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I didn't see anyone add here that although the Tundra is certainly capable of pulling a heavier load - I have personally hauled 14k for short distances - it is only rated for 9,800lbs in most configurations. If you get caught hooked up to a trailer that exceeds the tow rating of your truck - even if the trailer is empty - even if you have airbags, upgraded wheels/tires, etc - you can be cited. The officer will compare the VIN tag on the trailer to the VIN tag on the B pillar of your truck, and if the trailer is rated for more than your truck can tow you will probably be ticketed.

As far as I know, a 20' enclosed is about the longest you can get and still keep a 7,500lb rating. anything you see in the 22-24 foot range is likely a 10,000lb trailer designed to be towed by a 3/4 ton or larger. There are a small handful of Tundra configurations that are rated for (I think) 10,200 or 10,500, but I believe they're only the base model extended cab models IIRC. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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I didn't see anyone add here that although the Tundra is certainly capable of pulling a heavier load - I have personally hauled 14k for short distances - it is only rated for 9,800lbs in most configurations. If you get caught hooked up to a trailer that exceeds the tow rating of your truck - even if the trailer is empty - even if you have airbags, upgraded wheels/tires, etc - you can be cited. The officer will compare the VIN tag on the trailer to the VIN tag on the B pillar of your truck, and if the trailer is rated for more than your truck can tow you will probably be ticketed.

As far as I know, a 20' enclosed is about the longest you can get and still keep a 7,500lb rating. anything you see in the 22-24 foot range is likely a 10,000lb trailer designed to be towed by a 3/4 ton or larger. There are a small handful of Tundra configurations that are rated for (I think) 10,200 or 10,500, but I believe they're only the base model extended cab models IIRC. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
i wasnt aware of that being a law. So if my trailer is capable of hauling but is not hauling more than the max weight the truck is rated for.. then i'd get ticketed.. seems pretty fishy.. i would get a ticket because i could haul more but am not...

but then again our laws sometimes are just weird. especially getting fined for a hypothetical situation.. well you could fit 8000lbs of steel in the bed of your truck based on the volume, but your only a 1/2 ton truck.. lets fine you. also your E rated tires have a weight capacity of 3960 lbs... so thats another ticket, since you could put more weight on them...

IDK what my trailer is rated for, i couldnt find anything on it that tells me its max capacity. but i feel it would be pretty hard to accept a ticket if i'm towing a trailer with contents under the max capacity of the tow vehicle.
 

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I know that is a law down here in Louisiana. It really only applies to the CDL guys though. And even then the officer would have to be a huge prick to ticket you for it. Down here if you are pulling a trailer with tandem dual tires with a truck that isn’t obviously a commercial truck. You are fair game to get pulled over to check for a CDL. More because you have to GVW to be able to pull over the certain weight that a CDL is required. Not as much because you have the ability to overload your truck.


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I tow in both OR and WA. The law is the same in both states. It's also a requirement in both states I tow in that you must be able to see 200' behind you at all times so if your trailer is wider than your tow vehicle (i.e. an 8.5' car hauler), you will either need factory tow mirrors or some sort of extended mirror cap. And yes, fishy as it may sound to some of you I personally know somebody who has been ticketed for this too. He couldn't see the cop with his lights on behind the car hauler so as you can imagine the cop wasn't too happy when he finally did get his attention.
 

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I tow in both OR and WA. The law is the same in both states. It's also a requirement in both states I tow in that you must be able to see 200' behind you at all times so if your trailer is wider than your tow vehicle (i.e. an 8.5' car hauler), you will either need factory tow mirrors or some sort of extended mirror cap. And yes, fishy as it may sound to some of you I personally know somebody who has been ticketed for this too. He couldn't see the cop with his lights on behind the car hauler so as you can imagine the cop wasn't too happy when he finally did get his attention.
i guess the law is the law. luckily i havent had any problems but i also dont regularly tow. I actually have my trailer for sale and have someone coming to pick it up soon.
 

