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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got around to getting a couple things done on the Tundra.
Weve had amazing weather in the Eastern Sierras so it has been tough to spend a day wrenching when you can be out climbing rock and ice or laying out some great spring temp/winter snow turns on the hill.:)

Installed a Drive shaft center-bearing carrier drop.
My truck only has a ~3-4" lift (ICON stage 5) and it is not a recommended item for lifts under ~5", but i could feel a bit of shudder in the drivetrain on takeoff acceleration and it was bothering me. Just didnt have that perfectly smooth "new" car feel like it should with less than 10K on it. I had an extracab in the past that had a center bearing 2-pc. driveshaft and was more than familiar with the issues when lifting the truck.
The carrier bearing is not cheap to replace, makes a ton of noise and vibrates like a mofo when it starts to wear. Easy fix but PITA till ya do.
Fix the problem now i told myself.
Brian from www.StreetTacos.com sells a drop center bearing carrier bracket for 07+ Tundras to do just this.
www.streetacos.com/Products.html - search for 07 tundra and the specific products will come up. He sells one for <4" lift, and one for >5".
His bracket uses stock holes and adds an adtn'l bolt to increase rigidity. Drops the bearing 1-1/2" on the smaller one. Comes with hardware. Very easy install that takes a total of 20min. and 1 beer. I even had an icy driveway to lie on. 2 bolts out, shove bracket in, 3 bolts on.

drop bracket



location of bolts to remove (2)


bolts out, drop shaft with supported at axle with a block (notice ice)



new bracket in place, upper flange to front of truck. top, center bolt is new and adds some rigidity. install this bolt first but leave loose till others are lined up.



all done and tight



test drive brought a smile to my face. NO more shudder on takeoff or acceleration. Didnt have high speed vibrations before or after, but if i would have let the issue continue- i would have. Should have done this the day i lifted it.
REALLY recommend this mod for anyone lifting these trucks and wanting to maintain a good ride now and down the road.

Also- Toyota batteries suck.
This is a new truck with 10K on it. Already have corrosion and mild leaking. Searching the web, this is common for toyota.


Problem solved:


Sears Dihard Platinum PM-1 Group 31M AGM Marine battery 205 min. reserve. Direct fit in 07+ Tundras. Plenty of juice for a winching and to run my ARB fridge w/o the worries. Same exact battery as an Odyssey
I test fit today, charging fully, then in tomorrrow.

Hope this thread helps some people out.
 

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my fj battery (toyota) was fine, never got corrosion, although i did treat it just like all my batteries with battery protector, but didnt do that for about 6 mths to a year and didnt have any corrosion, as for the leaking, i didnt have that either. i also ran an amp that took about 160 amps of juice (1250 rms, and not junk, high dollar shiz, so really 1250 rms and 160 amp draw @ near max)

the oem battery does have a warranty, i woulda just told them the battery is leaking and you keep having to jump it...


the issue i had was the stupid cheap ass battery terminal clamp, they are cheapish, not as bad as the new fords, like on the f450 new diesel i did an install on 2 days ago, or as bad as the 2011 dodges, but nonetheless its a shitty clamp
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the battery in our '10 4runner has no issues as well.

my winch, the cold weather, wheeling lots of washboard may have something to do with it? Dont want a lead acid non sealed battery on this rig anyway. I'll go get a new battery from toyota and sell it- any takers??
 

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I'm here to let everyone know just how patient and just how nice this guy is. Between the time he ordered and now, I moved my house and shop, I sent out a few new style brackets with a design flaw, (which he was unlucky enough to receive) I got VERY backed up and he waited longer, and then when I sent this one, USPS for some reason showed no record of his delivery confirmation #, and I assured him it was on it's way, and never once did this guy give me any attitude whatsoever. This man is surely going to heaven when he dies, and rest assured if I make it there too, beers are on me.

Thanks SO MUCH for your informative writeup Aaron. I'm super stoked you had the same great outcome that so many others have had with this "magic bracket". Have a great trip Aaron, you deserve it man.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No worries Brian.
I like Sierra Nevada Pale! Or Tequilla

the wait just made me appreciate it that much more now that its on. Just dropped my kid at school, no weird vibes :). Now off to throw in the battery...
 

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No worries Brian.
I like Sierra Nevada Pale! Or Tequilla

the wait just made me appreciate it that much more now that its on. Just dropped my kid at school, no weird vibes :). Now off to throw in the battery...
Well the wait is over since I'm almost officially caught up now. I think we'd better go with the Pale Ale, tequila and I had a night in Mexico at the Baja 250 a long time ago that we both would like to forget. :)
 

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Brian,

I was planning to send you an email but haven't gotten around to it. I think you must have sent me one of the brackets that had a design flaw because the drive shaft hit the bracket. I had to gring out the center of the bracket and it still doesn't fit quite right. I have some thiick washers below the bracket. The bracket you sent me was squared off near the drive shaft. Is that what you were referring to?

