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Looking for 4.5 in or 3 inch with like a +18 offsett
If it's a strut lift it actually doesn't improve clearance when you hit a bump. Contrary to popular belief. The drop-bracket lift would help though.

Alignment, UCAs, offset, wheel width, and exact tire dimensions are all important factors.

For any 35 expect to remove mudflaps and push liner forward. You might need to cut the body mounting depending on details.

Yes, all 5x150.
 

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Im on a 2.5 coil with uppers and nitto 35's and I've had to cut the body and push the front forward. I just got CB shims to push it to 3" and I think ill be fine. I just have minor rubbing now. I had some Atturo XT 35's and had no rubbing but the nitto are wider.
 

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Until you hit a bump.
Minor rubbing on plastic only at a certain turns does not bother me it will correct itself. I've beat this thing in the desert and had no chipping of tires so I'm good.
 

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Ya, just pointing out that checking in the parking lot doesn't cut it if you really don't want it to rub.

The way it "self corrects" is to wear a hole in the plastic. If you ever have rocks, mud, or snow stuck to your tires (doesn't everyone?) then extra clearance is a good idea. But I'm planning on cutting it close myself and dealing with the consequences later.
 

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I have a 4 1/2" lift with 35's and stock shocks. Just a little rub on rear body mount at full lock. Some folks will cut and weld in that area. For the front, I pushed the bumper out with washers and drilled new holes for the plastic


 

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If it's a strut lift it actually doesn't improve clearance when you hit a bump. Contrary to popular belief. The drop-bracket lift would help though.

Alignment, UCAs, offset, wheel width, and exact tire dimensions are all important factors.

For any 35 expect to remove mudflaps and push liner forward. You might need to cut the body mounting depending on details.

Yes, all 5x150.
What do you mean by strut lift and drop-bracket lift?

Like diff drop? strut spacer? knuckles? Just curious
 

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What do you mean by strut lift and drop-bracket lift?
Wish I had some good pictures handy...

A strut lift (usually 3" or less) just lengthens the strut or increases the spring preload (either via spacers or new struts). At max suspension compression, the tire will still come up far enough so the hub (widest part of the tire) is even with the stuff you are worried about hitting (body mount, front liner, etc).

The bracket lifts lower your whole suspension system relative to the frame and are typically 6" or more. On a 6" lift for instance the tire will be 6" lower at max compression relative to the frame, and that can buy you some clearance.
 
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Wish I had some good pictures handy...



A strut lift (usually 3" or less) just lengthens the strut or increases the spring preload (either via spacers or new struts). At max suspension compression, the tire will still come up far enough so the hub (widest part of the tire) is even with the stuff you are worried about hitting (body mount, front liner, etc).



The bracket lifts lower your whole suspension system relative to the frame and are typically 6" or more. On a 6" lift for instance the tire will be 6" lower at max compression relative to the frame, and that can buy you some clearance.

Man I really wish there was a good primer on suspension/lift/leveling options for noob non-mechanically inclined people to learn. I've been reading up and I'm still lost. Ended up putting 3/1 leveling spacers. Doesn't increase travel but raises it enough to easily clear 35's and give the frame/body more clearance. I off-road but only casually so I didn't think I needed more. Would still like to better understand options for future mods.

@OP: I think the biggest determining factor on putting 35's without rubbing comes from the wheel offset. I put on 35 x 12.5 on Rock Warrior rims and all I had to do was trim/bend/cut the skid plate, remove mud flaps from front tires, remove a tiny black flap to the front of the tire, and push the plastic wheel well cover towards the front bumper by literally 1 inch on the drivers side only. Just push it to the front, drill another hole, and reinsert screws. Even at stock height the tires fit just fine.

The next important factor is the actual width of the tire. The Nitto Ridge Grapplers are labeled at 12.5 but actually come a bit narrower. And those tires give me like an inch+ clearance from the Upper Control Arm. Enough for daily driving, maybe not enough for hardcore off-roading though.

Disclaimer: That's on a '13 Tundra


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Man I really wish there was a good primer on suspension/lift/leveling options for noob non-mechanically inclined people to learn. I've been reading up and I'm still lost. Ended up putting 3/1 leveling spacers. Doesn't increase travel but raises it enough to easily clear 35's and give the frame/body more clearance. I off-road but only casually so I didn't think I needed more. Would still like to better understand options for future mods.
See if this helps: http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...t-lifts-tire-size-wheel-offset-clearance.html

As you said, wheel offset is very important! Your wheels have a +50mm offset, so they stick out 0.4" more than the other stock rims. That's why you have better clearance to the UCA and skid. And if they stuck out more you'd have more interference issues fore and aft.

Tires marked as 35x12.5 typically are 34.6" x 12.5" on 10" rims, and the section width varies ~40% of the rim width. So on your 8" rims I'd expect the tires to be ~12.5-(2"x.4)= 11.7" wide.

The best low budget low hassle lift for bigger tires (and decent offroad performance) is 5100s on the middle setting (~1.8" of lift), and no lift on the rear. Stock UCAs will be fine. You can drop the diff if you want but it isn't necessary.
 
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I did the Zone Offriod 5in lift with Nitto Ridge Grapplers: 35x12.5x18 on +12 wheels. No body mount rubbing, just had to remove the small plastic mudflaps and a little bid of modification to the fender liner. I like the overall result.
 

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