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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
TundraTalk suspension experts, I need your help. I've got a garage full of parts and four tires waiting for me at the tire shop so before I rip into my truck I just wanted a last minute sanity check from the TT collective.

2014 CM TRD

Bilstein 5100 fronts, middle setting, 2 CB shims driver side, 1 CB shim passenger.
Diff drop.
Bilstein 5100 rears.
CB +2 shackles.
CB carrier bearing drop.
SpiderTrax 1.25" spacers.
Stock wheels.
Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx tires, 295/70r18.

This combo should work from what I've read/seen, perhaps with some skid plate trimming and removing the front mud flaps.

Have I missed anything? The truck is going up on stands tonight, and I will be taking care of business tomorrow.

Thanks for any input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Right out of the gate, I fell down on the documentation portion of the program, as I got started and just kept on rolling. Apologies, but I did what I could.

Last night I took measurements, put the truck on stands, removed the wheels and tires and hit everything with PB Blaster.

Today I walked out at 9:30 and contemplated and got my stuff together, and I began at 10am sharp. I put away my last tool at exactly 2pm, so aside from the prep work last night, the job all told was four hours in my driveway with simple hand tools and a good buddy for help.

The front.
I went the "no spring compressor method" and followed this video, and it worked to a "T" on the Tundra: https://youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc

After breaking free every bolt (except one, more on that in a minute) I put my jack under the LCA, I unbolted the sway bar link from the LCA, loosed the shock top bolt, attempted to loosen the LCA frame bolts (but could only loosen the rearmost bolts, the fronts were impossible for me), and then removed the LCA/steering knuckle bolts. I removed the shock top bolt, slowly lowered the jack, and the shock gently extended itself and had zero spring pressure. I pulled out the lower shock bolt and VOILA! Assembly removed.

Ok, there was some serious work involved, and this is where the second set of hands was crucial. The LCA wasn't cooperative with lowering far enough to pull the assembly out without some serious pry bar work, but that's likely that I couldn't budge that front LCA frame bolt at all.

There is no danger doing it this way that I can see, the jack controls the LCA, the shock slowly extends and before the threaded shock rod clears the spring perch, the tension is relieved. Easy.

I unbolted the spring perch assembly, installed two CB shims on the driver's side (one CB shims on the passenger side) and bolted them back in. Then I swapped over the new shocks, middle setting, and installed them in reverse order.

The front took me three hours, about an hour and forty five minutes on the drivers side, but the passenger side went much faster once we knew what to expect.

The rear took an hour, removing the rear shackles, pressing out the spring bushings, and bolting in the new bushings and installing the CB shackles. The shocks were stupid simple, and the carrier bearing spacers took less than five minutes to install. For shackles, I followed this video: https://youtube.com/watch?v=zmJ6Xjjtpe8

I also bolted up a set of SpiderTrax 1.25" spacers front and rear. Loctite on the threads, no,Ted them right up. Cake.

Took her for a spin, and she rode great, tracked straight and felt a bit firmer but more planted.

Tires tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Before:


After:


Old v. New:


Missing:


Installed:


Incidentally, while the underside of the truck looks filthy, that's three years of Fluid Film buildup to combat upstate NY winters. The truck is remarkably rust free underneath, so I'm pleased that the FF is doing its job.
 

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Wow! Nice! Those measurements are spot on. It looks great! Thank you for sharing this. Give us an update how the alignment goes. I am hoping to do the same setup here soon.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 
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