Thanks
Wes
 

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Brian,

I was planning to send you an email but haven't gotten around to it. I think you must have sent me one of the brackets that had a design flaw because the drive shaft hit the bracket. I had to gring out the center of the bracket and it still doesn't fit quite right. I have some thiick washers below the bracket. The bracket you sent me was squared off near the drive shaft. Is that what you were referring to?

Thanks
Wes
Wes, I stand behind my products 100% and would be glad to send you a new bracket on my dime and yes, I think I sent about 4 of them out with the center not cut out and the yoke on the driveshaft will contact it there.

There were never any problems when they were all built with 2-1/4" of drop, but then I was contacted by members with lower rear drops who were interested in the bracket but felt they needed one with less drop, that's when the problem occured.

I also want to let people know, the cage that surrounds the bearing can be mounted 1 of 2 ways...the tabs are offset on the cage and you get about a 1/2" drop or lift depending on how the cage is mounted.

Toyota used to mount them with the majority of the bearing on the upside, but now mounts them with the majority of the bearing on the down side making the shaft sit about a 1/2" lower, obviously still not enough since people notice this "launch shudder" or vibration even in stock form. It's been discovered these 2007-2011 Tundra's need the bearing dropped 3/4" in stock form. So that's why I offer these in 1.5" for trucks that are 4" and lower in the rear, and 2" for trucks that are 5" and higher in the rear. Even more drop if someone wants it.

If you want a new bracket Wes, just contact me and we'll get this built and shipped. They're 100% dialed in again now. I can't always have a every model truck to test fit parts on, and do go through great lengths to try to get 'em or go to the dealer because redoing parts and inconveniencing people is a waste of time for us both.
 

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Wes, I stand behind my products 100% and would be glad to send you a new bracket on my dime and yes, I think I sent about 4 of them out with the center not cut out and the yoke on the driveshaft will contact it there.



If you want a new bracket Wes, just contact me and we'll get this built and shipped. They're 100% dialed in again now. I can't always have a every model truck to test fit parts on, and do go through great lengths to try to get 'em or go to the dealer because redoing parts and inconveniencing people is a waste of time for us both.
Brian,

Thanks for standing behind your product. I figured you would but I haven't gotten around to it and since you mentioned in your post there was a problem with a few brackets it seemed like a good opportunity to contact you. With custom fabrications I realize there are times that things don't go perfectly. I think we are all glad you are stepping in where some of the major companies have not to resolve this.

It's great that you participate in the forums and are eager to help out.

I sent you an email about the bracket.

Thanks
Wes
 

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Hey Brian or Wes, What bracket do I need with the Pro comp 6" lift? I dont know what amount of lift the kit gives the rear? Thanks.
On a another note I love seeing a company stand behind their product! great job
 

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Hey Brian or Wes, What bracket do I need with the Pro comp 6" lift? I dont know what amount of lift the kit gives the rear? Thanks.
On a another note I love seeing a company stand behind their product! great job
My truck came out to 4.5" in the rear.

But...since you are going to end up buying my Deavers anyway:) you should get one for a 5" drop.
 

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Yeah, I have to agree with the guys above. I say just go with the tried and true bracket that has a 100% success rate. I think what I'm going to offer are 2 brackets, the 1.5" for trucks ranging from stock to 2" blocks, and then a 2" drop bracket for trucks that have 3" or more in the rear. I'll make the spec changes on my website right now. Even though it may "look" like this is a bit too much, this is the range that's been killing the vibes, and definitely not hurting u-joints at all. It's nowhere close to harming anything driveline related.

The way these were originally designed was my friend has a 08 2WD and he bought a 6" lift at a offroad show from 4WP and had them install it. It came with 3" aluminum rear blocks. Then he had me build him some 5" steel rear blocks and ran a air bag helper setup that would lift the rear to about the 7" range. So he would run around in the 5-7 range and told me he noticed a vibe.

When I looked under his truck it was clear his shaft needed to come down in the center some. I used a angle finder on each shaft and put about a 2-3 degree difference in them. This required a bracket that dropped 2.5".

I know he's higher than most guys in back, so having a couple years experience building these brackets now has shown me that my specs above are probably where we need to be to get the best results on these trucks with different rear lifts. I think the 2" one will be good for lifts at and above 3" (in the rear) since it's been discovered they need to drop 3/4" just in stock form.

I don't think going beyond 2.5" drop even for someone with a huge lift is necessary, however, if someone wanted more than 2.5" I could do it, but they also have the option of using spacers on the bracket to go beyond 2.5", but I think that's just going more than needed and a new shaft is in order at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I agree above^. If you are going with a LARGE lift- I would delete the center bearing carrier and just run a single rear driveshaft with a CV at the T-case. This would decrease the angles at the output and input. This is what most long travel systems run. Highangledriveline.com
 

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Hopefully I get mine soon. I am tired of the shutter I get, drives me nuts.
 

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I took 4 1/4 inch aluminum plates that actually had holes in them already and bolted them up... it made a difference...

3 potato soft taco's from taco bell: $3.18
fifth of 1792 bourbon :$34.99
Free carrier bearing drop: priceless


:lol5:

all spacers were machined and were uniform... bolts were long enough to bolt back up safely, no issues... was only 1/2 inch, but my rear is stock.
 
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