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OK, questions...
What if I don't notice any difference? I bought my truck, and within a couple weeks and less than 300 miles I put the LRO kit on along with the 34.5" tires.

I'm thinking either 1.) I wasn't familiar enough with the truck to notice a loss in performance, or 2.) I didn't lose any performance.

BTW: My LRO kit definitely has some rake in it. It's not even close to level.
You would know, the VSC light would be flashing when you stomp on it. It's possible that you have enough rake to mimic the stock yaw.
 
If u drive with nannies off all the time there's no need to do this, right?
 
If u drive with nannies off all the time there's no need to do this, right?
In my situation, I didn't have any VSC lights or beeps going on. Just the sluggishness and I have the nannies off. I have 3 inch front spacer lift and air bags in the back. I also have the stock steel wheels and stock tires. The rear is about an inch higher than the front.
 
OK, questions...
What if I don't notice any difference? I bought my truck, and within a couple weeks and less than 300 miles I put the LRO kit on along with the 34.5" tires.

I'm thinking either 1.) I wasn't familiar enough with the truck to notice a loss in performance, or 2.) I didn't lose any performance.

BTW: My LRO kit definitely has some rake in it. It's not even close to level.
I have the same rake as you and have never seen the VSC light. I also have a mild lift with rear rake still.


So for the record , if you dont see the VSC light ever there is no need to do this mod?
 
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I have the same rake as you and have never seen the VSC light. I also have a mild lift with rear rake still.


So for the record , if you dont see the VSC light ever there is no need to do this mod?
If you haven't had the VSC on hard acceleration or on corners AND you didn't notice a bit of sluggishness after installing the kit and tires then I would say leave well enough alone and don't do anything.

For me, I never had the VSC kick off on hard accel [pre-supercharger] but I did have the VSC kick on after turning on circular offramps where I was going 28mph+. Since then I've been driving with the nannies off. PITA.

This weekend I did teh three washers under the rear to shim front to back. Then I took my level to the yaw sensor to verify side to side level. The three washers in the rear are offset to the screw in the front so it tilted the yaw up and to the right. I added one washer under the sensor on the left side to offset. It didn't level it but it did make it better.

Then I took it for a test drive and I still got the VSC on the same corner. I imagine I have to do the yaw zero point using the paper clip but haven't gotten the nerve to do it. Once I do that or maybe have the dealer do it, I would expect it to go away.

If not, I'll keep driving with nannies off and call it a wash.
 
Then I took it for a test drive and I still got the VSC on the same corner. I imagine I have to do the yaw zero point using the paper clip but haven't gotten the nerve to do it. Once I do that or maybe have the dealer do it, I would expect it to go away.

If not, I'll keep driving with nannies off and call it a wash.
Putting the washers in will do nothing unless you have the zero point calibration done. The system needs to reset and "see" the new yaw setting.

SP:
So for the record , if you dont see the VSC light ever there is no need to do this mod?

This is correct, there is no need since it is not tripping any sensor. If there's sluggishness, that could be for a variety of reasons. I've even heard some people complain that they thought there was a H.P. loss due to a little axle wrap with the one inch block (although I doubt it personally). The yaw sensor spacer helps only if you are experiencing a drop in acceleration when the VSC kicks in. Back when I put my lift on (and before the spacer/ZPC) I would hard accelerate on an on ramp and it would engage and fall on it's face, literally moving my body forward a little because of the sudden deceleration.
 
I will be testing this out tomorrow...slow day at work...

My VSC scensor kicks on often around corners and drives me crazy!! My wife almost had a wreck the first time she was driving and made a quick turn.

I have noticed a signifigant loss in power and towing is well, terrible...I am hoping this does half the trick!

I will post details tomorrow.

Putting the washers in will do nothing unless you have the zero point calibration done. The system needs to reset and "see" the new yaw setting.

SP:
So for the record , if you dont see the VSC light ever there is no need to do this mod?

