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my truck feels sluggish off the start and i do not have the towing gear ratio, just the stock ratio. is the sluggishness from the vsc thing or what? cuz id like to get this thing a lil more acceleration (i have a 3 chamber spintech muffler and K&N intake). i was thinking the hypertech may help this when it changes the shift points or do i need to to this mod to get this sluggishness to go away?
 
Any links on how to get the console out? I would like to try this. I called two dealers around here and neither one of them had a clue what the zero calibration was. What morons. I think I will just try the washer thing and see what that does.
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
I used this video. The guy shows how to remove several of the pieces you will need to remove. You do not need to remove the upper dash and some other stuff he does, but this video does come in handy.


Basically you start with the piece where the cigarette lighter is below the AC controls, then go from there. It's not as hard as you might think, took me about 10 minutes. You can use this thread too:

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...t/forums/tundra-interior-discussion/67269-how-do-you-remove-center-console.html
 
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So wheres the module at then under the center console??
 
Ah ok thanks so put two washers on the back and that should so it
 
my truck feels sluggish off the start and i do not have the towing gear ratio, just the stock ratio. is the sluggishness from the vsc thing or what? cuz id like to get this thing a lil more acceleration (i have a 3 chamber spintech muffler and K&N intake). i was thinking the hypertech may help this when it changes the shift points or do i need to to this mod to get this sluggishness to go away?
The only way to get that stock "zip" back off the line would be to re-gear. I've moved from a 32" tire to a 34", doing a ratio I would need a 4.56 (starting w/ the 4.3). I believe there is a 4.88 (HOLY rock crawler) out w/ a 4.56 in the works. But at ~1500 bucks this mod. isn't worth it to me (not a mod. I will do myself...). I'm still faster than a 6.2 Raptor, so that's all I care about. :D

Running a CAI you are also losing low end power, they are only good for gaining upper end power....hence why I don't run one.
 
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Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Ok, I did the zero point calibration at home tonight. It is EASY.

1. Park you truck on LEVEL ground

2. Get a paper clip

3. Turn your key to "ON", but do not start engine.

4. Under your dash near the TPMS reset, you'll see a white connector. This is where you will be using the paper clip. Refer to attached PDF for picture of connector. Notice it is upside down from what you will see under the dash.

5. Unfold the paper clip, and use it to connect terminal 4 and 12 on the terminal 4 or more times within 8 seconds. You may be able to hear the VSC disengage (I did). Look on the dash and verify the VSC OFF light is on. If it is, you are done with this step. If it is not, keep trying until you succeed.

6. Once you have the VSC light flashing, turn the ignition off. While it is off, insert the paper clip back in 4 and 12 and leave it connected. Turn the ignition back to ON (do not start engine). You should hear the beeps which mean the system has been reset. Remove the paper clip. Turn ignition off.

Your zero point has now been recalibrated!

Note: By providing this information, I take no responsibility for anything that might occur as a result of you attempting this on your truck! ;)

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tundra/44434d1250647644-success-vsc-lift-issue-fix-confirmed-vsc-calibration.pdf
 
Just did the washers an zero point reset well see wat she does.
 
First I added the washers to the back of the VSC module. I noticed a decent increase in performance, but not where I was before the leveling kit. I was afraid to try to zero the sensor though. After you posted your step by step instructions, it seemed easy enough, so I gave it a go. It was super easy, and it made a big difference. I now have all of my power back , and am reminded why I bought the truck every time I put the pedal to the metal. Thanks op.
 
I did the washer mod, it was really easy getting to it. There is one corner on my way to work where the VSC always kicks in. I will test it later when I leave. Still kinda sketched out about doing the ZERO cal. Is it necessary with the washer mod?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I did the washer mod, it was really easy getting to it. There is one corner on my way to work where the VSC always kicks in. I will test it later when I leave. Still kinda sketched out about doing the ZERO cal. Is it necessary with the washer mod?
I'm not sure, really. It's really easy though, worth a try.
 
Ok, I did the zero point calibration at home tonight. It is EASY.

1. Park you truck on LEVEL ground

2. Get a paper clip

3. Turn your key to "ON", but do not start engine.

4. Under your dash near the TPMS reset, you'll see a white connector. This is where you will be using the paper clip. Refer to attached PDF for picture of connector. Notice it is upside down from what you will see under the dash.

5. Unfold the paper clip, and use it to connect terminal 4 and 12 on the terminal 4 or more times within 8 seconds. You may be able to hear the VSC disengage (I did). Look on the dash and verify the VSC OFF light is on. If it is, you are done with this step. If it is not, keep trying until you succeed.

6. Once you have the VSC light flashing, turn the ignition off. While it is off, insert the paper clip back in 4 and 12 and leave it connected. Turn the ignition back to ON (do not start engine). You should hear the beeps which mean the system has been reset. Remove the paper clip. Turn ignition off.

Your zero point has now been recalibrated!

Note: By providing this information, I take no responsibility for anything that might occur as a result of you attempting this on your truck! ;)

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tundra/44434d1250647644-success-vsc-lift-issue-fix-confirmed-vsc-calibration.pdf
What he said... it's easy. A dealer will charge around a hundred bucks for something you can do fairly easily.
 
I'm guessing this is only an 07-09 mod?
The dealer told me the 2010 doesn't have a zero point calibration. Granted, my dealership is full of ***holes.

Are there any 2010 or 2011 Tundras with a successful zero point?
 
I could not sleep for some reason so I decided to read some threads in the Tundra forum and I found this.... is about 1:00am I decided to add 3 washers took the truck for a drive and guest what, it works.. The truck feels faster.. I did a leveling kit and tires about 2 yeas, I don't ever remember loosing any power at the time and just recently I did a 3/1, power the same. After doing this trick I sure feel the difference and cant wait till tomorrow to do the re-calibrated the Zero Point...

I have a new Tundra....:)
 
I could not sleep for some reason so I decided to read some threads in the Tundra forum and I found this.... is about 1:00am I decided to add 3 washers took the truck for a drive and guest what, it works.. The truck feels faster.. I did a leveling kit and tires about 2 yeas, I don't ever remember loosing any power at the time and just recently I did a 3/1, power the same. After doing this trick I sure feel the difference and cant wait till tomorrow to do the re-calibrated the Zero Point...

I have a new Tundra....:)
I hear ya. I did the same thing 2 weeks ago. The snap is back!!!!:hyper:
 
OK, questions...
What if I don't notice any difference? I bought my truck, and within a couple weeks and less than 300 miles I put the LRO kit on along with the 34.5" tires.

I'm thinking either 1.) I wasn't familiar enough with the truck to notice a loss in performance, or 2.) I didn't lose any performance.

BTW: My LRO kit definitely has some rake in it. It's not even close to level.
 
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