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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 V8 with 170k miles.
I pull a boat (just pulled a 700 mile round trip and it did fine).
I bought it used 3 years ago and am tryin to decide if it's worth putting $5000 in it to make it last another 6 years.
Will the motor and tranny get over 250k?
I've done the following already......
FRAME RECALL 2yrs ago
Shocks, struts
Upper control arm
All 8 coil packs
Fuel Tank

I figure the $5000 would be spent on....
Exhaust system (all of it-headers, cat converts, mufflers, ets)- $2000
Tires- $1200
Timing belt-$500
Starter- $500
Control arms- $1000

Do you think this truck will get 250k+ miles and make it worth putting this kind of $ in it?
 

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Heck yea! I would still be driving my first Gen if it missed the light pole on black ice day. 355,000 miles on engine and could go another 300 or more. It's a million mile engine. Check out Rock Auto for parts, $1,000 seams alot for control arms. Your truck looks good, I take it no rust? I would also consider the big brake upgrade, best Mod I did for my truck. It was also a 2000, but 2 wheel drive.
 

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I have a 2000 V8 with 170k miles.
I pull a boat (just pulled a 700 mile round trip and it did fine).
I bought it used 3 years ago and am tryin to decide if it's worth putting $5000 in it to make it last another 6 years.
Will the motor and tranny get over 250k?
I've done the following already......
FRAME RECALL 2yrs ago
Shocks, struts
Upper control arm
All 8 coil packs
Fuel Tank

I figure the $5000 would be spent on....
Exhaust system (all of it-headers, cat converts, mufflers, ets)- $2000
Tires- $1200
Timing belt-$500
Starter- $500
Control arms- $1000

Do you think this truck will get 250k+ miles and make it worth putting this kind of $ in it?
yes, i am original owner of 2001 limited tundra with just over 200k,, I would not sell it and I will take care as needed anything like you need..yes I spent about 5k in similiar upkeep.. it's better than buying a 50k new one!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Heck yea! I would still be driving my first Gen if it missed the light pole on black ice day. 355,000 miles on engine and could go another 300 or more. It's a million mile engine. Check out Rock Auto for parts, $1,000 seams alot for control arms. Your truck looks good, I take it no rust? I would also consider the big brake upgrade, best Mod I did for my truck. It was also a 2000, but 2 wheel drive.
Thanks. I did have the lower control arms done with the frame replacement, but the uppers are pretty rusty. A little rust around the rear wheel wells, but not too bad yet.
I did the front brakes last year.
Should I also do ball joints?
Any other recommendations?
 

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Yes, ball joints if worn. You can either get control arms with ball joints already in, (suggested) or separate. Inner and outer tie rods if worn and upgrade your rack bushings if old. Get the poly ones. It's all just preventive maintenance. Once your front end is all new and tight you will love it. No need to do a starter if nothing wrong with it. Timing belt, I get parts from Rock auto, belt would be Gates, waterpump by Aisin, the bearings and tensioner, Timken or Beck Arnley. Exhaust, why replace cats if nothing wrong, personally I would look into 02 sensor bypass and forget the Cats.
 

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Thanks. I did have the lower control arms done with the frame replacement, but the uppers are pretty rusty. A little rust around the rear wheel wells, but not too bad yet.
I did the front brakes last year.
Should I also do ball joints?
Any other recommendations?
I had the dealer do my timing belt ball joints and rear emergency brake cable and few other things manifold gasket. bill was over 3k.. felt ripped off.. i had my front wheel bearings steering rack done couple seasons ago.. the point i'm making is i can't afford a new TUNDRA so i take care and spend whatever is needed.. all new and old cost bucks to maintain.. so if the body and engine are in good enough shape now.. keep on top of it... changing oil is crucial. i use long milage 5-30w full synthetic amazon for my 4.7 limited.. going to clean the throttle body soon use seafoam also recommend crankcase oz. next 300 mile round trip change my oil..been in looks clean since last May.. but I will first try cleaning my intake valves .. the only thing i wil recommend is por 15 chasis and read end assembly to prevent future corrision.. i try to do my best.. was a little late and had to steel paste jbweld my rearend gear box cover (original) instead of forking out another few grand,, my repair DIY so far holding up very nicely no leaks after 500miles.. so hoping it lasts.. i do my pcv valve and air intake canister hoses next.. they are dry rotted(duct taped and clamped temporarily until i get the parts,, anything you can DIY save and when you have to get expert mechanic work spend the money..okay gl
 

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I don't get it. Are any of the "wish list" items broken? Just fix stuff when and if it breaks. Chances are it won't break. Preemptively putting in new exhaust and starter is a waste of time and money. Tires should not be under consideration, because you have to buys those for any vehicle. Again, only if they're worn out.
 

