Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum banner

Best years to buy a tundra/ worst years to avoid.

43K views 46 replies 27 participants last post by  DogRescue  
#1 ·
Hey. I'm looking to purchase a toyota tundra.
What is the BEST most reliable least likely to end up in the shop year(s) to buy? And what years should I avoid? Need a truck for work and towing
 
#4 ·
Bought it new. Small block motor,TSS, very light towing,
never in shop except for maint during warranty period.
I do maint on it.
intermittent electrical issue,,, anti-skid/anti-lock brake light comes on occasionally with no known effect as I’m driving. It goes out after a short time. Maybe a relay sticking or not good point contact. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Been a very reliable truck.
we've owned Toyotas for 42 yrs and always been good to us. 👍🏻
Hope this helps in your decision.
 
#6 ·
Assuming you are looking at 2nd gen and up trucks (the 1st gen trucks are great, but don't hold a candle to the towing prowess of the 5.7l, IMO), in general I've seen this:

- 07-08 were completely new and had a few bugs to work out. Some early years has torque converter chatter, a very small batch of bad cams (if it's still running now, it wasn't affected by that issue), and a few very small growing pains

- 09-13 were generally very robust; they have occasional cam tower leak (not as bad as it sounds, basically a lower valve cover leak but requires a ton of work to repair as the entire valve train needs to be removed to repair since it is dual overhead cam). Mine has been weeping for 100k miles and hasn't dripped a drop of oil. Toyota also adhered to the J23somethingeruther towing standard and the tow capacity came down a very small amount, so you might find some small discrepancies in tow caps between the years. Realistically, any 07-21 5.7L truck will pull 10k lbs, properly set up.

- 14 saw a few changes as the front clip, bed sides and interior changed. The cab and doors, frame, motor, transmission, suspension, axles, etc are identical to 08-13 with a few very minor tweaks to the ECU tuning (mostly for fuel economy but also to dampen the pedal a little as some earlier model owners complained about a jumpy pedal. They lighted the truck a little bit for about 100 lbs more payload (not GVMW, but payload) compared to 07-13. The other big change was the transfer case; same gearing and operation, but different transfer case so it uses a different fluid. Also, the 4wd computer changed so the transfer case is one of the few things that isn't compatible with earlier trucks.

- 14-17 remained largely unchanged with a few additions like the TRD Pro model in '15, the 1794 Edition with rustic leather seating and accoutrements, and a 38 gallon fuel tank in certain models in 15 or 16. They had a bad batch of fuel pumps around 15 but I wouldn't let that be a deterrent. If the truck is still running, it's not an issue. If it becomes an issue, fuel pumps aren't to bad to do.

- 18 introduces Toyota Safety Sense 2.0 or 2.5 (don't recall which) but the ECU is completely different and you get a host of "safety" features such as lane departure warnings, as well as auto-adjusting cruise on some trims. They also started deleting the factory transmission cooler, so beware of that if you want to tow. It's not terribly difficult to add transmission cooler, but I HIGHLY recommend having one installed. My tundra sees temps around 212 towing, my sequoia (without the cooler, but also 5.7 and tow package) sees 230 on the freeway without a trailer. EEK! So 18-21 are little different than previous models for those reasons.

- 22 was a complete redesign. EVERYTHING is different; TTV6 motor, 10 speed transmission, coil sprung, different axles, smaller cab, bigger overall dimensions, different cab configs... EVERYTHING. The TTV6 does an admirable job towing, I'm told, but they are working through a major engine recall right now. Also, the chassis is stiffer and stronger (marginally), and rides a little better, but doesn't load as well (more squat with less weight) due to the inhering nature of coil sprung suspensions.

IMO, my truck is just about perfect for a towing and hauling - which is what I bought it for. I'd look for a '10-17 5.7L 4x4 (if that's a need) with tow package. Cab and bed configuration as you need, but the double cab 6.5 bed gives you the ability to carry up to 6 people and still have a usable bed. You can get a DC 8' bed, but the Crewmax (big rear seat and doors) only comes with a 5.5' bed. The regular cab comes in both 6.5 and 8' bed, but are harder to find. The tow package gives you 4.30 gears vs 4.10 standard 5.7L or tow 4.6L. It also gives you the large rear axle (10.5" vs 9.5"), transmission and oil coolers, beefier suspension, and the best payload numbers.

If you want a solid tow rig, I'd look at installing a set of E rated tires, some suspension aids (air bags, add a leaf, Sumo, Roadmaster Active Suspension, etc) depending on how much you tow and haul, and some better shocks. I added airbags years ago and they have worked exceptionally well for me. I also have a modified leaf pack, but the air bags alone will get it done if you need. Bilstin 5100's are a great bang for the buck but there is a giant rabbit hole to fall down when it comes to suspension.

Oh, and a supercharge will put a smile your face :D But it's not strictly necessary...
 
