Well, since most of the threads dealing with oil changes center around the 5.7L engine, I figured the rest of you who own a 4.7L can use this Do It Yourself guide to changing the oil. It will closely resemble the DIY: 5.7L Oil Change post that has received many views.
I won't bore you with a lot of words, but let me say first of all, that this is my first oil change on this truck. This truck is not new...it has 39,000 miles on it, but it is my first time changing it since I've owned it. All that to say this: If I can do it, then you can do it!
First, purchase your oil. The 4.7L engine uses 5w-30. I went ahead and purchased Mobil 1 0w-30. Using 0w will not hurt your engine. It might even give you a slight gain in fuel economy.
Here is what I purchased:
(2) 5 Qt Mobil 1 0w-30 Synthetic - $22 each at Wal-Mart
Mobil 1 Oil Filter - $12 at Kragen
![Image]()
Additional Tools:
Creeper (Optional)
Oil catch pan
Funnel
12mm socket (skid plate bolts)
14mm socket (drain plug)
Paper Towels
First thing, locate your bolts to the skid plate. There are 5 total. 3 in the front, and 2 toward the rear. The best method of removing these is to take out the front left and right bolts leaving the center one there for now. Then remove the 2 rear bolts. Then while holding up the rear, remove the front center bolt. You'll notice that the plate doesn't just fall right into your lap....it has two hooks just above the 2 front left and right bolts. You'll find out just how important these 2 hooks are when you go to re-attach the plate.
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Here it is removed. You can see the two hooks...
![Image]()
Ahhhh, there we go.....clear access to the oil filter.
![Image]()
I suppose if you had long arms you could remove it without taking off the skid plate....but you risk making a mess once you remove the filter.
BTW....ever wonder where in the world your alternator is?? It's impossible to see from the top of the engine compartment. But once you remove the skid plate, there she is!
![Image]()
Ok, your next step is to then place your oil catch pan under the drain plug, and then using your 14mm socket with ratchet, remove the drain plug.
![Image]()
Once you get it broke loose, it will easily hand turn out. To make as little mess as possible on your hand and arm, unscrew it while pushing upward with the bolt. That way, once you have it all the way unscrewed, you can jerk your hand/bolt away and give the oil little chance to run down your hand and arm.
![Image]()
I'm not sure if this was necessary, but I cracked the oil fill cap so that a vacuum wouldn't hinder the drain process. It was windy enough as it is and my oil stream was being blown around.
![Image]()
Sit back and wait a bit for the oil to come out. I replaced the plug once it came to a slow drip. Then move your pan over to the oil filter. I was able to unscrew mine with my hands...but it was hard. Some of you might need to get a strap wrench....or even a large set of water pump pliers could help you out. I let mine drain to where it would drip about once every 10 seconds.
![Image]()
Now, once you have your new filter on, and your drain plug installed and tightened, it time to fill it up with new oil. The 0w-30 I used was like water...so the first 5 qts went in fast. I decided to check the dip stick after 5 of the 6.6 qts, and it landed right dab in the middle!
![Image]()
So after another 1.5-2 more qts, it was good to go.
I was contemplating leaving the skid plate off....not because I'm lazy, but because I was wondering if it would make a difference in fuel economy because of the weight removal. But after considering the aerodynamics and the fact that if I did bottom out on something....I would not be pleased. Besides, the front already had a lot of scratches and I'm sure that plate is there for a reason. So I installed it.
![Image]()
Installing in this order made it go pretty easy for me:
1) Lay it on your chest and slide under the truck....
2) Stick those 2 hooks in their slot and while pressing up on the back end of the plate, hand screw in the center bolt.
3) Then, before your arms tire out, hand screw in the rear bolts.
4) Hand screw in the remaining bolts and then tighten them all with the 12mm socket and ratchet.
Start up the truck...check for leaks...monitor the oil pressure gauge.....and take note of when your next oil change should be.