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I sure hope so, considering I've got a 2000 V8 with 187K! Yes, with proper maintenance (which it sounds like you do) it'll go way beyond 250,000.

I bought mine from my FIL with 155,000 because A) I know how meticulous he is about thing like service intervals and car care & B) It's a Toyota, and the Tercel, Tacoma, and 4Runner I've owned were amazingly trouble free for hundreds of thousands of miles.

Mine does a fair bit of towing, a little off roading/desert exploring, and while I don't "abuse" my vehicles like an idiot, I damn sure don't baby 'em either. It has never left me stranded.

A few grand to keep the 2000 going vs what... $50,000 + for a new one?

882257
882258

882259
 

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Definitely put the money in. I had a 2000 limited 4.7L w/ 190k miles and would still be driving it if someone didn't blow through a stop sign and t-bone it bending a new frame (was replaced under recall).

Do the starter and upper control arms as planned ( tires if needed) but skip the rest until you need it. that truck will easily go another 100k.

I currently have a 2010 w/ 206k miles and just spent $5k on a plow for it. I plan on keeping it around for more years.
 

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2020 tundra trd sport midnight black
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I would for sure put the money into it I had a 2000 with roughly 200,000 it burned in a fire or else I would still be driving it
 

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I have a 2000 V8 with 170k miles.
I pull a boat (just pulled a 700 mile round trip and it did fine).
I bought it used 3 years ago and am tryin to decide if it's worth putting $5000 in it to make it last another 6 years.
Will the motor and tranny get over 250k?
I've done the following already......
FRAME RECALL 2yrs ago
Shocks, struts
Upper control arm
All 8 coil packs
Fuel Tank

I figure the $5000 would be spent on....
Exhaust system (all of it-headers, cat converts, mufflers, ets)- $2000
Tires- $1200
Timing belt-$500
Starter- $500
Control arms- $1000

Do you think this truck will get 250k+ miles and make it worth putting this kind of $ in it?
Heck yes I'd do that.
 

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If it were any other brand of truck, my answer would be much easier: "No." Happily, however, you have a Toyota! There are currently (at least) two, documented cases of 4.7L Toyota trucks exceeding 1,000,000 miles--Toyota bought back the first one and gave the owner a new Tundra. (Neither of those trucks needed internal engine work, and both needed trans work--one was replaced, but opinions were expressed that that trans could have been repaired, instead. Both of those transmissions needed work in the 700,000 mile-range, on their way to hitting the 1,000,000 mile mark.)

The first 5.7L Tundra (that I know of) is approaching the 1,000,000 mile mark--you can find the post on this forum. IIRC, the owner was in the 900,000+ mile range, expecting to hit 1 million miles this year. I'm sure if I'm off on the details, I will have my (virtual) ears "pinned back," shortly.

A compression test will give you a good picture of the internal health of your engine. And others will suggest an oil analysis, which I've never had done, but which sounds like a good idea, also. I hope to do that, in the future--but not driving enough, these days (COVID-19) to make it worthwhile--for me. YMMV--literally. Good luck!
 

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So from reading this thread, it would appear that the only way to kill a Tundra is by T-Bone, light pole, or fire. (y):giggle:

Otherwise, feed them gas, oil, and brains, and they just keep going.

882265
 

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Long term proposition. Personally I have no problem spending money on a vehicle if it is in good shape. The Tundra is very capable of going the long haul.
 

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I own my 2nd tundra 5.7 First one got 278000 miles before getting rear ended (2007) tundra. 2nd tundra at 286800 now present also 5.7 (2008). Hard miles for work, if Toyota makes a competitive New model in 2022 would buy it in a heart beat!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks all. UPDATE. Took it to the dealership for an inspection. They said it's going to need...
1) Entire Rear Axle
2) Front Diff. Rebuild (leaking seals
3) Timing belt
I also took it to an exhaust place and the said that they headers and everything else is fine for now and I should only have to replace stuff if/when leaks arise.

So, I just scraped around the Rear Diff cover (×welded on) and found the leak. So I'm just going to replace that, the Ebrake Levers, and probably- just pull the rear axle and replace anything that needs replaced (dust covers, maybe new axle seals since I'm in there). This will give me a chance to strip and paint the rear xfer case and axle. Pretty corroded put looks to be structurally sound.

So on top of the Rear Diff plate, the dust covers and new E brake levers, and resurfacing the axle and Rear Diff, I'll have the dealer do the timing belt and take it for a 2nd opinion on the Front Diff seals (since my dealership tried to gouge me on the rear axle- $1700 Part)
 

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I had a 2001 that I regret getting rid of. While you are in doing the timing belt do the water pump too as it is under the timing belt cover (if I remember correctly).
 
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