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Yeah, my wife & I were first intro'd to the concept of keyless entry & push button start on our 2011 BMW X5. With the key in your pocket you walk up, touch the door handle to unlock it, climb in, push the button and drive off. Never have to take the key out of your pocket. It is an extremely convenient feature that I want to try to replicate on our Tundra. Another sweet feature I think really has a place on a pickup truck in particular is a 360 view camera. Our BMW has this feature too and it makes parking in tight spots extremely simple. You see a picture of the top of your car on the display and you can see everything around it on all sides. it has the usual backup cam in the tail gate of course and then two more in each side mirror and one more up front. Then there's a processor that stitches together the images from each camera into a full panoramic view. I have been developing some ideas to make this happen on my truck too but I'm not to the point of being confident enough yet to start buying anything and playing with it.
Can I send you my truck so you can add these things on mine :D
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Leo (Eledobleu) just sent me pics of my completed lights! Can't wait. They look beautiful. I had him finish them out with a more OEM look to begin with but since he replaces the permaseal with butyl I may take them apart later and black them out. I opted to not black them out without seeing them on the truck first though.

Also getting pretty deep into my electrical mods, so far just getting all the pieces pulled out of my way so I can get in there with my probe and the electrical diagrams that other TT users were so kind to post for download.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Been a few days since I've reported any progress but there's been plenty more to do while I'm still waiting for my headlights and three replacement wheels. Here are some pics of my rear heated seat install. I couldn't find the right type of hog rings locally so I had to order. They'll be here on Monday, then I can finish putting the seats back together & get them back in the truck. The seat heaters are Katzkin brand, sold by Sparks for $55/set. Excellent quality. I put the heater buttons in the rear console next to the 12v power outlet and ran the power leads up to the front of the console. I haven't decided where exactly I'll put it yet but the idea is to put a master switch up front somewhere that I can turn them on or off with. This will keep them from getting left on indefinitely.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I've also made a fair bit of progress on my Digital Guard Dawg system. I figure I'm probably about 70% of the way to a completed install. I'm very pleased with the quality of this system and the level of documentation it comes with. I also bought a Flash Logic data interface module from a local Car Toys to make things simpler. The FLCAN module connects to the onboard CANBUS and Immo Data systems to provide key bypass (no donor key or ignition cylinder loop needed), status outputs for brake+, tach, and door trigger, and inputs to activate lock/unlock/arm/disarm from the iKey control module outputs. This saves a lot of time hunting down various connectors and pin #'s and allows you to assemble much of the wiring harness on your workbench where you can see everything and triple-check your work easier instead of trying to do it all under the dash while standing on your head. It was $69 + $20 to program to my application. Well worth it for the time and aggravation saved. I'll also say that the key fobs are pretty factory-like in their feel and appearance. I'm very glad I upgraded to this style. Hoping everything works as planned once I finish getting all these silly wires tapped in to where they need to go. There are two more wiring harnesses not pictured here btw because they're already in the truck. I'd say this mod is definitely not for somebody who isn't comfortable with their ability to track a schematic and understand how car electrical systems work. I've always done my own alarm/stereo installs and that practice really helps. This is probably the 6th or 7th I've done in my 20 years of driving.

For anyone who's interested in this same system they had a few left for $349 off if you call them. The full retail price of the system I received was $877 as-configured with passive keyless entry, push button start and remote start, and upgrading to two OEM-style key fobs. With the discount however I only paid $528 shipped. I will also be preparing a wiring key and posting that once I'm done so anyone else who wants to do this mod shouldn't have so much work ahead of them.
 

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Sweet build. I just received my kit from Digital guard dawg. I'm curious as to what you think of them once the install is complete. I tried getting it professionally installed and none wanted to take on that job for some reason. I don't think I want to try it myself either. Where did you end up installing the push button? I opted for the slim line Lexus one and was thinking of covering the existing ignition. Also, please let me know what you did with the shaved key or whatever to bypass the steering lock. Thanks and good luck with the rest of the build.




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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks! I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do with the push button. I got the slimline Lexus button too but I'm a bigger fan of mounting it somewhere on the dash itself so it's easier to visually monitor the LED status. I'll keep you posted once I decide where to put it.

As far as the install goes, I can totally understand why a shop wouldn't want to put this in for you. It's not that there's anything wrong with the kit or the instructions but the drive-it-in, drive-it-out-in-an-hour world of install shops is dominated by the one size fits all options of DEI and FlashLogic. There are a lot of user-configurable choices to make with the DGD system including output connections & jumper settings, on top of the manufacturer itself being somewhat new to the industry & unproven (even though they have an outstanding reputation amongst the motorcycle guys). So since the shop would be on the hook for fixing or changing anything that wasn't operating the way you wanted it to, it's a lot easier for them to say no to the job instead of taking on that political liability. From their perspective, they're worrying about the customer going online & posting bad reviews all over the place, telling everyone how they screwed up your truck. My reason for always wanting to do this type of work on my own though is because I don't like trusting my rig's electronics to a guy whose compensation is tied to how fast he can pull it back out of the install bay. I'd rather have all my connections soldered, my wires bundled, routed along or through factory wiring paths whenever possible, etc.
 

