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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2009 Tundra. Recently replaced the starter. Problem is as follows: Turn the key to start, hear the fuel pump go, the starter relay clicks, but nothing happens. Before I replaced the starter, what was happening was I would turn the key to start, nothing would happen for a second or so, then the starter would engage. What I had read pointed to the starter, but it has been replaced and it still happens. Battery is good, terminals have been cleaned and are tight, fuse seems good. Tried another starter relay, same thing. Starter does not roll over or engage. I am stumped. Any thoughts?
 

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2009 Tundra. Recently replaced the starter. Problem is as follows: Turn the key to start, hear the fuel pump go, the starter relay clicks, but nothing happens. Before I replaced the starter, what was happening was I would turn the key to start, nothing would happen for a second or so, then the starter would engage. What I had read pointed to the starter, but it has been replaced and it still happens. Battery is good, terminals have been cleaned and are tight, fuse seems good. Tried another starter relay, same thing. Starter does not roll over or engage. I am stumped. Any thoughts?
How did you test the battery? Does it maintain 12.6 volts or more overnight? How old is the battery? From the beginning, this sounded like a battery problem to me.
 

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Have you checked for solid electrical connections, particularly at the starter? I'd use a test light to check the ground. It sounds like an electrical issue.

Alternately, I haven't had much luck with remanufactured starters...I would consider testing the starter with a direct ground and positive charge. It may be defective.
 

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I think folks often believe that if the battery shows ANY sign of life, such as starter relay clicking, fuel pump engaging, then the battery has "enough juice" to start the vehicle. In this case a truck with a big engine. That just simply isn't the case kids. As OldGuy is eluding to. Please tell us the age of the battery. If you keep a good maintenance log then that is easy. If you don't then please further tell us that you're just estimating it's age.

And for the record, I can go ahead and tell you in advance that I've come across many a problem that was the battery, the battery was replaced, the problem persisted and the culprit ended up being the NEW battery. That itself had made it through quality control as good but actually was crap.

Again, age of battery please.

Further, check all connections for proper solid contact, that they're free of crap and then check that the wire(s) themselves haven't rubbed, become frayed and either failed or are grounding out on an adjacent surface. It happens.
 

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I think folks often believe that if the battery shows ANY sign of life, such as starter relay clicking, fuel pump engaging, then the battery has "enough juice" to start the vehicle. In this case a truck with a big engine. That just simply isn't the case kids...
Yep, what I'm talking about...clear signature of a weakening battery: Old starter wouldn't engage for a second or two, then engages...after a few more trys on that POS battery, a new starter won't engage at all, but solenoid clicks, and of course, that iddy-bitty motor on the fuel pump runs fine.

I know, it's hard to admit that you just dropped $200-$300 to replace a perfectly good starter, but if you're ever going to find the real problem, you're going to have to admit that you might have been wrong from the beginning. But, what do I know, I might be wrong too. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Battery holds 12.6 volts and is about a year old. I have only had the truck 6 months, but the last owner had replaced the battery because he thought it was bad, but in fact it was a problem with the lead battery clamp cracked. You have me thinking that this needs to be looked at a little closer. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think folks often believe that if the battery shows ANY sign of life, such as starter relay clicking, fuel pump engaging, then the battery has "enough juice" to start the vehicle. In this case a truck with a big engine. That just simply isn't the case kids. As OldGuy is eluding to. Please tell us the age of the battery. If you keep a good maintenance log then that is easy. If you don't then please further tell us that you're just estimating it's age.

And for the record, I can go ahead and tell you in advance that I've come across many a problem that was the battery, the battery was replaced, the problem persisted and the culprit ended up being the NEW battery. That itself had made it through quality control as good but actually was crap.

Again, age of battery please.

Further, check all connections for proper solid contact, that they're free of crap and then check that the wire(s) themselves haven't rubbed, become frayed and either failed or are grounding out on an adjacent surface. It happens.
Yep, what I'm talking about...clear signature of a weakening battery: Old starter wouldn't engage for a second or two, then engages...after a few more trys on that POS battery, a new starter won't engage at all, but solenoid clicks, and of course, that iddy-bitty motor on the fuel pump runs fine.

I know, it's hard to admit that you just dropped $200-$300 to replace a perfectly good starter, but if you're ever going to find the real problem, you're going to have to admit that you might have been wrong from the beginning. But, what do I know, I might be wrong too. ;)
Nothing would make me happier than it to be the battery or a bad connection. Right now the only thing that clicks when you turn the key is the starter relay, there is no starter solenoid click, or at least that I can hear. I will crawl under her and have a look tomorrow. As for being wrong, I have no problem being wrong, I have been wrong way too many time to let that bother me :)
Thanks.
 

