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Unsure which lift/level kit is best, help?

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135K views 61 replies 17 participants last post by  Indy443  
#13 ·
If you just want a level truck, the OME 612 coils should do just that. Mine sits level with a 112 lb brush guard up front. Maybe a little lower in the front (fraction of an inch).

The OMEs are definitely a sweet ride and although stiffer than stock, it is very controlled.

-rockstate
 
#18 ·
Removing mudflaps is no big deal. Your rear mud flaps will be able to stay intact, but likely you'll lose the first set of front mud flaps to any set of tires that are wider than stock. The rears would probably be fine. As a personal preference, I ditched mine front and rear. I later put the rears on after about a year for a few reasons... rock chips on a brand new paint job were one.

A set of 295/70/18s look pretty good on a OME 612 lift, but it almost looks a bit stuffed. If you have $1500, go with a set of 305/65/18 BFGs...

My next set of tires will honestly be (unless I change my mind) a set of 295/65/18 Goodyear Duratracs. I like the bigger tire of my Nitto, but the Goodyear is probably going to be a bit more proportional. Cost will be the final factor.

-rockstate
 
#22 ·
Don't forget the ACTUAL size of the 305/65/18 Falkens are like 33.2" tall, and NOT 33.7" like the 305/65/18 BFGs.

The Nittos measure over 34" I believe but can't remember the exact spec on it. (34.4??)

Anyway, wandering MIGHT be due to the alignment, tread design, or potentially the width. (Socal, wanna chime in here?)

Either way, I like my Nittos a lot, and even more so for hte price I paid for 'em. I still have between 9-11/32nds on 'em and have a good chunk of mileage on 'em (over 20 now I believe).

-rockstate
 
#26 ·
In a nutshell since I'm typing from phone, you're golden with the 612s. What I was likely referring to was the fact that the shocks aren't long enough for the extended length of the coils but due to no one with the setup complaining of such, I wouldn't worry about it. The one Is a great setup
 
#28 ·
Yeah, the 612s and 614s should be just fine.

The higher you go outside 3", the more you risk not being able to get an alignment. At any rate, the 612s are a great coil.

Had a guy at the McDonald's drive through ask me about my fuel economy haha. Poor guy was in disbelief.

-rockstate
 
#31 ·
Krinkles, hopefully socal will chime in, but from what I understand on the alignment numbers (as well as what works on my truck), go with

Camber: 0.0/0.1 and try to keep it as close to that (if you have more offset on your wheels, you can get away with more camber). Naturally, it will settle toward the negative over time.

Toe: .12/.12 for total toe of .24. I think I'm at .15/.15/.30 and I'm fine right now.

Lastly, let them fix the caster. That'll control the drivability of it and you can fix wander and steering issues with it. Socal can do a much better job of explaining all of this, but make sure there is cross caster to compensate for road crown and just make sure it's within spec.

Hope that helps.

-rockstate
 
#34 ·
SirKrinkles said:
Great! Thanks for all the info guys, I'm going to pull the trigger on these pretty soon.

Quick question for you rockstate.. You said this in an earlier post: "The OMEs are definitely a sweet ride and although stiffer than stock, it is very controlled." How much stiffer are they? I've been talking to Metalhead about his ride and he said "I can not stress this enough my truck rides like a 3/4 ton solid front axle truck. There is NOTHING soft about the front end with these shocks." Sounds like there's no cushion effect at all..? :dunno:
Click to expand...
Hmm, it's been a little while since I've ridden in a 3/4 ton truck with a solid axle, but they're definitely pretty stiff.

The faster you hit a bump, the better they are. You'll be jiggled when moving slow on uneven pavement.. but hit that going faster, and you're golden.

Just the other day on the interstate, I was doing 85 on an overpass coming around a turn. Where the pavement changes, there's a bump and on both sides it really upsets every vehicle I've ever driven. The Tundra at 85 mph didn't even feel it whatsoever.. didn't shake the truck or upset the suspension. I heard my dash move but didn't feel it in the seats.

It's definitely twofold, and would buy the setup again. (wouldn't mind doing more expensive suspension but it's out of budget).

It's kind of hard for me to say whether or not you'll like 'em... but I do. My brother has driven my truck before a few times and always comments on how much better the truck drives (also rides) than stock. It keeps flatter than a lot of trucks in turns.

-rockstate
 
#37 ·
Ebenke, I think they perform well at speed but I've never been in a comparable ride. Fanciest setup I've been in is Fox resis on a '98 Wrangler and that thing would move offroad (better than my truck - but he's ruthless)..

Here's a pic of my setup with 74,500 miles on it. Installed somewhere in the mid 40s.

Image


-rockstate
 
#38 ·
No UCAs here. Took some trial and error to get an alignment guy capable of doing an alignment to Phil's specs but since I've done that, I haven't had an issue. I've got 7k+ miles on my tires without rotation and they're now starting to cup a little bit. Rotate tires at 4-5k and you're golden.

Oh, and I drive pretty hard so I'd imagine a lot of that is due to turning.

-rockstate
 
#56 ·
That guy shouldn't be installing lifts! Either way, find someone competent in NC to do it!

As far as the tires, I do miss the BFGs in terms of looks. I love the size of my Nittos, but the BFG is just such a classic looking tire. It's just SO damn hard to beat the price of the Nittos ($600 savings when I bought mine).

If total price was within $200 of each other, I'd go BFG.

Also, depending on tire size.. the BFG comes in a 305/65/18 and the Nitto in a 295/70/18 (What's on my truck now). The BFG is shorter but wider... the extra with does look good, but unless you saw them side by side, you'd probably not (emphasis on not) notice it.

-rockstate
 
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