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Discussion Starter #1
Ok we'll I have had the griots polisher and pads sitting and waiting.....

It's finally time to polish and wax the truck.
My question is what is the proffered polish and wax to use with my polisher?

I'm pretty sure all it came with was red pads...are they ok to use?

I have some slight spider webbing action going on the truck and would like to make it go away.

Thanks
 

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I'm a big Menzerna fan. They work great and are super easy to apply and remove.

Menzerna SIP 1500 - for light no medium polishing and correction.
Menzerna SF 4000 - jeweling and light polish.

You'll need more pads, I'd recommend an orange pad for polishing and light correction. And use a white pad for jeweling and light polish. Grab a couple of each color so you have extra on hand.

Waxes and sealants are subjective, everyone likes something different.

Some of my favorites:

Zaino Z-2
Zaino Z-5
Menzerna PowerLock
FourStar PUPP
FK1 1000p
Collinites #845 - can be found at most auto parts stores.
 

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I love Meguair's #26. I always keep coming back to it. It doesn't last as long, but I'm one of those wax at least once a month type of people. To me I like the smell, ease of use, look, and finished feel.
 
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The Groit's Red Pads are for applying Wax.

You'll need some Groit's Orange Pads and polishing compound to work on the swirls.

1.) Wash Truck

2.) Clay Bar Truck (removes existing wax and surface contaminates)

3.) Polish Truck using Orange Pads and polishing compound to remove swirls, always clay truck before doing this so you don't grind surface stuff into the paint.

4.) Wax and/or Sealant using Red Pads.

With the size of these trucks figure on ~ 8 hrs. +/- 4 hrs depending on ability and how bad existing surface is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey guys thanks for the feedback. I went and looked and I do have some orange and white pads also. The swirls are not horrible but they are there and with the dark color truck it seems that is all I look at.

Is it safe to assume clay bars are all made alike? I could just grab one from auto zone or Wally World correct?
 

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I'm a huge fan of Zaino. It's what I use on my vette and what I will use on the Tundra as soon I get a free minute. The first time, it's a pain to do, but the finished product is awesome.
 

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Is it safe to assume clay bars are all made alike? I could just grab one from auto zone or Wally World correct?
Yes and no. There are fine grade clays and medium grade clays. Most everything you'll find in an auto parts store will be a fine grade clay, which is what you'll want. Medium grade clays are mostly used in body shops and can lightly scuff the paint. The scuffs will come out with polish, but if you dont plan to polish its always better to use the fine grade. The medium grade clays are for removing heavy amounts of over spray.

I buy Clay Magic, Mothers, Sonax or Griots clays. Sonax can only be found online, but the others you'll find in the stores.
 

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I'm a huge fan of Zaino. It's what I use on my vette and what I will use on the Tundra as soon I get a free minute. The first time, it's a pain to do, but the finished product is awesome.
I love Zaino too, but I never get why people think its such a pain in the ass to use. I find it no more time consuming than any other sealant I use. What part of the process are you finding difficult?
 

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In addition to the information already provided, I would also look into a Nano Skin kit. It's used in substitute for a clay bar...I mean don't get me wrong, claying a car with a clay bar is good, but claying a car with Nano skin (saves you a lot of time) plus it can be used with your DA buffer? If I may, I'd recommend using a good sealant after you've clayed, polished/wax your baby. Opti-Coat make a great sealant...it's not the only one, there's several on the market. I do detailing on the side. I would check out detailersdomain. Great prices! They also have a sub-website: detailingbliss, click on their "show and shine" and you'll be able to see what members have used w/ their vehicles, to include pics, etc. GL and keep us posted.

Mods if I'm not allowed to post names or links, I apologize...please feel free to delete or edit.

steve
 

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No problem. We support Phil and Detailers Domain here. He's a great guy, great products and great service.

Another vote for the Nano Skin. A real time saver.
 

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The zaino is great stuff. Not bad to use ... Basically wash your truck with Dawn dish soap ... And start putting on coats. I used it on my metallic grey Tacoma DC and is REAL mice on dark colors. Problem is now I have a white truck .... Guess I'll still give it a whirl.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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No need for Dawn, its high alkaline content is terrible for plastics and trim. Any car wash shampoo is fine if you are claying before applying. Claying will remove any contaminants and leave the surface prepped and ready for Zaino, or any other sealants. If you decide not to clay, a quick 50/50 IPA wipe down works just as well.
 

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Anyone with experience here ever heard good or bad things about opticoat? I'm not really considering using it but a friend of mine just bought some and I can't find much Info about it so I figured I'd see if I can find opinions so I can tell him if people say its crap before he uses it on his truck.


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Anyone with experience here ever heard good or bad things about opticoat? I'm not really considering using it but a friend of mine just bought some and I can't find much Info about it so I figured I'd see if I can find opinions so I can tell him if people say its crap before he uses it on his truck.


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I'm attaching a link w/ some reviews on OC (OC-2), plus directions on use. You won't be dissappointed, well worth the money...IMO.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Optimum-Opti-Coat-2_p_326.html

steve
 

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Yes, much different than PL. Opticoat 2.0 seals the paint with a permanent, clear resin coating. PL can be removed with a quick claying or IPA wipe down. With Opticoat, once its on, it's on. You must bring your A game when doing your prep work prior to applying Opticoat.
 

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Yes, much different than PL. Opticoat 2.0 seals the paint with a permanent, clear resin coating. PL can be removed with a quick claying or IPA wipe down. With Opticoat, once its on, it's on. You must bring your A game when doing your prep work prior to applying Opticoat.
Gotcha...does it do the same thing as PL, or would PL still be necessary for protection?

It sounds like it's a "no going back" situation with Opticoat...
 

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You can top it with PL. Prep work should be pretty good, because once you put it on, that's what you'll be looking at for awhile.
 

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You can top it with PL. Prep work should be pretty good, because once you put it on, that's what you'll be looking at for awhile.
I understand that it is basically a clear coat replacement/enhancement...I'm just wondering if it's necessary to do unless you have a damaged clearcoat or if it's just extra protection in case the PL wears out...Is that making any sense?

In short, what would be the advantage over where things are presently on my truck?
 
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