.7 quarts...Are you doing a full changout or partial??
pan holds: 2.2 quarts
valve body holds: 5 quarts
torque converter holds: 6.5 quarts

If your just taking the fluid out of the pan then 4 quarts will get you there. Although the pan holds 2.2 quarts there will be about another 2 quarts residual coming down from the valve body.
 
Like triharder I'm in an area with salted roads...so I took his advice and focused on those pans bolts prior to the pan drop. I bought 12 quarts of WS and did a pan drain that took ~3 quarts...I have a scangauge so the refill was easy. I also took the time to wire brush those pan bolts that protrude through the case and hit them with a little PB Blaster. I was doing the pan drop the next weekend so I purchased the filter, pan gasket, filter o-ring, pan drain washer, pan over flow washer, and 12 pan bolts. A couple of days prior to the pan drop I added a little more PB Blaster to the bolts.

Doing the pan drop I didn't have problems with any of the bolts...some were a little tighter than others, some showed a little rust, but they all came out intact. Pulling the filter out was easy but noted that the filter o-ring stayed in the valve body...make sure you take it out and install back on the filter for reinstallation if reusing...in my case I had new. Thinking about what tridacna wrote about the filter not being seated...leaving it up in the valve body may cause problems. The pan drain with the filter removed was ~6 quarts. The filter and pan gasket went on easy, and added never seize to those new pan bolts for hopefully easier future pan drops. I have 3 quarts left for another drain/fill.

I've attached pics of the filter split apart...I did have some slivers of metal caught in the media.
 

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Discussion starter · #133 · (Edited)
I've attached pics of the filter split apart...I did have some slivers of metal caught in the media.
Great pictures, How many miles were on that filter and what was the cost? I have 55K on my first fluid change and figured I'd replace the filter at 175K miles total.

No matter what the Toyota filter cost I know it's not a much as the ZF 8 speed filter, It's about $350, though they do include a new plastic pan and bolts. Apparently the pan and filter are one happy expensive piece. Those Germans are so efficient...
 
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The filter change was at 51,000...I bought the filter ($56) and pan gasket ($36) on-line from Sparks Toyota. The rest from my local Toyota dealer...the parts guy told me he gave me a deal on the WS at $8.20/qt, o-ring $2.20, washers $2.41, and bolts $0.83 each. Was not changing from WS so I guess it could have been worse. The filter part number changes for production from 11/07...my truck was made 10/07...hence the picture shows the filter to 10/07. Not sure what the difference is.
 
Pardon me if this is a dumb question, but does having the front end leveled affect the overfill check procedure. From the way I've seen the diagram of how the overfill port works, it seems like if the front end is raised it would take more fluid to make it drain to a trickle.

I am about to do the procedure the OP described, but I just had bilsteins put on the front only which raised the truck ~ 2".

Maybe I'm overthinking it...but curious if this has been addressed?
 
Exactly what I did. I have 39k on my truck and the fluid did not smell burnt, but there was definitely not any pink/red to it. It took exactly 1 gallon to refill as you describe. I am trying to find a way to check the temp of the fluid for the level check without purchasing a scan gauge. I have a bluetooth OBII connector and Torque on my phone, but the transmission temp functions don't seem to work.
 
I just serviced my transmission as i was doing the engine swap in the 08 TRD DC and went by the instructions in this thread.
My trans had 113K miles on the original fluid and I pulled a lot from a 23 foot boat, enclosed trailer, Car hauler w/ cars and 30' travel trailer. My fluid mas pretty dark. Deffinatley due for a full service.
I have also made several long tows, over 1500 miles each way hauling vehicles on my car hauler from Alabama to Colorado.
All seems to be good. KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK on wood. I have never had any problems out of the transmission but I am very glad I did the service after seeing the condition of the fluid.
Joe
 
Discussion starter · #139 ·
Exactly what I did. I have 39k on my truck and the fluid did not smell burnt, but there was definitely not any pink/red to it. It took exactly 1 gallon to refill as you describe. I am trying to find a way to check the temp of the fluid for the level check without purchasing a scan gauge. I have a bluetooth OBII connector and Torque on my phone, but the transmission temp functions don't seem to work.
If you have the factory tranny temp gauge there are pictures showing the temps for checking the fluid level. There are instructions on using the dash light in the pdf of the factory fluid check. The link is in the second message of this thread.
 
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