#9 ·
[snip]
- 18 introduces Toyota Safety Sense 2.0 or 2.5 (don't recall which) but the ECU is completely different and you get a host of "safety" features such as lane departure warnings, as well as auto-adjusting cruise on some trims. They also started deleting the factory transmission cooler, so beware of that if you want to tow. [snip]
Window sticker on my 2018 2WD 5.7L crewmax states standard equipment includes: "Eng/Trans Fluid Cooler".
I haven't traced out fluid lines, but even if a separate discrete trans cooler is absent, many vehicles have a trans heat exchanger inside the radiator. ie, trans fluid same temp as engine coolant. eg, My 1994 chevy 4WD K1500 was that way.
 
#7 ·
As Blenton said and I would add it is more important to find a truck that has proper maintenance records. You do not get Toyota reliability without following the proper maintenance schedule. I would attempt to purchase from a private party. Look at the records and receipts. I keep a log book as do many do it your self people. Look at the log book. If there are no records don't even wast your time looking at it. Without records buying a vehicle is just a crap shoot at what you may get. I also look at the how everything on the owners property looks. Is it well maintained? If not the vehicle is probably not taken care of well either. People are creates of habit.
 
#10 ·
Looks like "You do not get Toyota reliability" even from the factoray these days, unless you buy a Lexus model that is built in japan. Toyota like all car manufactures are now chasing the profit margin/stock holders as their number one goal, and quality has gone way down IMHO. It seems the cars f the 80's and 90' were built much better, even American made cars, truck,suv's etc
 
#16 ·
Hey. I'm looking to purchase a toyota tundra.
What is the BEST most reliable least likely to end up in the shop year(s) to buy? And what years should I avoid? Need a truck for work and towing
I have a Tundra TRD SR5 DC and have never had an issue with it. I bought it new and only had it in the shop for regular maintenance at Toyota Dealerships. So all maintenance records are on file. It has the 5.7 Liter and 38 gallon gas tank. I tow a 30' 5,000 lb camper and never had an issue with over heating even going over the Blue Ridge mountains on I81. I just did an upgrade from standard headlights and taillights to LED's. I am going to try and post the pics I took.
Image

Image

Image
 
#17 ·
I have a Tundra TRD SR5 DC and have never had an issue with it. I bought it new and only had it in the shop for regular maintenance at Toyota Dealerships. So all maintenance records are on file. It has the 5.7 Liter and 38 gallon gas tank. I tow a 30' 5,000 lb camper and never had an issue with over heating even going over the Blue Ridge mountains on I81. I just did an upgrade from standard headlights and taillights to LED's. I am going to try and post the pics I took.
View attachment 907860
View attachment 907861
View attachment 907862
I forgot to add it's a 2016. I have had a 2007 TRD and a 2000 TRD. I also have had 3 4 Runners. I am a Toyota fan for sure.
 
#27 ·
I love my 2003 Tundra TRD 4x4 v8. It has 401,000 miles. Has been great! The last of the midsized trucks with a v8. I have changed the lower ball joints 2x. I have upgraded the suspension. It will need a new transmission soon. I changed the radiator 2 years ago. I always get oil changes at 5k miles. Transmission and drive train fluids changed at 100k miles. I love this truck. It is very reliable and I used it as a daily driver and go to the mountains too. good luck!
 
#31 ·
I don’t know what to say. I’m the second owner of my Tundra which is a 2010. It was purchased in October of 2009. I’m thinking June of 09 it was assembled. I do all my preventative maintenance. I am very happy with my Tundra
 
#32 ·
I'm the original owner of a 2011 Crewmax TRD 2WD with the 5.7 that now has 194k miles on it. Dealer has always done all scheduled PM on it, and it has never let me down. With the towing package it's a beast. Only other items I've taken care of on my own are replacing the Bilstein shocks and struts at about 130k, both front wheel bearings at around 150k, and carrier bearing at about 180k. I replaced the U-joints when doing the CB. Oh, and I put in an aftermarket head unit in 2018 to get Android Auto / Carplay.

I still like this truck and would be hard-pressed to find a new truck with this kind of reliability. Mileage rarely gets alive 16.5 mpg, but you can't beat the power and reliability.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thumperpaul
#35 ·
I've had several 5.7's but rust in upstate NY got to them, as it did to the 3 early 2000 Sequioa's we had. The Tundra's were indestructable up to 200k BUT ran me $150+/week in gas. My 2013 Ram 1500 has 175k with no rust on the frame ??? & it's still used everyday. Then I bought 2 Tundra's 2023 (10k miles) & a 2024 (16k) both I-Force max hybrids for the heavy towing. But now I maybe on borrowed time given the proverbial thrown bearing issues. I also wish they would go back to the 5.7.
 
#42 ·
I found
Two holes in my bed behind the rear wheels as well. I changed the bed and had the replacement bed sprayed with Line-X. The holes were created by the slide in plastic liner. Garbage bed liners