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Im almost done with my sound system upgrade. I got done installing the Pioneer X5500BHS. The kicker door speakers became alive with the new HU. Now I want to make use of the 2x12 sub box sitting under my rear seats.

Box 2x12 down fire enclosed
1.69CF add some polyfill/Sound deadening on the back wall.


MB Quart RLP-304
-300RMS/600max
-DVC/4ohm
-.5CF min .75CF max
Specs

Mated with this amp.

Audiobahn AMA12002H
-2ch A/B amp
-150x2 @ 4ohm
-300x2 @ 2ohm
-600 Bridged @ 4ohm

Wire it like this


Total of 250ish for all. I already have a wiring kit.

Any thoughts? Possible other options for the same price?
 

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Have you listened to the Quart subs? They are OK but I was pretty underwhelmed when I listened to them. They don't have a whole lot of excursion so they don't go real low. I forget what the airspace requirements are but you might want to make sure the box is right for them. Kicker has a new line of shallow subs out that seem to work well and Pioneer and Kenwood both have decent shallow subs out. The Rockford Fosgate P3 is also a nice sub but you're going to pay a lot more for any of those than the Quarts. Maybe think about changing enclosures and going to a couple of 10's? There are some great ones out there with less than 5 inches of mounting depth that have good excursion and are not classified as shallow subs.

The amp isn't bad but I don't think it will do the rated 600 watts bridged. If you look around you can find the Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000D for less than $175 and you can also find the Precision Power Phantom series mono amp for around $189. Both of those amps will do better than rated power.

Its all in what you expect from your eqipment. The stuff you have picked out is inexpensive and will fill the void for some low end support for your music but you aren't going to move a lot of air and feel the bass. For some people that is fine. Others have told me they "don't want to rattle the windows or wake the neighbors" and that is fine too, if you're not buying new equipment in a few months because it doesn't meet your expectations. Try to find someplace to either demo the Quarts or a shallow 12" sub in general that is in about the same price range and in about the same size enclosure.
 

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RE audio subs are the stuff for the money. I have the SRX 10's running 600rms to each with my Hifonics 1200.1 Brutus
 

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I'm very satisfied with my 12" Alpine type R shallow sub, it pounds!
Initially i wanted to buy either a RE sub or a SunDown Audio, but none were available in town. I wouldnt recommend the rockford fosgate P3, they seem to be quite cheap.. i blew 2 of the R2 12" they are pretty whimpy.

Either way, i'd recommend a 12 over two 8s...
 

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I'm very satisfied with my 12" Alpine type R shallow sub, it pounds!
Initially i wanted to buy either a RE sub or a SunDown Audio, but none were available in town. I wouldnt recommend the rockford fosgate P3, they seem to be quite cheap.. i blew 2 of the R2 12" they are pretty whimpy.

Either way, i'd recommend a 12 over two 8s...
There is a world of difference between a Rockford prime sub (the r2) and a punch p3 it is like comparing the Toyota Yaris to the land cruiser!


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There is a world of difference between a Rockford prime sub (the r2) and a punch p3 it is like comparing the Toyota Yaris to the land cruiser!


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That might be so, but the R2 turned me off to the fosgate subs.... looking at the pictures and specs of the P3 didn't really inspire much confidence either...

Either way, the specs of the Alpine type R blow the P3 out of the water....
 

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The Alpine is a great sub no doubt, but it is also more money than he wants to spend on an amp and two subs. If you have the money, the Alpine is the way to go. If you don't, something else is going to have to take it's place.
 

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That might be so, but the R2 turned me off to the fosgate subs.... looking at the pictures and specs of the P3 didn't really inspire much confidence either...

Either way, the specs of the Alpine type R blow the P3 out of the water....
The specs may very well be better on the alpine. (I know they are I sell both) and I'm not saying the alpine is a bad sub it isn't it is great but there is not one thing the alpine sub does any better than the p3 at a substantially lower price. I have 2 of them in one of my cars and am building a box right now for 2 12" p3 shallows in my truck. I'm not saying its a better sub but it is also in no way worse which makes it a better value. For some people a cheap sub such as the prime is plenty but for cheap subs there are much better options than the prime. In that price range I would look at an entry level jbl or kicker sub.

To the op, if you are looking for a good value on a shallow sub right now your best bet would be to look online for a set of last years shallow kicker they just released a new one (the comp rt) which is badass but last years was no slouch and with the release of the new sub you could probably get a great price on them to keep close to your budget.


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Here's a cheap sub that sounds pretty good.
 

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on the type R subs...

I dunno. Gfs bro blew 2 of them, spider/suspension failure. It is plastic. Both cracked. First one I thought he was being a dumbass... SO second one I re-tuned the amp, took away his bass boost knob, and set everything and told him to not touch anything but the treble...

