@Hollywood D, here's the Toyota instructions for the TRD Pro suspension.

I assume your 6112's are assembled, i.e. springs installed on the 6112 shocks, so you're removing & installing complete coil-over units.

The Pro coil-overs are physically similar to 6112's, so these instructions might give the big picture, plus the LCA details and techniques that you may not have at present.

I didn't do the Pro suspension install myself, so I'm unable to answer specific questions.

Please note, towards the end, the instructions require a Zero Point Calibration. This avoids befuddling the VSC.

Hope this info helps - if not, my apologies for wasting your time.

Looks like a helluva "driveway job". Best luck to you!

 

@Hollywood D, this thread may help you with LCA's, as well:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-control-arm-bolts-stuck.7627/

Please read the whole thread. There's alignment info toward the end.

Best Regards,

 

Very helpful thanks guys. Looks like I need to go to sears and get some bigger sockets. Did anybody use an impact wrench on the spindle bolts? It calls for 220lbft of torque on them. My torque wrench only goes to about 110. Not even sure I could put that much torque on those bolts by hand anyways.

 

@Hollywood D, maybe you didn't notice, but only one "guys" responded - me - twice.
If you've got the time, maybe you can click the thanks buttons.

Here's one way to get 220 lb-ft:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...Z6X34PDKRBENXYTY&pd_rd_w=jto1E&pd_rd_wg=Bs1LU&psc=1&refRID=5WSYZ6X34PDKRBENXYTY

You can probably rent a half way decent one at O'Reilly's or AutoZone.

Just measured mine - it's 24" long. You can do it! The laws of physics are on your side.
Clearance on the truck might be an issue, though.

Helluva a driveway job, for sure.

 

You do not need to loosen the eccentrics at all, just have a long enough pry bar to get the LCA down low enough to slide the CO in.....its simple dude.

Why, everyone says to loosen them is beyond me, I never have ever and I have removed mine dozens of times.

 

You do not need to loosen the eccentrics at all, just have a long enough pry bar to get the LCA down low enough to slide the CO in.....its simple dude.

I used this method too, but it took a lot of weight to get the LCA down enough to fit the 6112s in. So much that I bent the sway bar pocket on the LCA. Here's a picture of my method, I used a 24" breaker bar handle reversed. One tip: keep the sway bar bolt in the pocket as it allows for easy leverage, but be sure to tighten it all the way. One side was loose and I broke the tack welds on the nut inside the LCA so I had to monkey around with a open wrench to reinstall the sway bar.

 

When I did my install we popped upper control arm off of the spindle then just pushed the lower control arm and spindle down to give the room to install the coilover assembly in place, we did use a ratchet strap to pull things back together. There are pics in one of the 6112 threads. Much easier in my opinion and then you don't have to worry so much about the alignment being way off when driving it to the shop for it's alignment. Mine is 2WD so of course that could be a variable that doesn't allow for this installation method.

 

What clip setting(s), (driver passenger vary?) did you use to get your truck leveled?? I have a 2016 rwd crewmax and will be installing 6112's once I figure out if stock coils are softer than coils in the 6112 complete assembly

 

^I used this method. Fairly straight forward when you get started.

 

Sorry jburson. Wasn't paying attention to the user names, doh! I usually get on this website from my phone and its glitchy at best.

Headed out to sears today to get a new socket and will tackle this next Saturday. I'll get a bigger pry bar too and try that method but I'll be doing this myself so we will see how that goes.

 

You just place the pry bar in the sway bar pocket in the LCA and slightly pry down to clear the top of the coilover. So easy that youll get mad at yourself.

 

Well I got these installed today. Took about 5 hours by myself including a lunch break. I appreciate everyone's help. The pry bar trick worked like a charm. Glad I didn't mess with the eccentric bolts. It's dark out now but I'll post pics later.

Definitely worth every penny. Truck drives and rides a lot better and it's perfectly level on the 3rd setting according to my measurements.

 

That's great news! Thanks for the update.

 

2 questions.
Do you still use a spring compressor using this method ?
And you just stick the bar in there and push down?

 

Good tip on keeping the bolt in there for leverage. I have a craftsman 34" pry bar and the tip of it was just small enough to fit in the square shaped hole at the end of the sway bar saddle. I only weigh 160 so I had to sit on it to move the lca down low enough. Drivers side was a bit more difficult because I also had one CB shim on that side.

You don't need spring compressors to remove the stock coilovers. Once the tires are off the ground all the tension is removed.

I got my 6112s from Keith at dirty deeds and had him pre-assemble them so it was just a simple bolt up.

 

Oh and if you have to sit on your pry bar to get enough leverage I suggest you throw a leg over it or sit somewhat sideways so you don't get racked in the nuts. It slipped on me a couple times.

 

I did this in my driveway and used a 6 foot pressure treated 2x4 and placed it between the aft bump stop and lower control arm then just pushed it down worked like a charm. Getting the bottom bolts back into the spindle with the shock set at the top setting was the hardest part.

 

Yea the spindle bolts proved a challenge. I used a ratchet strap to pull the uca down to the lca to make it easier.

 

I put a jack under the shock mount after installing the 6112 and raised enough to align the spindle bolts fairly easily.

 

I did 3rd setting also. Didn't touch the rear other than replacing the shocks. I did a coach builder shim on the drivers side too.