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Battery holds 12.6 volts and is about a year old. I have only had the truck 6 months, but the last owner had replaced the battery because he thought it was bad, but in fact it was a problem with the lead battery clamp cracked. You have me thinking that this needs to be looked at a little closer. Thanks.
With your engine running (if/when you get it running), your system voltage should be over 14 volts. I had an 87 Vette (they all had sh*t alternators)...if that charging system didn't maintain around 14 volts, you were going to have slow crank/no start problems. At only 13.5 volts (Thats great voltage, right? Uh...No.), you were in the suburbs of Doodoo city.
 

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Not positive how the neutral safety is setup on these trucks but I've had them give similar symptoms on previous vehicles. Although I don't think the starter relay would click when trying to start it. Have you tried it in neutral?
 

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With your engine running (if/when you get it running), your system voltage should be over 14 volts. I had an 87 Vette (they all had sh*t alternators)...if that charging system didn't maintain around 14 volts, you were going to have slow crank/no start problems. At only 13.5 volts (Thats great voltage, right? Uh...No.), you were in the suburbs of Doodoo city.
Eggzactly ^^^.
 

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Nothing would make me happier than it to be the battery or a bad connection. Right now the only thing that clicks when you turn the key is the starter relay, there is no starter solenoid click, or at least that I can hear. I will crawl under her and have a look tomorrow. As for being wrong, I have no problem being wrong, I have been wrong way too many time to let that bother me :)
Thanks.
OK, at some point, if your battery gets weak enough, there ain't nothin' gonna click, glow, or run anymore. Put the battery on a charger, preferably overnight, at low charge rate (assumes you have a charger that automatically shuts off when charged).

I would then disconnect the battery cables, and use a multimeter to check the starter solenoid; check the continuity (ohms) of the solenoid coil (low amps, small wires)...if any value except 1 shows up on your meter, then your coil windings are at least intact and still conducting electricity. Then disconnect the large starter and ground cables from the solenoid, and check to see if you have continuity across the large cable terminals when you apply 12V to the coil terminal, i.e. 12V from the battery (+) to the coil supply (+) terminal and ground the other (-) terminal. If the meter stays at 1 when you're sure the coil has energized (clicked), then your starter solenoid is probably no bueno.

If your battery is good, I'm thinking your starter solenoid could be bad.
 

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Battery holds 12.6 volts and is about a year old. I have only had the truck 6 months, but the last owner had replaced the battery because he thought it was bad, but in fact it was a problem with the lead battery clamp cracked. You have me thinking that this needs to be looked at a little closer. Thanks.
One other thing...Do you mean that the previous owner had installed one of those cheesy aftermarket battery cables with the cast lead battery connectors? Those things are prehistoric and no manufacturers use those anymore...new cars all have zinc plated sheet metal connectors which look flimsy, but work pretty well with less corrosion problems. If you have one of those old-style cables on this truck, I would go to a Toyota dealership forthwith and get what the truck is supposed to have on it. JMHO.
 

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OK, at some point, if your battery gets weak enough, there ain't nothin' gonna click, glow, or run anymore. Put the battery on a charger, preferably overnight, at low charge rate (assumes you have a charger that automatically shuts off when charged).

I would then disconnect the battery cables, and use a multimeter to check the starter solenoid; check the continuity (ohms) of the solenoid coil (low amps, small wires)...if any value except 1 shows up on your meter, then your coil windings are at least intact and still conducting electricity. Then disconnect the large starter and ground cables from the solenoid, and check to see if you have continuity across the large cable terminals when you apply 12V to the coil terminal, i.e. 12V from the battery (+) to the coil supply (+) terminal and ground the other (-) terminal. If the meter stays at 1 when you're sure the coil has energized (clicked), then your starter solenoid is probably no bueno.

If your battery is good, I'm thinking your starter solenoid could be bad.
Ah, nuts :banghead:...Sorry, as you know, Toyota starter solenoids are integral with the starters like GM. If you replaced the starter, then you replaced the solenoid. Info above makes more sense with a Ford or lawnmower style solenoid.

Here, watch this youtube video (and others nearby), covers the entire diagnostic process:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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Well after much fooling around, found out the problem was the little catch on the trigger wire had failed and the trigger wire would sometimes wiggle a little loose. When that happened of course it would not start. It is now got a little silicone holding it in place and has not been a problem since. Thank you to everyone for your help on this, it has been a learning experience for sure.
Have a good one.
 

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well after much fooling around, found out the problem was the little catch on the trigger wire had failed and the trigger wire would sometimes wiggle a little loose. When that happened of course it would not start. It is now got a little silicone holding it in place and has not been a problem since. Thank you to everyone for your help on this, it has been a learning experience for sure.
Have a good one.
fantastic.
 

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This started this morning... turn the key... click, nothing. turn the key... click, nothing. turn the key... click, click, sounds like it's trying to start. After a couple of minutes I finally get it to start.

See the video clip https://photos.app.goo.gl/WAubYiry2G1Ebvkf8

What did this end up being for you? Was it your starter? I’m having the exact same issue as your video shows.

Thanks
 
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