AND it failed again.

Sub box to 'pines specs exactly. Amp matched rated rms (besides, not a burn't coil issue) literally the suspension failed.

For reasonable ( cheap) subs that sound good I would go with the pioneer ibflat. Hell, I would rather have 2 of those than the 13tw5 I have, however I have it, and would need to build another box for the 2 flats... Box builder is slower than moooolasssssessss on sleeping pills.
 

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on the type R subs...

I dunno. Gfs bro blew 2 of them, spider/suspension failure. It is plastic. Both cracked. First one I thought he was being a dumbass... SO second one I re-tuned the amp, took away his bass boost knob, and set everything and told him to not touch anything but the treble...

AND it failed again.

Sub box to 'pines specs exactly. Amp matched rated rms (besides, not a burn't coil issue) literally the suspension failed.

For reasonable ( cheap) subs that sound good I would go with the pioneer ibflat. Hell, I would rather have 2 of those than the 13tw5 I have, however I have it, and would need to build another box for the 2 flats... Box builder is slower than moooolasssssessss on sleeping pills.

What model Type Rs? They used to be good. Was the box ported? How did you "tune" the amp?
 

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The new type r aren't as bad as a couple years ago, the jl audio w3 shallow that just came out is badass, way better than the tw5, don't get me wrong I think the tw5 is a good sub just doesn't live up to its price tag. A Rockford p3 12" shallow will give about the same and costs a ton less. Those new w3s are badass though.


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I still vote RE Audio.. I am running double the rated RMS through mine and they are holding it lime champs for over a year now. They are rated at 300 RMS and I'm running 600 RMS
 

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I still vote RE Audio.. I am running double the rated RMS through mine and they are holding it lime champs for over a year now. They are rated at 300 RMS and I'm running 600 RMS
You are way less likely to blow a sub running well over its rms rating than if you don't run enough. It is the distortion from an underpowered amp that usually blows a sub.


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What model Type Rs? They used to be good. Was the box ported? How did you "tune" the amp?
swrt10...

Sealed enclosure.
Box built per spec as listed in manual, glued/screwed, and also polysealed on the seams ( was built by a cabinet maker.)

I could get into figuring out exactly how much v-ac I tuned it to, but that would be irrelevant, as that is how the first time I had tuned it. The second time I tuned it to an anemic gain level, took away the bass boost, set the h-u to flat on low freq, and told him to leave it the eph alone... which he did...
Amp would not over drive sub if it had to... Amp was RATED at 600 [email protected] ohms @14.4, his vehicle never went above 13.8 without accessories on...


those subs just have issues.

It could be the fact that it actually gets cold in certain parts of the world and this wasn't taken into thought during the engineering process, or it could be because they were both bought from an unauthorized online retailer...
But I am just going to say that they are not worth their weight in pennies because the first time it shouldn't have failed, nor the second.

So, how do you tune an amp? By ear or dmm or combination?

To be honest, the first time I had asked him what the hell he was doing, and he said he was out driving with some friends and he had it cranked...

Hence second time around I went uber conservative... and took away bass boost knob, AND set h-u and told him to leave it alone...

Second time he wasn't doing anything stupid, was just listening to music alone while driving, not cranked, and slowly heard the same noise as before, it came on slowly, he turned it down to just an average level and the sound just got worse over the duration. He was embarassed to tell me about it the second time because after the first I gave him a hard time about buying it from chronixelectronix (mispelled on purpose) and also I had told him to buy a different sub... Second time around he dealt with it for 2 months before finally telling me... It still works, sounds decent at lower volumes, just makes noises as it is not suspended properly, and gets worse if any sort of enjoyable volumes are reached. I have two failed subs that I can play with if I want to. I thought about gluing it back together, but I really don't care.
 

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Sound Solutions Audio - Quality Car Audio Subwoofers

They have a GREAT forum, have an amazing Subwoofer line for all budgets, and carry everything you need from a basic setup, to a full competition system. I've known their owners for over 10 years and they are some of the best people in the Car Audio industry today both in terms of knowldge, but also in products for sale and the way they stand behind them.



J
 

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Sound Solutions Audio - Quality Car Audio Subwoofers

They have a GREAT forum, have an amazing Subwoofer line for all budgets, and carry everything you need from a basic setup, to a full competition system. I've known their owners for over 10 years and they are some of the best people in the Car Audio industry today both in terms of knowldge, but also in products for sale and the way they stand behind them.



J
Never listened to them but they appear to use some good materials. But there is also nothing shallower than a 10" at 6.0" depth there is no way those are going to fit under the rear seat without a ton of modification.


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