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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to get vehicle specific info on this subject. I have a 2007 Jayco 19H TT that we will be taking on a 14 day road trip in June/July, and typically take quite a few trips per year (had a new daughter in December so our camping is slow right now). I have been towing it with my CM with Airlifts and a Toytec AAL without any sagging issues but have decided that the benefits in an emergency situation make the WDH worth purchasing. Trailer has a GVWR of 4550#, with a 15% TW that would give me around 683# TW without anything in the bed when fully loaded. I am looking at Camco WDH's with 800# bars and 1000# bars. The 1000# bars are about $40 less and have more wiggle room, but are they too much for this setup? Can I jump up to the 1000# bars or stick with the 800# bars?
 

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When I bought my camper the dealer put on the Reese dual cam wdh system. Been happy with it so far. I think it has 1500 bars. I would go with the higher weight bars just for piece of mind. I have added airbags, but haven't been on a road trip yet. Planning on going in two weeks to pigeon forge tn if it hasn't burned down lol.


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I have an Outback 300bh - 32'8" with the Reece Dual Cam - 800lb bars. No issues what so ever....possibly trading in 08 dbl for 13 dbl, then adding Timbrens in the rear.
 

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I use a Reese Weight Distributing hitch with Dual Cam Sway control and 800 lb bars for my 8.5' x 20' enclosed car trailer (about 5,500 lbs).

Before buying the bars you might want to either borrow or buy a trailer tongue scale and measure the actual tongue weight of your fully loaded trailer. Doing this measurement gives you an accurate tongue weight and takes the guessing out of it. Using a scale also gives you the ability/opportunity to redistribute the weight inside your TT should it be too tongue heavy.

I purchased one of these scales (about $100) and have used it for my trailer. The first time I used it I was VERY surprised how tongue heavy my trailer was. By making some simple adjustments, I was able to reduce my tongue weight significantly which was easier for me since I have a car trailer.
 

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You and I have almost identical travel trailers and I use the 1000 pound setup and it works very well. You could probably get away with using the 800 pound bars but the extra support will be good to have, especially on longer trips when you may end up with more weight in your bed.
 

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I would go with the 1000 lbs bars. You said they were cheaper, and how much weight you put on the bars is determined by the number of chains you use to connect the bars. I typically "hang" 3 or 4 chains. The more I use, the more weight is taken off the hitch and thrown to the camper and front axel. I experimented with my set up and have found that with the camper slightly angled down and the truck level, I get the best ride with little to no sway.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys! I went ahead and ordered the 1000# setup. Are they hard to setup on the trailer the first time? I've never actually set it up on a trailer that didn't already have a WDH.
 

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I drop 4 links with my 800's. Pretty level ride...minor dip. loaded bed with 3 coolers of beer, wood, grill, blocks.

 

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2012 DC, 2X. Three links as shown on signature, anti sway thing on hitch, and Helwig Anti-sway bar on rear. 26 ft Nomad and Artic Cat 300DVX.

Otherwise, stock.

Pulls fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Headed to Sierra Expeditions now to have it installed. Looks super easy, but those are some big ass bolts and crazy TQ specs for them. I will let the pros handle that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Amazon sent the wrong one so it is going back. After speaking with a buddy of mine that drives a semi for a living I may go without the WDH as originally planned. I am at 42/42 in the front and 42.5/42.5 in the rear with 30psi and no trailer. 42/42 in the front and 41.75/41.75 in the rear with trailer. The front not changing means that little to no weight is being removed from the front axle when the trailer is added, and the small amount of sagging can be fixed with more air pressure if needed.
 

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I believe that the receiver on our Tundras is rated at 500 lbs without WDH and 1050 with WDH. If your estimate is correct for your tongue weight you will be over the rating of the receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You are correct. Note that I figured quite high for the TW, true TW is likely under 450# as my trailer keeps a true 10% of GVWR due to axle position (unloaded rates are 3800/383 according to Jayco). I doubt greatly that the tongue weight ever gets as high as the 15% I listed as a CYA (cover your ass) number, and the true number for the Tundra receiver is also likely much higher than 500# in the manual. My dual battery setup has also been relocated off the tongue saving quite a bit of weight off that position. I plan on making a trip to a rock yard and get an accurate number shortly.
 

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Just wondering what you are going to do about controlling sway if you do not invest in the WDH with sway control?
 

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How much did your complete WHD setup cost you? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I bought the Camco WDH on Amazon for 200 shipped. Sent it back and likely will go with a trunion style so I don't lose so much ground clearance, and most likely get 600 or 800# bars vs the 1000# I previously bought.
 

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hey guys how much should the rear end be squatting using the dual cam system..mine drops more than 2 1/2 inches. and the front about 1/2 inch.is this normal or should i tilt the bars down more to get more leverage..if i do will i squat less in rear?

also is the main goal to level out the truck from front and rear measuring the fender to ground?
 
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