PART COLOR LOCATION DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSE BOX, (WHITE 1-Pin Plug) Pin 1
STARTER GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 6
IGNITION 2 LT. GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 1
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 2
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) TAN (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, or BODY ECU, (WHITE, 26-Pin Plug) Pin 23, NOTE #3
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN (+) @ DASH FUSE BOX, (WHITE, 24-Pin Plug(B) Pin 8
POWER LOCK WHITE (TYPE B) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, (BLUE, 17-Pin Plug) Pin 7
POWER UNLOCK RED (TYPE B) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, (BLUE, 17-Pin Plug) Pin 6
LOCK MOTOR WIRE WHITE (5-wire type) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, (BLUE, 10-Pin Plug) Pin 2
DOOR TRIGGER BROWN (-) @ BODY ECU, (WHITE, 26-Pin Plug) Pin 24, NOTE #3

 

What about the tailgate? I just had the Viper system installed and everything works except the tailgate. I am bringing it back to the shop next week to correct but it would helpful if you know of the specific wire for the gate.

 

Is there any pictures of these harnesses on the net? What they look like and the locations? Also what sizes are these wires, I am going to use connectors rather then trying to solder.

 

the locations for those wires are listing in that post there. "Driver's Kick" etc.


Some are very small/thin. That list also shows the wire's pin location in the harness to find it.

Regardless of any list like that from DirectTech's, etc.. ALL wires should be TESTED via multimeter before connecting to your remote start connections.

TEST and VERIFY all connections with a multimeter!

 

There are wire kits available that will allow you to do a plug and play install. However you will need to have your bypass module programmed to work for our trucks. Some places will do this when you purchase from them and some won't.

 

@TacoBlack Are there really "plug and play" remote start options for our trucks (mines an 07)? I've always wanted a remote start but get worried about someone not knowing what their doing and burning something up..

I should also say. I don't want OEM..

 

OK.. I got the wires that need to be spliced into the truck, now I need some help with the dball2 to the remote starter. Here is what I have came up with. pin 3 from harness 12 on dball2 goes to H1/8, harness 12 pin 5 goes to H3/2, Harness 12 pin 6 goes to H3/3, and Harness 12 pin 12 goes to H3/4. Do I need the E-brake status even though my truck is an automatic? And also I am having trouble figuring out what the GWR output wire is on my remote starter.

 

doesnt this remote starter stop the engine before you turn the key?

 

No, The engine stays running. When you turn the Key to the ON position (NOT CRANK), then press the brake pedal as you would to shift out of park, the pressing of the break pedal turns off the Remote Start unit.

The ignition of the vehicle is all electrical, so to keep it simple.. Remote Start turns on and runs ignition, then when you turn the key ON, you are turning on the ignition yourself, electrically.. So by turning OFF the remote start, the vehicle still stays on as the Ignition is still ON.

.

 

http://fortin.ca/en/vehicles/toyota/tundra/2013/

If you flash this unit with the 79.15 software, you can have remote start off your factory key fob even though it isn't listed on their site. I just installed it in my 13 using their t harness so no cutting of the ignition harness is required. Just 5 connections are needed


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What did this cost you?

 

no tailgate lock (powered) from toyota and theres no pin switch either. those have to be added aftermarket.

 

I confirm this, got the viper installed as well + window modules as well (windows down and you lock it then all windows go up).

 

A pin switch would be a waste of time and effort as they all corrode. I'd say going with a magnetic switch would be the best way to do it.


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heh, no corrosion here. stock dont corrode really either and those are pin switches. then again california we dont see as much of the harsh elements.

 

wires can easily be run into the tailgate via the rear camera harness. while your in there do the tailgate open mod. very slick.

 

Very true, I was thinking more in terms of an aftermarket pin switch with that last post


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done. but since the lazerlite cover seals against the tailgate a mere power lock is all thats needed.

 

just in case you never seen this.
DIY: Automatic Tailgate and Unlock/Lock Projects with Pics..

 

I've seen it, but the lazerlite tonneau cover has a seal that requires using just a bit more force to open the tailgate then what that mode would allow for. Theres other ways to do it with springs and such but my use of the truck really doesnt call for that. right on though.