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I've worked on the tundra head unit before and I'm not a stranger to wiring. On a scale of 1 to 10, how difficult do you think this job is for me? The shaved key thing is still vague to me. Could you tell me what you plan on doing?


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Discussion Starter #29
No problem. Just sent you a PM. LMK if you have any questions and I'll take a picture. I'm down to just having my 12V constant connections left now so hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday I'll be able to update with my results, good bad or otherwise.

btw, I also forgot to mention that my three replacement wheels showed up yesterday and would you believe they sent me three more 8 lug versions just like last time??? All packaged up in boxes marked 5x150.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm extremely pleased to report that this massive pile of wires and boxes cascading from the dash of my truck just started my rig for me with the push button first try. I have to get in for dinner now but wanted to share the great news.
 

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I'm extremely pleased to report that this massive pile of wires and boxes cascading from the dash of my truck just started my rig for me with the push button first try. I have to get in for dinner now but wanted to share the great news.
Holy crap...you're a braver man than I.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Been a few days since I caught up with my post here so wanted to let everyone know current progress. I got my headlights back from Leo (Eledobleu) last Wednesday and the correct wheels came in on Friday so I've finally been able to actually start enjoying it a little. I'm finding a few little things left on the DGD system that I need to finish perfecting, such as

- Keysense. FLCAN install guide says to leave this disconnected. I didn't like that the seat & column don't auto-adjust anymore when I start the rig so I snaked another wire up the steering column & hooked it up. Came out the next morning and my battery was dead. Turns out the column & seat were adjusting themselves about every 30 seconds or so. Cut the wire and all is working again. Any ideas?

- park light flash on unlock. the FLCAN has a single input that triggers both vehicle unlock & disarm when pulsed. When I turn the truck off with the push button, all the doors unlock like they should - but using this FLCAN input means the parking lights flash every time too. I think I am probably going to have to track down the separate unlock and disarm wires on the truck itself instead of using the FLCAN to pump those signals onto the CANBUS unless someone else has another idea?

- Antenna locations. The instructions say the signal will not pass through metal, and they mean it. Still playing around with perfect antenna location. I had originally hoped to locate them a little more out of sight next to the headliner but I'm having a hard time getting it to unlock when I approach from any direction with that configuration. They are currently affixed to the glass itself about an inch away from the frame and I get much more reliable coverage this way.

Otherwise, my first impressions of this system are very favorable. I will say that I am replacing the slim line Lexus button with the other Lexus-style button they offer for $89 vs $69. The slim line button is designed specifically to go over the key cylinder but the trim ring it comes with doesn't look very good at all if you try to mount it somewhere else. I haven't received my other button yet but I'll include a review of that one too once I get it. From the pictures it looks like it should fit in much better with the rest of the dash (my plan is to mount it to the left of the stereo & climate controls, under the driver's air vent outlet).


One more note on the wheel choice too. I'm definitely going to need some flares. This tire/wheel combo spits road debris everywhere. The side of the truck was instantly dirty the first time I drove it in the rain. I'm running +25mm offset with Toyo A/T 295/60R20's. The tires stick out 1 1/8" outside the stock fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hi All, sorry it's been a bit since I updated. Pics attached of how it looks right now.

I spent most of the time between my last update on 12/7 and up to about 3 weeks ago obsessively trying different configurations with my DGD system. I finally resolved to chalk it up as an interesting experiment and pulled it all back out because it just wasn't configurable enough for my tastes. The two things it did that drove me the most batty were that there I could find no way to reliably incorporate the automatic steering column and seat retract/extend features that take place with the OE keysense feature, and most frustratingly, the system would go into hazard-flash mode anytime I was outside the range of the PKE antennas. This is an extremely dorky "feature" on a truck IMO because I'm constantly leaving the doors open while I load the bed, trailer, or whatever else. Running or not, the hazards would start flashing if I spent more than about 10 seconds outside the cab.

Anyway, that's why I finally just pulled it all back out and returned the ignition system to stock. I left my FLCAN in there though with the expectation that I will probably do remote start at some point. For now though I just need to get moved on to other projects so the truck is going to have to wait until I can come back to it for the next round of upgrades. I am pretty proud of my rear heated seats though, those came out really nicely and work flawlessly. I'm only into them for about $150 in materials but the labor was pretty intense. Definitely not something I'd recommend starting on without having a great deal of time set aside (figure 10+ hours).
 

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