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im by no means an expert but when i went to those specs, (socal's), the tires were still feathering, now im set to .1 neg camber and the feathering has improved and the back of the tread is no longer wearing off before the front.
And i do have new uca to compensate for the spacer lift i have. I was told when going over bumps, the way the suspension moves, it scrubs tires as they articulate downwards and goes into a more positive camber situation.
I'm not sure if thats true but it makes sense to me, and the fact that when you are turning the tires 'camber over' as well wearing the outside first, hence slightly more neg camber and regular tire rotations should help this.
We shoild really ask socal the alignment guy about this tho, i think hes the pro
You make some really good points...especially about the tendency to scrub the outside of tire in downward travel. The roads in my area suck, and use the suspension all the time.
Been about 13 years since I have owned an IFS truck...forgot about some of the down sides.:(
 

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I never felt them to see if they were rough in a specific direction. Not sure that would help determine the cause. At least in my case, it's obvious. So, no need to look much further or feel the tires.
If you are paying for your repairs, I'll assume that your truck is out of warranty.
That tells me that if there was something wrong with your struts and ball joints, Toyota would have said so. They wouldn't turn away work and a paying customer.
So, I think it's safe to say that your struts and ball joints are fine.
Even if it was under warranty, the service center would still get paid. So, I don't see why they would lie and say nothing is wrong. Mavis, on the other hand, are either outright lying and scamming you, or whoever looked at your truck was just taking a wild guess at what the problem was and decided to try replacing the struts and see if that helped. My money is on them trying to scam you out of work you didn't need done.
 

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The tire bouncing on the road is what causes only the outside edge to wear prematurely?
My truck tracks perfectly. All my suspension components are tight and leak-free.
No wobble, no bounce, no vibration.
I have the exact same outer edge wear on my fronts. You can look at my truck and visibly see the positive camber with your naked eye. My Toyota shop said my alignment was within spec. Fair enough. But, the degree of positive camber that is within spec and acceptable, will cause excessive outer edge wear, even with a perfectly functioning suspension.
Since I know I'm replacing tires soon, I purposely didn't rotate last time, just so the wear on the fronts would be pronounced. In the event that I took my truck back to the Toyota shop and asked them to adjust the camber (they're actually a good shop) and they told me it was "fine", I could show them what "within spec" did to $800 worth of tires in just 20k mi. Even with rotations at 5 and 10k.
If I ask and they say they won't adjust it to zero for me, even if I pay, I'll ask the tire place to do it when I get new tires.
My factory tires are not as bad as yours, but these are on the back and will remain there until I purchase new tires. 32k miles on these.
I ran factory specs on tire pressure for the first 20k. Since then I have 35 psi rear and 36-38 psi in the fronts.
 

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RRzxter

Your tires are wearing on the outside edge however they are wearing smooth. This wear is caused by an alignment issue.

Kp207

The rough edge wear on your tires is a classic suspension or tire imbalance issue. Bottom line is that you either have worn ball joints, tires that are out of balance or weak struts. With the mileage that is on your vehicle I would bet that the struts are weak, remember just because they are not leaking does not mean anything. Shocks and struts do not last forever. The oil in them looses it's viscosity over time and when that happens the shock/strut does not dampen like it was supposed to.

I can't count the number of customers that have came in over the years with tire cupping wear, have purchased new tires and just had us align the vehicle, even though we have told them that the wear is caused by worn shocks/struts. usually 10,000 miles later they return because there tires are making noise and they have the exact same wear as before. The thing is that once this wear sets in it is unreversible and you either live with the noise and sometimes decreased ride quality or you purchase new tires again for more than it would have cost to repair the suspension issue.

While this video is basically a basic commercial for Gabriel it is still truthful in cause and affect of worn shock/struts. Skip to minute 4:45 and watch from there about tire wear
 

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The tires only havery abot 3 or 4 thousand miles on them. I just rotated them today.

I had toyota check and they stated the alignment was not needed, it was good.

The truck has about 69,000 miles. I got it with about 64,000 6 months ago

I am also running recommended tire pressure.

Cupping like that can be caused by aggressive driving also. Hard braking has a tendency to cause cupping. If you have about 70,000 miles on the original struts it's very possible they need to be replaced and are not keeping the tires planted on the ground. Toyota's alignment specs are a joke, I would take it somewhere that will align it to the specs in the post earlier in this thread for piece of mind.
 

