tow/haul = free
BD tuner = $$ with the possibility of blowing up the engine/frying the ecu..

i'll stick to the button on the center dash

 

Don't really want to get into a debate and have read about the stated problems. The BD tuner's price below $400, a lot better than when it first came out! Those that bricked their ECU didn't remove parasitic draw from their battery or didn't have a battery charger installed. The one that blew his engine had other issues going on when he was running the 95 tune causing the engine to run too lean Afr's. The one transmission issue was valve body related, covered under warranty and is still up in the air if it was BD's fault. I've enjoyed mine since day one from being N/A to adding the S/C. People jumped ship from BD and went with Hypertec and now they are having issues...

 

There is something seriously wrong with the electronics design inside a tuner that needs a charger attached with a perfectly good battery.

 

It's cheap insurance from bricking the ECU. Even Toyota has to use a battery charger when flashing the ECU, a few Toyota technicians have bricked ECU's because they didn't use the battery charger. A fully charged battery with no draw can be flashed with the BD but I wouldn't take that chance. Would it be safe to say it's the ECU that needs the full charge?

 

Vehicles today are packed with electronics from stem to stern. None of them require a charger attached to allow them run properly. That is, except for BD. :dunno:

Chargers inject very noisy unfiltered electricity into the vehicle's electrical system. Ironically running electronics with a charger attached creates a greater risk of damaging the electronics. I might accept it if they specified a quality DC power supply to be attached, but not a charger. Something is amiss here.

 

FYI - When you are charging the battery, the battery actually serves as the filter for the electronic devices it is simultaneously powering. Also, car batteries are intended to start the vehicle, not run the electronic devices with the engine off. That is one of the roles of the alternator. The charger is simply ensuring the battery draw doesn't exceed its minimal amp hour draw and inadvertently turn off the programmer while flashing the ECU.

 

I understand where your coming from. DC power is pretty clean, has few ripples even with a battery charger is pretty clean compared to some AC sources.
When flashing the ECU Toyota specifies that they use a charger so they don't brick the ECU. It's not just BD that requires this for Toyota. The BD for Jeep applications doesn't state to connect a charger only a fully charged battery. I know other vehicles with different brands don't require the charger so it leads me to believe it is Toyota specific.

 

I did manage to switch tunes without a charger a few times.


As for tow/haul vs bd, bd kicks tow/hauls ass. Tow mode really just increases shift points, and affects the parameters for engine braking. That is all. Bd changes a lot more than that. I will not say it was worth the original price, but it is sure as hell wayyyy better than driving in tow/haul mode just to have higher rev's.

 

I did manage to switch tunes without a charger a few times.

That is because you are the epitome of control and smoothness. .

.

 

LOL,

And because I had just gotten done from a long drive so the batt was at full cap, and everything was shut off, including the amp remote wire pulled. :lol5:

I did this a few times, then decided that the charger was there anyways, and a 2 amp charge is more than enough, and then I didn't have to unplug the amp activation wire.

 

Did BD ever compensate you for all your testing?
I remember you were testing it probably more than the BD guys did...

 

I look at it like this, the tow/haul was designed by Toyota for the truck and there opinion of optimum conditions for towing. my experience as a service tech has led me to believe stock is the way to go. sure thing your going to notice more power and what not with a tuner, but I have seen plenty of trucks just not last as long with tuners. There is a price to play I guess. most ppl that have tuners also drive vehicles rather hard. im not saying it a bad product or anything, I just wouldn't use it. its a quick way to possibly create warranty headaches down the road. If it was good for the truck the manufacture would have tuned it that way themselves. think about it like this, ppl that build and race cars tend to have things break a lot more frequently then ppl that just have box stock cars. I would imagine its true for ppl in the truck world. Again im not saying the product is bad. It may be great, but im sure in some way shape or form some type of reliability is lost. I wont run one on my truck. It's my DD family ride. I will push the limit on my Conquest, but im not concerned with it having to be reliable to drive or transport my family anywhere. and again the reliability concern with the tuners could also just be a result from a majority of the users run the dog poop out of them. just $0.02

 

As for lighting the tires up, I could light the 107lb per corner 33x12.5-18's without an issue without tow mode on, without tuner. If you couldn't light up the tires without engaging tow mode, you have something wrong.

As for tuners and pushing limits, on n/a vehicles in has became increasingly harder for just a tuner to make more power, it is how that power is delivered that they can alter which is what bd more or less did to make it have more power on tap. Realistically it may have gained maybe 10hp, however it seems like it was over a broader band than stock. It is not like a diesel where you gain 150 hp and 300 ft lbs... That is where you ask for trouble, especially trans issues, and engine issues if you do not monitor egt's.

 

As for lighting the tires up, I could light the 107lb per corner 33x12.5-18's without an issue without tow mode on, without tuner. If you couldn't light up the tires without engaging tow mode, you have something wrong.

I think he has a 2014. Toyota did something with the tune on the 14's. It's a hell a lot more touchy/responsive with tow haul mode on compared to my 2008 with or without tow mode on. Same with my parents 2010.

 

Tow/haul just holds upshifts a little longer at part throttle (i.e. higher rpms). There is no uprating of the engine's hp.

Don't forget emissions delete on diesels. That in itself makes tuners worth their weight in gold. Don't ask me how I know this. :lol:

 

Tomorrow I am using tow/haul mode to drive to work. Can't wait to see the difference ...

 

Is it safe for the engine and transmission to use tow/haul all the time?
I know gas mileage would suffer, but I don't mind.

 

I think the difference everyone might be feeling is that with tow/haul, the truck will go off the line in first gear vs normal second gear when under light acceleration. Converter lockup seems to happen quicker too. Definitely noticeable on my 2015... I have to touch the throttle lightly to avoid a wheel chirp.

 

Like I said, it reminds me of an aftermarket tuner like my hypertech that made a very noticeable difference vs the stock tune on my mustang. Felt so right I smoked a guy at the light yesterday and everyone looked when they heard the motor sing and the throaty exhaust note ..next time im rolling my window down...hell yeah.

 

on 2014 they changed the tip in on the throttle to make the truck not give you whiplash when taking off.... tow haul removes that plus changes shift points etc....thats the best part of it.

 

So it makes a 14+ feel like a 2010 with the touchy throttle...
I guess that would make it seem like it has more balls.

 

Pretty much. It does launch better if you are red light racing.