[TKR Reptiles]

Okay I have been doing some reading on here and found a PDF telling you how to do the ZPC... It is a bit confusing, and what I am wondering is if you have a tech stream can you use it to do this? It appears in the PDF you can, but as I said the PDF is a bit confusing.

Here is the PDF

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...-lift-issue-fix-confirmed-vsc-calibration.pdf


It appears like this is all you have to do, but seems a bit too good to be true, or too easy???

2. CLEAR ZERO POINT CALIBRATION DATA (WHEN USING TECHSTREAM)
(a) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to ON.
(c) Operate the Techstream to erase the codes (select Reset Memory).

 

[TKR Reptiles]

Nobody know?

 

[tridacna]

You can do it with techstream or a paperclip.

 

[TKR Reptiles]

Thanks!

 

[tridacna]

No problem. Don't forget to tip.

 

[jwoutdoors]

I've tried performing the vsc calibration with the check wire a couple times. I am following the instructions in the tsb that is floating around. After you clear it, turn the ignition off, insert wire, then turn the ignition back on, it says there will be a buzzer for 3 seconds. Is this one solid buzz for 3 seconds or beeps off and on for 3 second?

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[jbroas]

It was 3 short Beeps.. that signaled you that it was done/calibrated..

 

[doubleds65]

Here are instructions that r a little more simple n works perfect, I know cause I've done it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvtwFVT1Q10&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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[jwoutdoors]

Thanks jbroas, that's what I was looking for.

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[fiveIXzero]

Ok so heres my experience w/ the ZPC. I have a CM 5.7 SR5 4WD. I installed the 7" BDS w/ 35x12.5 tires. I had noticed some power loss after the lift. I believed it to be the tires because what power I lost seemed about right for the lift and tires. I did not have any dash lights or experience any other issues as mentioned in this thread while driving. I did all I could to make a dash light or reaction from the trucks computer to happen and I did not observe anything. With the truck being brand new w/ 6k miles on it, I was very nervous about shorting a circuit. Rytesyde gave me great advice and w/ much confidence he convinced me to do the ZPC. I used the paper clip method and followed the "skip to step 4" on the above mentioned PDF. All went well and the ZPC was successful on the first try. I hopped in the drivers seat and immediately noticed the difference w/ nannies doing what nannies do. I then de-nannied the truck and WOW! I spun the 35's w/ WOT from a stand still while turning. Yes it was a turn, but I had to let off. Toyo's aren't cheap! Anyway, I could not do that prior to the ZPC. On the highway I observed better pick up and factory like response from the truck. For anyone that is nervous, trust me I understand. But I would recommend the ZPC. Hope this helps anyone with concern about this topic. Thanks again Rytesyde!

 

[Insolent Minx]

FiveIXZero, did you do anything different from the youtube video that doubleds65 posted earlier in the thread? Thanks for the feedback. I am going to do this today. I just want to make sure I get all the info correct.

Thanks again,
The Minx

 

[doubleds65]

The video that I posted is exactly how I did my zpc, cause the connection on the scion in that vid is exactly the same as the tundra

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[Insolent Minx]

Thanks Doubleds65. I will check that out.

The Minx

 

[fiveIXzero]

FiveIXZero, did you do anything different from the youtube video that doubleds65 posted earlier in the thread? Thanks for the feedback. I am going to do this today. I just want to make sure I get all the info correct.

Thanks again,
The Minx

No, thats about it. Key on, insert paper clip 4 times w in 8 sec and key off. Turn key back on and look for traction light to blink.

 

[c0astie31]

I think u might have forgot a step, I did this

I cut 2 pieces of wire like 2 foot long and inserted one wire into spot 4 one wire into spot 12,

Turn car on and tap the wires 4 times within 8 seconds, lights will go on, once they go off turn truck off

Next connect the 2 wires and then turn key to on, u should get 3 chimes. Once u get that u are good, turn key off then disconnect the battery and wait a few seconds and reconnect

U should be good,

If I am wrong please let me know

 

[Insolent Minx]

C0astie31, that is way cool ride you have. I looked at all those photos you posted. There is some dollarz sunk into that machine!

Anyway, looking at the .pdf that TKR Reptiles posted earlier http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...alibration.pdf it shows that your complete procedure is the correct one if you follow all the instructions on the calibration.pdf document.

Thanks again for the awesome photos and info.

The Minx

 

[MontanaTundra]

Wow

You can do it in tech stream. You go into the abs/vsc I think is what it said. Then you reset the codes and then go into test mode to complete it. Make sure you do both steps or you will have the vsc, abs, and the ebrake light on after you do the first step only. This is definitely highly recommended. I feel like I have my truck back again! I only have the bilstein 5100s on the middle setting and that was enough to make a huge difference after I did it. Do it if you haven't. You won't regret it!

 

[dirtydeeds]

hmm, subscribed. Now that I've almost leveled my truck, just Kings up front, back is stock, front is about 1/4" lower than back compared to back being way higher before level, and now my a/f ratio goes lean/rich much more than it did. before it would stay almost 14.7/1 nearly perfectly. Now it bounces around a lot more. Full throttle is still around 12/1, but idle and mellow cruise definitely bounces around a lot more. So idk, unless there's another problem, or an exhaust leak that just happened at the same time??

I can't say I've really noticed a power loss or anything. But Idk.

 

[fiveIXzero]

hmm, subscribed. Now that I've almost leveled my truck, just Kings up front, back is stock, front is about 1/4" lower than back compared to back being way higher before level, and now my a/f ratio goes lean/rich much more than it did. before it would stay almost 14.7/1 nearly perfectly. Now it bounces around a lot more. Full throttle is still around 12/1, but idle and mellow cruise definitely bounces around a lot more. So idk, unless there's another problem, or an exhaust leak that just happened at the same time??

I can't say I've really noticed a power loss or anything. But Idk.

I would definitely start with the ZPC and go from there.


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[RyteSyde]

hmm, subscribed. Now that I've almost leveled my truck, just Kings up front, back is stock, front is about 1/4" lower than back compared to back being way higher before level, and now my a/f ratio goes lean/rich much more than it did. before it would stay almost 14.7/1 nearly perfectly. Now it bounces around a lot more. Full throttle is still around 12/1, but idle and mellow cruise definitely bounces around a lot more. So idk, unless there's another problem, or an exhaust leak that just happened at the same time??

I can't say I've really noticed a power loss or anything. But Idk.

Keith, get up to a steady 30 mph for a few seconds and then floor it. Does it accelerate steady or does it bog at all? fiveIXzero's cutout was very noticeable. After the ZPC it was back to being awesome. Toyota recommends doing it even after making alignment changes even though most people you will talk to at a dealership will have no idea what it is.