Easy!....and all you were out was the cost of the oil and filter. $42 for me....and it now has top of the line synthetic in it.
I know this was a quick rundown....but through experience, you'll get the hang of it.
I won't bore you with a lot of words, but let me say first of all, that this is my first oil change on this truck. This truck is not new...it has 39,000 miles on it, but it is my first time changing it since I've owned it. All that to say this: If I can do it, then you can do it!
First, purchase your oil. The 4.7L engine uses 5w-30. I went ahead and purchased Mobil 1 0w-30. Using 0w will not hurt your engine. It might even give you a slight gain in fuel economy.
Here is what I purchased:
(2) 5 Qt Mobil 1 0w-30 Synthetic - $22 each at Wal-Mart
Mobil 1 Oil Filter - $12 at Kragen
Additional Tools:
Creeper (Optional)
Oil catch pan
Funnel
12mm socket (skid plate bolts)
14mm socket (drain plug)
Paper Towels
First thing, locate your bolts to the skid plate. There are 5 total. 3 in the front, and 2 toward the rear. The best method of removing these is to take out the front left and right bolts leaving the center one there for now. Then remove the 2 rear bolts. Then while holding up the rear, remove the front center bolt. You'll notice that the plate doesn't just fall right into your lap....it has two hooks just above the 2 front left and right bolts. You'll find out just how important these 2 hooks are when you go to re-attach the plate.
Here it is removed. You can see the two hooks...
Ahhhh, there we go.....clear access to the oil filter.
I suppose if you had long arms you could remove it without taking off the skid plate....but you risk making a mess once you remove the filter.
BTW....ever wonder where in the world your alternator is?? It's impossible to see from the top of the engine compartment. But once you remove the skid plate, there she is!
Ok, your next step is to then place your oil catch pan under the drain plug, and then using your 14mm socket with ratchet, remove the drain plug.
Once you get it broke loose, it will easily hand turn out. To make as little mess as possible on your hand and arm, unscrew it while pushing upward with the bolt. That way, once you have it all the way unscrewed, you can jerk your hand/bolt away and give the oil little chance to run down your hand and arm.
I'm not sure if this was necessary, but I cracked the oil fill cap so that a vacuum wouldn't hinder the drain process. It was windy enough as it is and my oil stream was being blown around.
Sit back and wait a bit for the oil to come out. I replaced the plug once it came to a slow drip. Then move your pan over to the oil filter. I was able to unscrew mine with my hands...but it was hard. Some of you might need to get a strap wrench....or even a large set of water pump pliers could help you out. I let mine drain to where it would drip about once every 10 seconds.
Now, once you have your new filter on, and your drain plug installed and tightened, it time to fill it up with new oil. The 0w-30 I used was like water...so the first 5 qts went in fast. I decided to check the dip stick after 5 of the 6.6 qts, and it landed right dab in the middle!
So after another 1.5-2 more qts, it was good to go.
I was contemplating leaving the skid plate off....not because I'm lazy, but because I was wondering if it would make a difference in fuel economy because of the weight removal. But after considering the aerodynamics and the fact that if I did bottom out on something....I would not be pleased. Besides, the front already had a lot of scratches and I'm sure that plate is there for a reason. So I installed it.
Installing in this order made it go pretty easy for me:
1) Lay it on your chest and slide under the truck....
2) Stick those 2 hooks in their slot and while pressing up on the back end of the plate, hand screw in the center bolt.
3) Then, before your arms tire out, hand screw in the rear bolts.
4) Hand screw in the remaining bolts and then tighten them all with the 12mm socket and ratchet.
Start up the truck...check for leaks...monitor the oil pressure gauge.....and take note of when your next oil change should be.
Easy!....and all you were out was the cost of the oil and filter. $42 for me....and it now has top of the line synthetic in it.
I know this was a quick rundown....but through experience, you'll get the hang of it.