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Heres a pic of a back tire to compare to the my front.
You can see the wear on the outside edge, from spending 5k miles on the front.
But, you can see what is supposed to be on the edge of my front, and how it's completely gone. And these aren't the soft street tires from the factory. These are cooper A/T. They were rotated at 5k and 10k and now have about 20k on them.


I also have a cooper on my spare that has zero miles on it. I'll take a pic of it side by side later (it's raining now), so everyone can see what positive camber does to cooper A/T's over 20k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks guys for such detailed and helpful responses. I just called toyota for an idea of new strut costs (171.00 !) The parts guy was telling me he has a tundra as well and had same issue. He said he believes it was from the stock Bridgestone tires ( which I also have) he said he went through 2 sets and only got 20 to 25,000 miles out of them and that when he switched tire brands it went away.

I guess I will have my trucks alignment done again and then keep my eye out for some good deals on new struts ( I prefer stock stuff so maybe some new take offs will appear in classified section soon)
I1tech thanks for the help, I hate to have to go that route but evidence suggests it's probably the cause.
I do drive aggressive and live on the Appalachian Mountains in New Jersey. I drive almost all twisty hilly and curvy roads. I'm sure that dosnt help but my friends 2012 gmc seierra truck dosnt show any odd wear patterns.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
If it helps the diagnosis any I am pretty sure my tires are 'feathering' not necessarily cupping. Don't know if that changes any opinions or not.
I1tech what do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
This is Not my tire but is a better pic for an idea of what's going on. It shows better.
(I have an ok lead on some new struts that are new take offs. They are still expensive but on the fence now weather to buy them.)
 

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I'm still wondering why the Toyota shop would tell you your struts are fine, if they're not.
That's easy money for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I agree. The mechanic seemed like a very knowledgeable guy too. He also said my alignment was good, so if everything is good then why the odd tire wear?...(I should have pursue further but once I was told that my water pump was going bad the tire wear issue took a back seat. Now that the pumps fixed I'm back on the tire issue. )
The wear might also be referred to as heel tow wear.
 

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He also said my alignment was good, so if everything is good then why the odd tire wear?
Because your camber is probably within spec. My camber is also considered to be within spec. And you saw what my tires look like.
If the specs are within acceptable range, they probably don't wanna be bothered with setting the alignment machine up, just to make a fraction of a degree adjustment for relatively little money.
I'm sure that if you insisted that they adjust your camber and paid for it, they might do it just to make a customer happy. But they don't have to, because "technically" there's nothing wrong with it. So, they don't really care of your tires are wearing, because technically it's not their fault.
Struts, shocks, ball joints, etc, don't really have a range of acceptable variance.
If they're bad, they're bad. And if yours were bad, they would have wanted to change them, I'm sure.
 

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Kp207

The tire in the last photo you posted is definitely the start of cupping (also referred to as heel toe wear as you found out) and is 100% caused by a suspension issue.

In my opinion the aftermarket does a lot better job of making shocks and struts than the OEs do and at a better price, unless were talking about high dollar high performance vehicles. If I needed new struts and was staying at stock ride height I would go with the KYB MonoMax struts. This is pretty much all I install on customers vehicles and people are more than happy with them.

Why the dealer didn't tell you what was wrong is simple...he just didn't know. You have to remember that the dealerships mostly deal with newer vehicles and I can tell you that as far as shocks and struts go if they aren't leaking then nothing is wrong with them in their opinion. They don't actually deal with a lot of tire wear concerns that aren't caused by an alignment issue.
 

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My factory tires are not as bad as yours, but these are on the back and will remain there until I purchase new tires. 32k miles on these.
I ran factory specs on tire pressure for the first 20k. Since then I have 35 psi rear and 36-38 psi in the fronts.
This is Not my tire but is a better pic for an idea of what's going on. It shows better.
(I have an ok lead on some new struts that are new take offs. They are still expensive but on the fence now weather to buy them.)
That is damn close to what mine were doing as well, and on my stock rugged trails it wasnt as noticable as they are more of a 'round' tire anyways, but when i bought nice, new, deep tread, flat topped tires the wear was instantly noticable and i had to correct it, hence the new uca's, but i do have a level on it so that was the issue imo.
I cant believe toyotas range of camber, that is ridiculous.You could pretty much eyeball that!
 

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the shop i had align my truck is an offroad truck shop in the middle of truck country so they did know what the deal was right away, however they were more than happy to align it once and tell me it was fine when, actually, it needed new uca's and was barely in spec alignment, my second align after the uca took care of it
 
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