[Powertechn2]

yes, yes and yes. Do I need a spring compressor? Any how to videos? Thanks

Yes, assuming you are just swapping the struts themselves and did not purchase loaded assemblies.

If you are swapping springs, keep ds and ps on the drivers side and passenger side, as they have different spring rates.

 

[Powertechn2]

I just don't remove or loosen the lca cam bolts. I remove the two bolts for the knuckle/spindle. More chances of being the same.

 

[Powertechn2]

Powertechn2, with out loosening the lower control arms did you have enough room to get the strut assembly out of the truck? Was you vehicle a 2 or 4 wheel drive?

On my 2010, and fj, yes. Had to pry down the lca a bit, but no issues.

On my 2017, I installed uca's, so had more room.

4wd, only way to go.

 

[Powertechn2]

You absolutely need to disco the sway bar, so you're on the money.

And they will fit.

I just assumed the op would have known to disco it.

Otherwise we likely all would have listed step by step instructions.

I did my 2010 twice, and never had to loosen the uca cam bolts. Second time was super quick. Spent more time waiting for the shop to swap the springs over than anything else.

 

[Powertechn2]

Man I tried everything I could, still couldn't get the top of shock in the hole. Taking it in to a shop in the morning, I'm 57 years old, gave it a shot. Sore as hell. 500.00 Tires, rims, and Bilsteins. Done deal.

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What were you using to pry down the lca?

I just used a 24-28" pry bar. I mean, if you made it that far, you could have just said hell with these guys and loosened the cam bolts. You have to get an alignment afterwards anyways.

Even on my 2017, I still had to pry them down a bit, just didn't take the two lower knuckle/spindle bolts out as I had the uca out.

I think I used my 42" bar, maybe my 48"... I have upgraded in tools over the years so I can work smarter and not harder.

 

[Powertechn2]

I dropped the lca completely as per YT video, the Bilsteins on the highest setting would not let me put it back in the hole, it's too long, tried prying, got spring close but not top threaded part. 1" from hole.

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Odd, as at any setting, the total height uncompressed is the same.

 

[Powertechn2]

Odd my ass, you take a shock and extended it by 1-1/2 " top setting it ain't going. The lca is preventing it from letting it line up properly.

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I have had no issues 3 times man, it is odd.

I mean, you gave it your best, kudo's.

We all have the same truck, from 2007 and up. The shock itself is not any longer with it on it's top setting without any load. It is the same as if it were on the lowest setting. The spring extends the shock out as much as it can without any load.

Some of us are techs, some of us are assholes, some of us do mechanical stuff for a living.

I am redoing a bathroom. I already have at least7 days of me working on it, and it isn't done. I could have hired someone and it would be done, but would have cost me. And likely turned out like shit. So I am diy'ing it.

We all gotta know when to hold em, and know when to fold man.

I absolutely mean no disrespect at all. You at least did more and put more effort that those that chime in with "Paid 750 for level kit install, truck drives weird, did I get assphucked?".


To any one near me in Mi, if you are planning something, and need assistance, let me know. As long as I am not busy, and you are close, I am glad to come by to help... Maybe buy pizza lol.

 

[Powertechn2]

You in Maine? I’ll do it for $300 and then you can get that alignment. Haha, no worries. I understand. I’m a bit younger. It took me a lot of trial and error and about 9 hours my first (and only) time. If I had $500 burning a hole in my pocket, I’d have hired it out. Unfortunately, my pockets have holes, and it’s not because all the money, LOL. I needed height on my last truck due to plow bottoming out. Thankfully haven’t needed to shell out on shocks again, yet.


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Seriously, 9 hours?


Gdamn.

I think my 2010 first tundra it was about 2.5. Lol. I think with uca's and everything, including swapping springs on my 2017 it was about 3-3.5, using a bs spring compressor, while hungover.

No knocking.

Look guys, if anyone has issues, ask. More often that not, if someone up in here is in your area, and mechanically inclined, we all like to help, and meet other peeps.

 

[Powertechn2]

While I got some shit rolling, 2010 tundra. Notorious for blowing steering rack, just bought the truck. Putting Bilstein 2-1/2 lift on front, 305-55/20 tires on it. Got 76000 mi. on it. Hopefully it has been replaced or it is good. Thoughts. Thx.

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You can look up service if you register with the Toyota owners website. You can see what has been done service wise.


https://www.toyota.com/owners/parts-service/history

I have not tried it on used, but on everything I have owned, up till a month or two after I sold/traded, it showed everything done under the vin.



My 2010 needed a rack. It had not completely failed at the time, but had the clunking/noise when turning that was a sign of the issue. I had mine warrantied.


I actually sent a link to my dealer doing the work's service manager explaining the details of how to do it without pulling the engine, as they wanted to pull it. They were happy, and I didn't have them dealing with pulling my engine fubar'ing much more stuff up... Everyone was happy. Tech got paid book. Made money. I didn't have engine removal related issues.