I once depended on hydraulic jacks and improvised materials to support vehicle weight for extended periods without jack stands...not anymore. You shouldn't think of jack stands as an additional expense...think of them as an investment in the necessary tools to do the work properly, and cheap insurance to keep your Tundra from crushing you. I wouldn't remove and replace those huge tires twice just to avoid spending a few bucks buying proper tools. The bigger problem, in my opinion, is storing all that heavy iron for years until you need it again.
But, my preaching doesn't address your question. I haven't removed Tundra rotors before, so I have no idea what kind of hub surface is below that "hat" that fits over the studs...maybe it is flat and smooth where the rotor contacts the hub, maybe not. Anyway, as a minimum, I would say that your lug nuts had better be open on top, because they may not have enough depth to pull up the additional length representing the thickness of the rotor at the studs. If you try this, and you feel the lug nuts bottoming out, or the stainless cover over the lug nut bulging out before the wheel is torqued properly, it will be time to abandon this idea, and go buy the proper tools. And don't go cheap. The best ones are made with welded heavy angle iron bases, cast iron upper adjustment mechanisms, and as always, made in China.
