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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am by no means an expert as this was my first sub woofer install on my own. Thought I'd share the experience and make up a brief tutorial for other people thinking the same. This is my way of giving back for all the help you guys have given me throughout my process.

Equipment:
-Two 10" Kicker Comp RT subs
-Powerbass Amplifier
-DB Links 4 gauge Amp Kit (power, ground, remote wire, RCA, fuse, speaker wire, heat shield, various gromets for the wires.)
-Sub box upwards firing
-PAC 2 channel line output converter (LOC)
-Various screws and some wire connectors for splices

Instructions:
1. I ran the power gauge from the battery to a standalone fuse where I mounted on top of the fuse box. Then ran the power cord through the firewall (driver side just left of the E-brake) and underneath the plastic all the way back to my amp. The plastics all snap off fairly easy.

2. Next I had to install the LOC. I took the stock head unit out so I could find the 2 door speakers I needed (I used my rear speakers, its a 6 prong on the far right if you are looking at the back of the head unit. Left rear speaker will be yellow +, black -, right rear will be red +, white -). I spliced the LOC into those wires respectively.

3. I ran the RCA cables from the other end of the LOC down underneath the dash and back to the amp.

4. I took the remote wire and spliced it into the power side of the cigarette lighter (this will be the grey wire). Then ran that down the dash and into the amp. (this tells the amp to turn on and off when your car is either on or off).

5. To ground the amp, I took out the jack, sanded down to bare metal, and drilled a self tapping screw with the the ground cable. (Ensure you have a good grounding spot because this will easily cause the system not to work).

6. I wired the subs in series, not parallel. (this will depend on the type of amp you are running).

Audio equipment Technology Wire Electronic device Gadget

7. I attached the positive and negative to my box terminals, drilled the subs into the box and then ran speaker wire from the box to the amp.

8. I screwed the amp to the deck and finished hiding all the wires. I then put some 540 (caulk pretty much) and patched the hole I made in the fire wall. I put the plastic heat shield around the power cord in the engine bay and zip tied it on.

*Note- Test the system before you hide all your wires and put everything back in order. This will save a lot of time and trouble.

Total time it took me to install was about 5 hours. This was my first time and no experience really. The only shop in town wanted $300 for the install alone not including anything. Plus I learned a lot. I hope this can be useful to some people and if anyone has any questions I will do my best to answer them.
 

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Great job, its always more rewarding (and way cheaper!!!) to DIY! Out of curiosity, how much power wire did you need from the battery to the rear deck?
 

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did you make your own box?
 

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Nice work.. lets see some pics of the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As much as I wanted to make my own box, I did not. I found a really good deal on hifisoundconnection.com. + free shipping.

Beige Rectangle Circle

I'll get some pics up ass soon as possible
 

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As much as I wanted to make my own box, I did not. I found a really good deal on hifisoundconnection.com. + free shipping.

View attachment 49657

I'll get some pics up ass soon as possible
I did the same with my first car audio install.. each time you do an install you will do more and do better than the last.

My install history looked something like:
1. HU install and added a sub and amp.
2. coax speakers, HU, Sub, amps for full system.
3. Component system speakers, HU, sub, amps, built my own box, and ventured into sound deadening for the first time. Best install I have done so far - really clean / professional quality.

For my Tundra build I am going to do the same as I did with my last install - with alot more sound deadening, better quality parts/equipment, and might even get myself into audio processing.

It is addictive and looks like you've got the itch too :lol5:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haha yes it is very addictive. Now I'm like, what can I do next?

There is definitely a lot of lessons learned on this install and I have a much better understanding. Still haven't broke out into sound deadening... Do you think it really makes it sound noticeably better? where would you sound deadened on the Tundra?
 

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I did my entire interior, and I think it made a BIG difference. It really cut down on the outside noise. Better midbass, quieter cab. I've even had a few buddys compliment me on it. RAAmat and ensolite, great combo!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh nice! Definitely something to look into. I think before i get into that, I need to get some aftermarket door speakers, tweeters and I also want a touch screen head unit. That would be sooooo sick lol.
 

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I'm actually taking pictures of my "old" amps right now so I can sell them and purchase some new audio equipment for my crewmax :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Heres a pic of the subs installed.

Electronics Technology Electronic device Vehicle Car

Here's a pic of where I put the amp...I wish I had 1 more foot of RCA cord...I might have to run the cord underneath the sub box so it doesn't look like this. If I could shrink my amp, I would do that to lol. Gotta save money where you can though, and I had this amp from a previous system.:D

Technology Floor Auto part Vehicle Wire
 

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Hey guys, wasn't sure where to post this. I am installing two amps this weekend into my 2013 Double Cab. I am installing a JL 1000.1 and an Alpine MRP-F300 under both front seats. I am looking for pictures or any input on what the best way is to accomplish this. I am aware of the vents under the seats and I am trying to use a board of some sort as a platform to raise the amps so they aren't blocking these vents. The size of both amps are:
JL: 15 1/16" X 9 11/16"
Alpine: 10 11/16" X 9 9/16"

Thanks in advance. Also would you guys recommend running a 100 AMP fuse for the amps or 150. I am using an RFK4D amp kit 4 gauge from battery to distribution block, 4 gauge to JL amp 8 gauge to Alpine amp. Thanks again for any input.
 

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I mounted my PPI P900.4 under the front passenger seat. Its measurements are:
Dimensions: 10-15/16"L x 6-3/4"W x 2"H

Very small footprint for the power.

that JL might be tough to fit under there, you have to think about a little bit of room for the wires to stick out (dont want someone back there to accidentally kick or step on one of the RCAs or something).

I didnt mount mine to anything, it sits on top of the vent, stays in place because the power/ground and speaker wires are enough to hold it in place.
 

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Thanks KRAZYK. My JL's wires aren't at either end. They are along the long side of the amp. So I'm hoping that won't be an issue. It's good to know you didn't mount it to anything. I think I am looking to raise it above those vents regardless. Even just a little bit, with some sort of spacers towards the back of the amp. Thanks.
 

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Have you considered doing the backseat mod and building an amp rack back there? It makes it much easier to adjust amp and no worries about overheating or passengers kicking amps. Only downside is I lost the ability to lock the seat in the up position because of the amp depth.
There is a thread or two on here with dimensions if you choose that route. There was also a thread of the boards under the seats with feet on them to clear the vents.
 

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Have you considered doing the backseat mod and building an amp rack back there? It makes it much easier to adjust amp and no worries about overheating or passengers kicking amps. Only downside is I lost the ability to lock the seat in the up position because of the amp depth.
There is a thread or two on here with dimensions if you choose that route. There was also a thread of the boards under the seats with feet on them to clear the vents.
This works for people with a double cab.. crewmax does not have this issue/opportunity (depends how you look at it).

I have my CM seats slid forward a bit, and reclined slightly to allow a big 2ft^3 box with 2 12" subs. So my back wall was pretty much taken over :D
 

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Anyone know how long some subs would last in my truck bed here in Texas. I do have a leather bed cover and it keeps all the water out when it rains. I'm just interested in how long they will last in the heat/cold/humidity. Anyone tried this? The reason I want it in the bed is cause I have 3 12" already :D
 
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