For me, do the work yourself. Take your time, watch some YouTube videos to see how others suggest doing it, then take a Saturday and get er done. You will be more careful and do a better job than most shops.

Remember, there is nothing you can't take apart that you cannot pay to have someone put back together.

From previous timing belt jobs I have done, you need to be careful not to let the cams turn as you take the old belt off and put the new ones on. Many times, they are at the "top" of the spring compression, so if you rotate them either way, they will snap turn maybe 30 degrees or so, and this is an interference engine, so that could ram a valve into a piston (maybe, not always, but tried to avoid this). I did exactly this on my wife Honda a couple months ago. It did not hurt anything, but it happened easy and quick so try to avoid that.

All your rubber parts are probably either at their due date or past their due date, so it makes sense to change them all out.

For me, I plan to run my tensioners, idler wheels, water pump, starter, until they outright fail. Those parts are designed to go hundreds of thousand miles and decades of age, so I plan to let them ride until they fail. You are at both hundreds of thousands of miles and decades, so it is hard to predict how long they will last. For me, doing the work myself is free and I enjoy doing it, so I am letting then run to failure. But you can certainly make a case for changing all of that now.

 

Thank you for the reply. I plan to replace anything I take off. Everything is original on the truck. For the cam jumping I have a cam pulley holder that I plan to lock in place and then remove the belt and replace the belt from the top. I also plan to remove the spark plugs since I use copper ones and replace them every 30k miles. They are so cheap and easy to replace is why I use copper. I will post how well impact gun takes off the crank bolt.

thanks
Eric

 

I have never done the crank bolt on a 4.7 Toyota. But my wife's Honda was a bear. They suggested buying an extra strong socket that would impart more force to the bolt and that was supposed to get it off. I tried it with a regular chrome socket and an impact socket, and no Bueno. I also bought a special socket that fits the crank pully ID so you can keep the engine from turning while you either install or remove that bolt. That did not work either.

I saw a video of a guy using the starter to turn the engine with a breaker bar on the bolt and against the frame. I eventually tried it. My Honda has a push button start so I had to hit the button and hit it again right away so it did not start. I practiced that several times and once I felt I could shut it off quick, I tried it and it worked.

I have to admit, it took some guts to give that a try. I had visions of that breaker bar flying around and doing all kinds of damage, or worse, finding the bolt head gone and just the remnant of the remaining bolt still in the crank.

To put it back on, the torque spec was more than I can measure so I just rammed it on with the biggest Mac tools impact I have turned all the way up to full go, and then had my son use his Beast O Matic Milwaukee impact on it about a week later to make sure it was still tight. Neither of us have ever been able to turn that bolt since. I think it is on to stay.

Good luck. But start with that bolt. It is the one thing that can stop the show.

 

The only good news is that I had it done by a Toyota mechanic 80,000 miles ago, so he had to get it off last time.

 

That's ambitious!
Sounds like you have a great grasp on this rebuild. The cam seals and under manifold work will be the real tests but should in total get you to 400K on engine easy!
Following.

 

Thanks, xsnrg714. After thinking about it I'm going to wait on the cam seals unless they are leaking and the starter when it starts to give trouble.

 

Sound decision. If any question, change those seals while in there at 200K.
Concentrating on the Full TB Job you have planned will be great effort enuf!
Removing Intake stuff can definitely wait.
Knock it out of the park Eric!!!

 

Sound decision. If any question, change those seals while in there at 200K.
Concentrating on the Full TB Job you have planned will be great effort enuf!
Removing Intake stuff can definitely wait.
Knock it out of the park Eric!!!

Wait this is the 200K timing belt...seals?

Eric