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Just my 2 cents but back those speeds down guys. 80+ with those big trailers isn’t safe. Trailers and trailer tires are not designed for that. Also towing with cruise is not safe, kinda like cruise in icy conditions. If you run into problems it may be too late before you can react properly. Especially for those of you new to towing. Need to stay connected to the vehicle. With trailering don’t think that just because “I’ve always done it this way and never had a problem” that you are doing it right. Like driving drunk, stats say you can do that a few thousand times before you get busted. Also get a TPMS for the trailer. A blown trailer tire is bad on a lot of levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hey guys, I know this isn't a "trailer" forum, but seems like you guys are really knowledgable in this. I am getting ready to buy the trailer and I'm a bit split on what to do. It seems like for a 20ft enclosed trailer, used is around mid 5kish and new is about mid 7kish. Does that sound right? What am I looking for in a trailer? I don't plan on using it often or for super long drives, so it doesn't need to be very high end. I just want to make sure I'm not buying unreliable garbage as well though.
 

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Trailers if kept in good shape hold their value really well so for me, I was willing to pay the extra couple bits and buy new. That way I didn't have to worry about anyone else's maintenance (or lack thereof), floor rot, etc. I could also order it exactly like I wanted it, because I have some pretty specific needs for the type of car I tow. I added a winch plate, V-nose (tows better with a truck than a flat front, plus leaves me room up front for the winch), 6" taller height (this not only gives me more room inside but for towing exotic or very low cars it gives you extra ramp length so the approach angle isn't as acute), aluminum wheels, 48" side door, and color that matches my truck really well. I also added an E ring rail down one side so I could tie tall stuff to the wall if I needed to. My trailer as configured was $7,610 however I shopped around really hard and I was willing to drive 90 miles one-way and wait 3 months for it to be made in order to get that price. Locally, the best price I could get for that configuration was $8,900. Floor rot seems to be the biggest culprit on used so I'd get under it with a screwdriver or car key and poke around a little looking for soft spots. Tow it at various speeds, make sure all the brakes & lights work, listen for wheel bearing noises. That's about the extent of the advice I can offer. Good luck!

Here's a picture of my setup btw:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BZBrYMgm1TpNDA1tDzbtK0i8jM2_bSCM/view?usp=sharing
 

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I'm just curious if OP bought a cargo trailer and which one did he get?

I just bought a used 7'x7'x16' v-nose trailer Friday and my truck pulls and stops it with no issue. I have to install my new brake controller and look into brakes, because I have 93k miles on my factory setup. I was also told that I don't need a equalizer bar. I will see how it does without it.

I plan on insulating the 16' trailer and putting a AC in it. I went with the 7' high ceiling, because I will use it to haul my new 2019 RZR 1000 XP4 highlifter and will crash in the trailer after riding. That's a lot safer than being on the road in the am.
 

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I went with the 7' high ceiling, because I will use it to haul my new 2019 RZR 1000 XP4 highlifter
Another reason I opted for the higher ceiling myself - I wanted a very versatile trailer that would do it all, and will appeal to the most buyers if ever I decide to sell it. Other features you can add besides a winch (mandatory IMO, for anyone who will be hauling cars) are standalone alarm system and wireless backup camera. I like the cam because with that I can put the trailer wherever I want it first time every time, and the alarm is important to me because trailers are such bad-guy magnets. Depending on the car you're towing, a winch can be super handy too because some cars are too wide to drive in safely. In front of the winch (in the V nose) I mounted a deep cycle battery so I can run the winch, lights and alarm without needing to have the trailer hooked up to the truck. I also added a trickle charger with a 110v power plug mounted underneath so I can maintain the charge while it's sitting in the barn waiting for my next tow.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I don't want to drag up an old thread, but I figured it would be better put into here than a new thread. I am finally getting serious about getting that trailer and have found the following options locally:


Any advice on which I should get or seriously look at?

I don't necessarily have a price limit, on the other hand I don't want to go too crazy because I don't imagine I'll be using it too often and it's going to be sitting outside being beat down by the Phoenix sun (for now atleast). The prices vary so greatly on these, and I imagine it has to do with branding and features. I just know NOTHING about trailers!
 
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