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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone replaced the factory speakers with aftermarket? Big improvement?

Also I'm wondering what size of speakers will fit in the fronts and rears to replace the factory ones. I'm hoping 6x9 in the front and 6 1/2 in the rear.

Has anyone tackled the removal of the door panels to do the speaker swap?
 

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anything aftermarket will be better than stock OEM speakers. I thought the 07 thru 2013's were bad, these are even worse. Any amount of bass beyond factory mid-way setting even 2 clicks over on bass and they bong and suck just horrible. Yet another way Toyota cheapened up the 2014 and think we didn't notice.
 

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I added a JL audio amp, disconnected the factory one under the passenger seat, added full range 6 x 9's in the front doors, full range 6 1/2's in the back doors and replaced both dash tweeters all with Infinity speakers. I did nothing to the center channel speaker and the new system absolutely rocks! It's the best set-up I have ever had in a vehicle, crystal clear and loud. I may at some point add a sub woofer but not sure I really need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I added a JL audio amp, disconnected the factory one under the passenger seat, added full range 6 x 9's in the front doors, full range 6 1/2's in the back doors and replaced both dash tweeters all with Infinity speakers. I did nothing to the center channel speaker and the new system absolutely rocks! It's the best set-up I have ever had in a vehicle, crystal clear and loud. I may at some point add a sub woofer but not sure I really need it.
Wow! Great job. Couple questions - when you disconnected the amp under the passenger seat did you remove it and put the JL Audio amp in the same place? Did you keep your stock head unit? Also, what tweeters (model? size?) did you put in the dash? Did you Dynamat your doors? Lots of questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Doors are very easy to remove...
There are many videos on you tube showing the last gen. Ours are the same...


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I've removed the door panels in my 2010 and you are right, it was easy. Only question about that is on the 2010 doors there is a grey 6-8" cover where the power window buttons are and I removed that before removing the door panel. Does the same apply to the 2014 panels or can I just remove the two screws holding the panel and unplug the wiring for the power window underneath?
 

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Stock audio is complete garbage in these trucks. Pretty much anything aftermarket will blow away the stock audio. You can fit any mid/high speakers you want - it's a simple case of making new speaker pods/mounting rings out of MDF. The question is how much are you into car audio, and how much you want to spend. The bigger you go the more rattles you'll have to chase down. I had my entire interior from the door panels down covered in Dynomat and I'm still chasing rattles. However, I expected that as I always do...maybe I'll grow out of competition quality audio, but I hope not!
 

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I am really started to get annoyed by my window control buttons vibrating. the stock truck has more bass (surprisingly) than my wife's '09 BMW but that results in rattling. If I put my hand on the window controls then it stops. Any way to stop this from happening? I imagine it would be worse when I put new speakers in....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am really started to get annoyed by my window control buttons vibrating. the stock truck has more bass (surprisingly) than my wife's '09 BMW but that results in rattling. If I put my hand on the window controls then it stops. Any way to stop this from happening? I imagine it would be worse when I put new speakers in....
I have a vibration problem from my drivers side woofer as well. In the last truck I used Dynamat and vibrations became less annoying if not completely gone. Dynamat tightens everything up and provides a dead vibration zone for the door and speakers. While you are in there check to make sure all plastic clips are in tact and nothing is loose or rubbing against something else.
 

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I have a vibration problem from my drivers side woofer as well. In the last truck I used Dynamat and vibrations became less annoying if not completely gone. Dynamat tightens everything up and provides a dead vibration zone for the door and speakers. While you are in there check to make sure all plastic clips are in tact and nothing is loose or rubbing against something else.
It seems to actually be the toggle that makes the window go up and down. I can stop it with one finger on the button. The rest of the door is fine. I'll just pour a little sugary soda in the buttons to snug them up. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It seems to actually be the toggle that makes the window go up and down. I can stop it with one finger on the button. The rest of the door is fine. I'll just pour a little sugary soda in the buttons to snug them up. :p
If be bringing that to the dealer to repair.
 

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If all else fails, you can probably wedge a tiny piece of paper behind the switch. I had to do that to my sunglass holder - you can't see it but it's there and it works!
 
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