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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know if I am doing something wrong, I never stand on my brakes, in fact I downshift when going down hills and some how I've warped my rotors. This same thing happened to my 2010. Larger tires added increased rotating mass? I live in an somewhat "hilly" area. One of the highways I drive often has a pretty good grade and I sometimes exit at the bottom. The off ramp is short so I am sure the brakes get toasty when I am exiting. I never hose the wheels down when they are hot. Other than that I can't figure it out, the truck has 16K on her, and is almost a year old.

Anyone else?
 
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Cereal Killer
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Junk OEM rotors. Some better aftermarket replacements when the time comes should solve the problem.
 

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Try getting the rotors wet so they form a layer of nice surface rust and then do a couple hard stops once they've had a chance to dry off (just to make sure the iron face of the rotor has corroded as much as it's going to in a reasonable amount of time) Sometimes "warped" is just uneven pad material transfer and the rust makes a decent abrasive, it's a quick and dirty trick but it sometimes works
 

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I don't know if I am doing something wrong, I never stand on my brakes, in fact I downshift when going down hills and some how I've warped my rotors. This same thing happened to my 2010. Larger tires added increased rotating mass? I live in an somewhat "hilly" area. One of the highways I drive often has a pretty good grade and I sometimes exit at the bottom. The off ramp is short so I am sure the brakes get toasty when I am exiting. I never hose the wheels down when they are hot. Other than that I can't figure it out, the truck has 16K on her, and is almost a year old.

Anyone else?
I warped mine at 18,000 miles. Live in Colorado and have been up and back to Breckenridge/Beaver Creek numerous times (the dreaded I-70). Like you, I think I drive carefully, never stand on the brakes or ride them down the hill, but somehow they warped. Knew it the moment I felt the pedal shudder. Dealer did replace rotors and pads under warranty.

I'm looking for a high performance set of rotors and pads now for the front - all suggestions welcome.

I do change my own oil and do tire rotation and to be honest, did not torque the lug nuts last rotation...
 

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Common problem. Try some aftermarket rotors
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The lug nut theory makes me think. I always torque them, though my wrench hasn't been calibrated. Also, the Method wheels I have have A LOT of weights, telling me they weren't very balanced from the factory.

I can also see how over torquing lugs can warp a rotor.

I'll have to take it in and have the wheels balanced again before the rotors are changed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I also should have noted that I can only feel it once the rotors get hot, normal city driving is not affected. Only under moderate to heavy braking, and once the rotors are hot.

I did also have to panic stop to avoid a woman barreling through a red light. Those massive brakes saved my ass. The guy next to me wasn't so lucky. She hit him spun then hit 2 more cars. You couldn't slide a piece of paper between her mirror and my front bumper, that's how close it was. I was only going 10-15mph tops as I just started off from a stop.
 

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I also should have noted that I can only feel it once the rotors get hot, normal city driving is not affected. Only under moderate to heavy braking, and once the rotors are hot.

I did also have to panic stop to avoid a woman barreling through a red light. Those massive brakes saved my ass. The guy next to me wasn't so lucky. She hit him spun then hit 2 more cars. You couldn't slide a piece of paper between her mirror and my front bumper, that's how close it was. I was only going 10-15mph tops as I just started off from a stop.
The brakes on my 14 have been much better than my 07. The 07 warped slightly within the first 5,000 miles. I lived with it till it got time to replace them. Mine did the same thing. Generally they worked fine without any vibration until you got into stop and go traffic or had to brake continuelly for sometime.

I went with the powerstop brake kits. I loved them. Smooth. Smoothest set of brakes I've ever owned. I put about 10,000 miles on them before I traded for a 14. Get zinc coated rotors no matter what you buy. The stock rotors really rust over time and that might have something to do with how they mate to the flange on the axle. Make sure you clean that area really well when you change them.
 

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You guys kill me. The OEM rotors are some of/if not the biggest and best in the 1/2 ton market. Chances are yours aren't warped at all - especially on a 14. RichBot is most likely right you have buildup on them from not stopping hard enough and getting the rotors burned off.

