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Oct 2009 ToTM Winner
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well after 3 sets of bent spindles in my Rough Country lift and 3 busted axles I decided it was time to take it off.

Only really issue was I had to cut one part of the drop bracket but everything else went as expected. Probably the biggest surprise was my truck drive angles improved over all but the truck only lowered 2.5 inches. To most the truck looks the same but I notice a fairly large difference when standing next to it. Here are some pics.

Also on the Kings I had to remove a 4" Sleeve spacer that was between the lower mount and coil sping lower perch. It just simply slipped over part of the shock rod and in the process really hurt the over all hock travel. I gained 3" of front travel by lowering it 2.5"..... Go figure.



Total Chaos Gussets



Before final adjustments to the coil overs


How it sits after everything is done




Little workout too ;)
 

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Bro, do you even lift? :lol: Your truck still looks jacked, love it!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bro, do you even lift? :lol: Your truck still looks jacked, love it!

Actually No I don't lift, although my larger than normal Pecs may confuse you:lol5:. Had to trim down to cut weight for Mtn Bike racing, no real need for big muscles when you are pedaling a bike through tight trails for 3hrs at a time.

As for the truck I was amazed it didn't sit lower over all. I may lower the back 1.5" but still not to sure on that.
 

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Na. Looks perfect just how it sits. The truck, not your pecs.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Had to rip this front apart to take this busted piece of junk out.

Steering Rack with 22,000 miles, toasted.
 

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Ouch. Make sure you take that up with warranty. Plenty of rack failures with '10's and up.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
how did you go about taking it out? just curious.
First you need to disconnect the tie rod ends and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. If you don't you will just have to half ass connect the steering link to turn the rack to get it out from the frame in the end anyway.

Remove Steering rack bolts and steering link, take of the Serpentine belt, remove A/C compressor (just unbolt it so you can slide it away from the engine), remove coolant lines to oil filter unit, disconnect steering lines, remove oil filter unit.

Then push the steering rack all the way to the passenger side and twist it out the front of the frame on the driver side. It barely fits but it does. Oh an you have to do everything I listed above otherwise you can't get the oil filter unit off and without that off you can't get the rack out.

It is a pain in the ass no way around it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well my ball joints were bad. Truck sat for near 4 months due to it and I wasted $900 in other crap.

Last thing I thought of were the ball joints since they only had 400mi on the new lowers/ball joints but once you jump a truck amount of miles means nothing.

Put in new steering rack, took out the lift (wanted to do it anyway), swapped outer tie rods, new upper ball joints. But in the end it was the lowers that needed to be changed.

Now it is time to drive it until I break it again.......... Most likely in a week or so :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The front is showing ~.5" thread on the driver side and ~1.5" on the passenger side to get the truck to sit level. A side not on my coils though. They are originally built with 4" lower sleeves to stiffen the coil and allow for lift. I removed the sleeve and to my knowledge the shock rod is longer than a normal King coil over for a Tundra.

Out back I have Deaver Springs and King Bypasses.
 
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