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2010 5.7 limp mode, air injection system

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4.3K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  fpalermo616  
#1 ·
Howdy! This is my first post so I hope this is the right place. Over the past few days I've read over 50 pages of posts in this and other similar forums. I'm looking for info about a 2010 Tundra 5.7 engine with ~130k miles on it.

A little over a year ago we started getting limp mode errors. The mechanic diagnosed it as air pump #1 and replaced it. Problems were gone for a while. A few months ago, we started having more limp mode problems. This time the mechanic diagnosed it as air pump #2 and replaced it. Again, problems were gone ... for a while. Now we're getting limp mode again.

In all my recent reading about air injection problems, I have not found a single really definitive statement about what condition or simultaneous conditions are necessary to trigger limp mode. It SEEMS to me that limp mode is triggered by two things simultaneously: a pump that is not running at some given time, AND the related air valve being open at the same time. (That combination would allow pressure pulses from the exhaust to reach the pressure sensor.) Is that an accurate summary?

If that's incorrect, or incomplete, will someone please explain clearly what situation triggers limp mode.

And yes, I've read numerous posts about the various bypass techniques and kits. They're very interesting options! But first I need to ascertain whether one (or both) of the air valves might be stuck open. Hopefully understanding the relation between the air valves and limp mode will help me figure that out.

Thanks in advance for any clarification about how this &%#@$^& system works!
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks, Mike. The bypass solution sounds very "interesting" to me. I was not previously aware of what a convoluted POS the SAIS is. That's why we had a mechanic replace the two pumps when they (apparently) went bad in the past (bank 1 was ~a year ago, bank 2 was ~2 months ago). This was a local guy, not a stealership, so he probably did not use OEM parts. I'm going to talk with him next week, to find out whether he ever checked the valves. I suspect he did not, since getting to them is such a PITA. Once I find out exactly what he did, and whether one of the (newish) pumps is actually bad, I'll decide how to proceed.

Out of curiosity, do most or all new vehicles (all makes and models) have some sort of SAIS? If so, I wonder whether other SAIS systems are so likely to fail, and whether they are as freaking inaccessible as these are. It's a damned shame my '86 Ford Stepside 2WD isn't big enough to pull our horse trailer ;-) But unfortunately I'm stuck needing some sort of 4x4 in the forseeable future.

Where is the SAIS air intake on the latest version of this truck? Is it less likely to get water into the system?

Thanks again for the helpful info!
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
We got a code reader from Amazon. Quickly found codes showing both valves stuck open, and Bank 1 pump stuck off. Everything worked fine up to ~120k miles, and we're now ~133k miles. I suppose it's possible that this is an electrical issue, e.g. chewed wires or failed sensors. No way for me to tell that since I would need to do some excavation to get to the wires. However, I'll meet with the mechanic tomorrow and discuss the whole situation with him. I suspect he won't be willing to install the block-off plates because he's a state licensed inspection mechanic and won't want to risk losing the license. IMHO the next best option would be for him to remove both pumps and both valves, and let me be present to examine them and come up with a definite plan, rather than having him proceed on his own without keeping me in the loop.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
If you're going to have your mechanic pull the valves then you might as well have him replace it. The whole job is pulling out the old valve and putting in a new one. The difficult part is getting to them but to be honest, it wasn't that difficult when I replaced mine. You basically take the top engine cover off and you'll see it right there at the very back of the motor.

This is what they look like and good luck!

 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thanks very much for all the suggestions and information!

To recap where things stand today:
Our mechanic isn't willing to do the bypass because of his state inspection license; he is going to replace the one failed pump (parts warranty); he will replace the valve assembly but he quoted us a price on OEM part.

I would be willing to use 3rd-party part, but would prefer it from a local brick-and-mortar store where it can be returned in case of a future warranty issue. Can anybody here comment on getting the valve assembly from NAPA, Auto Zone, etc., in terms of price, reliability, etc.?

Thanks again for all the very valuable help so far!!! Great community!!!