This is correct, there is no need since it is not tripping any sensor. If there's sluggishness, that could be for a variety of reasons. I've even heard some people complain that they thought there was a H.P. loss due to a little axle wrap with the one inch block (although I doubt it personally). The yaw sensor spacer helps only if you are experiencing a drop in acceleration when the VSC kicks in. Back when I put my lift on (and before the spacer/ZPC) I would hard accelerate on an on ramp and it would engage and fall on it's face, literally moving my body forward a little because of the sudden deceleration.
 
can this be done with a 2010?
 
can this be done with a 2010?
it was there on my 2011 with bench seat, four bolts and center seat comes right out. but i can find the white plug to zero it out
 
Putting the washers in will do nothing unless you have the zero point calibration done. The system needs to reset and "see" the new yaw setting.
This statement makes no sense to me,,,, how did you confirm this info? I'm in the electronics industry (over 20 years experience) and currently work on some pretty high tech stuff. Our equipment (and all that I have worked on in the past) has hundreds of sensors that require some type of "zero point cal" when changes are made,,, so I get the process.

I'm pretty sure the ZPC on the Tundra needs to be completed (best thing to do) OR the sensor needs shimmed (if either are needed),,,, both are NOT required.

When you lift your truck, in theory, you throw off the OEM zero reference for the "yaw sensor" enough to effect the VSC calculations. You can either try to work around this and take a SWAG at it by shimming the sensor and attempt to return it close to it's original reference angle,,, OR you can do the ZPC, and over-write the old reference angle data with the new (accurate) reference angle data.

Sure,,, you could do both, and it may work just fine (provided we don't accidentally throw the "yaw sensor" out of it's min/max range),,, but I would bet shimming along with the ZPC is not neccessary.

I'm not trying to be a jag-off here,,, but that's why electronic sensors have calibration abilities,,, to re-calibrate the device back to it's "Zero Reference Point" after physical/mechanical/environmental variables are changed. If there were no way to electronically re-cal the "Yaw sensor",, then the only option would be the shim work around,,, but since the ZPC is possible,,, it's the only "right" way to do it.

I could be way off base,,, but I'd like to see the documented info that shows otherwise.
 
it was there on my 2011 with bench seat, four bolts and center seat comes right out. but i can find the white plug to zero it out
The white plug your referring to is just the obdll plug
 
This statement makes no sense to me,,,, how did you confirm this info? I'm in the electronics industry (over 20 years experience) and currently work on some pretty high tech stuff. Our equipment (and all that I have worked on in the past) has hundreds of sensors that require some type of "zero point cal" when changes are made,,, so I get the process.

I'm pretty sure the ZPC on the Tundra needs to be completed (best thing to do) OR the sensor needs shimmed (if either are needed),,,, both are NOT required.

When you lift your truck, in theory, you throw off the OEM zero reference for the "yaw sensor" enough to effect the VSC calculations. You can either try to work around this and take a SWAG at it by shimming the sensor and attempt to return it close to it's original reference angle,,, OR you can do the ZPC, and over-write the old reference angle data with the new (accurate) reference angle data.

Sure,,, you could do both, and it may work just fine (provided we don't accidentally throw the "yaw sensor" out of it's min/max range),,, but I would bet shimming along with the ZPC is not neccessary.

I'm not trying to be a jag-off here,,, but that's why electronic sensors have calibration abilities,,, to re-calibrate the device back to it's "Zero Reference Point" after physical/mechanical/environmental variables are changed. If there were no way to electronically re-cal the "Yaw sensor",, then the only option would be the shim work around,,, but since the ZPC is possible,,, it's the only "right" way to do it.

I could be way off base,,, but I'd like to see the documented info that shows otherwise.
im thinking the same as you. just leave the yaw sensor alone and do the zero point. to me that makes the truck think the lift is the OEM setting.
 
i just got done reading this entire thread and was thinking the same why shim then reset zero. just reset zero and be done

Thanks Verrot for being the first to post
 
i just got done reading this entire thread and was thinking the same why shim then reset zero. just reset zero and be done

Thanks Verrot for being the first to post
I've never had the sluggish feeling but I do have the vsc kicking in on circular off ramps or hard turns at above ave speeds. I had the complete zero point done immediately after the lift. Still happens.

Haven't done the zero on the yaw yet since adding shim. Still on to do list...
 
aven't done the zero on the yaw yet since adding shim. Still on to do list..
Did the VSC continue to kick in after the you shimmed the sensor as well?
 
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