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Great write up OP. I have a Pro Comp 6" Stage 1 kit on my truck and want to get down to as close to 4" Bad Dads Tundra has recommended that I remove the coil spacer completely and Chieflikalotapus recommends that I change swap the 6" spacer for the 4".

Which would you recommend out of these two options? I'm gonna hit up PC tomorrow to see what they say also, just figured I'd ask you. Are there any issues that you can think of that might result from this, ie driveline, tie rod angles, etc?
 

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Great write up OP. I have a Pro Comp 6" Stage 1 kit on my truck and want to get down to as close to 4" Bad Dads Tundra has recommended that I remove the coil spacer completely and Chieflikalotapus recommends that I change swap the 6" spacer for the 4".

Which would you recommend out of these two options? I'm gonna hit up PC tomorrow to see what they say also, just figured I'd ask you. Are there any issues that you can think of that might result from this, ie driveline, tie rod angles, etc?
If you take the spring block out it should sit right at 4-4.5 inches and ride much better.But im not sure if the shocks spring is more suspectable to come into contact with tie rod at full lock.At 4 inches the stearing geometry is at factory anlges they push the procomp to achieve 6-7 inches but at the sacrifice of wear and tare on cv boots and bushings.Why they and others say it retains factory geometry beets me imo its false advertisement.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Sorry, I've been out of town on business for a while.

Anyways, definitely take out the puck on top of the spring. Like Turttle said, doing so will actually improve the angles in your front end and improve your ride quality. Other than losing height and possibly causing some tire rub, there are no negatives.

Also, a quick update on how my 4" kit is doing. This WI winter and the battlefield known as our roadways have taken their toll. The front end makes a good clunk when moving from a stop. I honestly can't tell if something is loose or if the calipers are sticking. Either way I am going to have to get it into the shop eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
You will need to give me a couple of days to get a pic of the CVs.

The kit is holding up well. The right lower control arm bolt did come loose and that was causing the knocking. It also makes some not so flattering noises when turning sharp and going over bumps. But I'm not sure why because everything is nice and solid with the kit. It might be a little quieter if the metal was thicker gauge. But I didn't go BDS because I don't like their knuckles. Overall I am still satisfied with it and would still recommend it. :beerchug:
 

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Not sure what the noise could be.Possible the urethane bushings But would be hard to pin point with out actually hearing it.Sorry to just make a guess.But any way what I am going to do is have a skid plate made up.Just a 3/8s inch of steal or something and have it powder coated or just some industrial streangth rustoleum in a rattle can.(pretty good paint dries fast and hard to chip).There should be 4 bolt holes on the cross members that are pre threaded shouldn't be to hard or expensive but it will lock it togeather pretty good.Tundra frames flex quite a bit.When installing the kit they say not to torque some of the bolts all the way until its off the lift and stitting on level ground.
 

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You will need to give me a couple of days to get a pic of the CVs.

The kit is holding up well. The right lower control arm bolt did come loose and that was causing the knocking. It also makes some not so flattering noises when turning sharp and going over bumps. But I'm not sure why because everything is nice and solid with the kit. It might be a little quieter if the metal was thicker gauge. But I didn't go BDS because I don't like their knuckles. Overall I am still satisfied with it and would still recommend it. :beerchug:
would the noise just be tire rub? are they like grinding noises?
do you know if it would be possible to use stock wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
would the noise just be tire rub? are they like grinding noises?
do you know if it would be possible to use stock wheels?
Stock 18" wheels won't work with this kit. I do have some slight rub at full lock if I am bouncing over something. The rest of the noise is likely the suspension kit brackets being forced to shift by frame flex. As for the pics, sorry, this week has been hell. This one should work though.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
To be honest, I'm not really sure. My truck had 18's so I never investigated that. I think that I have seen pictures of someone run that setup though. Worst case is that you would need some spacers up front.

Actually the bigger issue is dealing with the spare tire. As far as I know you can't get a 20" steel wheel for these things. So you either have to stick a nice expensive rim under the bed, or use the 18 and hope that you only get a flat in the rear.
 

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To be honest, I'm not really sure. My truck had 18's so I never investigated that. I think that I have seen pictures of someone run that setup though. Worst case is that you would need some spacers up front.

Actually the bigger issue is dealing with the spare tire. As far as I know you can't get a 20" steel wheel for these things. So you either have to stick a nice expensive rim under the bed, or use the 18 and hope that you only get a flat in the rear.
i think i will probably have to look into wheel spacers. can you take a measurement from the ground to the tailgate with the tailgate down?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Just to repeat this, the rear setup is the Pro Comp lift blocks with 3" shackles. I didn't use the add-a-leaves from the kit. With that setup my tailgate sits right at 3' off the ground. Since I am 6'1" it's not too bad getting in the bed. But loading a motorcycle is not really an option any more.
 

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Just to repeat this, the rear setup is the Pro Comp lift blocks with 3" shackles. I didn't use the add-a-leaves from the kit. With that setup my tailgate sits right at 3' off the ground. Since I am 6'1" it's not too bad getting in the bed. But loading a motorcycle is not really an option any more.
thats ok for me. i got 8 foot ramps to load my bike and quad. i had a tacoma that was 40 inches from tailgate to ground and those ramps were fine. if i just used the add a leafs would it be lower or higher than yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Sorry, I have been out of town on business. Anyways, the add a leaves should make it the same height as mine. My biggest concern with using them was how stiff the ride would be. The Pro Comp shocks alone make the ride noticeably harsher.
 

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Sorry, I have been out of town on business. Anyways, the add a leaves should make it the same height as mine. My biggest concern with using them was how stiff the ride would be. The Pro Comp shocks alone make the ride noticeably harsher.
i guess i'll find out in two weeks. i just ordered it today.
 
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