If by chance they are warped and you want to replace them I used Centric Premiums but I didn't change my fronts until well past 60K miles.
Amazon.com: Centric Parts 120.44156 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating: Automotive
 

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You guys kill me. The OEM rotors are some of/if not the biggest and best in the 1/2 ton market. Chances are yours aren't warped at all - especially on a 14. RichBot is most likely right you have buildup on them from not stopping hard enough and getting the rotors burned off.

If by chance they are warped and you want to replace them I used Centric Premiums but I didn't change my fronts until well past 60K miles.
Amazon.com: Centric Parts 120.44156 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating: Automotive
I do not know about the new style 14 but I know about half dozen people with 2nd gen and everyone goes through rotors.
I've been a foreign car tech for 27 year. "Buildup on them from not stopping hard enough and getting the rotors burned off" is one of the must ridiculous things I've herd for a cause of rotors warping. Rotors warp because of overheating.
 
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I do not know about the new style 14 but I know about half dozen people with 2nd gen and everyone goes through rotors.
I've been a foreign car tech for 27 year. "Buildup on them from not stopping hard enough and getting the rotors burned off" is one of the must ridiculous things I've herd for a cause of rotors warping. Rotors warp because of overheating.
Congratulations you're a "foreign car tech". Doesn't change the fact that these rotors are huge on our trucks. You shouldn't be warping them in the first 50K miles. Its probably pulsing from the buildup on the surface because they aren't getting to the proper operating temp. I never said they were "Warping because of buildup".

Go read some of SoCal's threads (recognized as one of the most knowledgeable forum contributors) on breaks/break rotors and usage before you come on here and insult me.

I've owned my 07 since it had 5400 miles on the OD. I tow with it 20-30 times per year and only replaced the front rotors at 60K+ because my pad life was getting close to the end and I didn't want to wait and have to change them in the middle of winter AND rather than resurface it was less of a hassle to just order replacement rotors.

Hell i've got the factory rotors still in the box in my garage. If the OP wants them I'll give them to him FOR FREE if he wants to pay shipping. I assure you they have life left in them and are nowhere near warped. :)
 
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Won't congratulate me on that not what I want to be doing anymore just good at it but that's a whole another thing.
I know the rotors are big but they still wrap. Rotor now a days on most manufacturers are made in China or some place such as and are made from recycled metal. They wrap and rot right off the car truck, 20 years ago cars were heavier brakes were smaller but did not warp like they do today.
 

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Rotor now a days on most manufacturers are made in China or some place such as and are made from recycled metal. They wrap and rot right off the car truck, 20 years ago cars were heavier brakes were smaller but did not warp like they do today.
Ding ding ding!! Here is your correct answer. :D
 

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I do not know about the new style 14 but I know about half dozen people with 2nd gen and everyone goes through rotors.
I've been a foreign car tech for 27 year. "Buildup on them from not stopping hard enough and getting the rotors burned off" is one of the must ridiculous things I've herd for a cause of rotors warping. Rotors warp because of overheating.
True, however the thicker the rotor to more heat it can retain and dissipate. And the Tundra rotors are THICK. What makes a rotor good/bad is the design, materials, thermal characteristics and wear properties.

I'm merely saying that I've not seen anything from the Tundra rotors to suggest they are anything but thick, of good design, dissipate heat and wear well.
 
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Warping isn't necessarily from overheating as much as it is rapid change in temperature, heating up or cooling down too fast.

Driving technique has a lot to do with this too. If you are on the brakes constantly but lightly you will warp your brakes. If you get on them once and a while too aggressively you can warp them too. So many factors I wont get into it here.

Just look here for lifetime warrantied brakes. I've used them on my past trucks and cars and never had a warped rotor ever again.

Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
 

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Won't congratulate me on that not what I want to be doing anymore just good at it but that's a whole another thing.
I know the rotors are big but they still wrap. Rotor now a days on most manufacturers are made in China or some place such as and are made from recycled metal. They wrap and rot right off the car truck, 20 years ago cars were heavier brakes were smaller but did not warp like they do today.
I don't think the guy has ever put a dial indicator on a rotor to check it. Its easy to check the run out. Impregnated brake dust/material will not cause the run outs you'll find on a warped router.
 
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