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Over heating only while towing : UPDATE!

1576 Views 22 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Nwflboy
2015 5.7, 174,000 miles. Going nuts here trying to find the issue. About 5 weeks ago, truck began running very warm with my 8.5x18 enclosed trailer at 60 mph on the highway, about 3/4 of the way up on the gauge. Limped it home and popped the hood to find coolant shot out of the reservoir. Took the radiator cap off and it had fallen apart. Replaced with OEM for $25 and thought I solved the problem. A few days later, starter died so took it in for a new starter, tech told me I had coolant splash on the firewall and needed a new gasket (not the head gasket), had gasket replaced. Truck still running warm at this point and last week my radiator split at the top, shot coolant everywhere and had truck towed to dealer for new radiator. Because of the miles, had them replace radiator, water pump, thermostat, all new hoses and clamps. Truck is still running hot while towing, same 3/4 of the way up on the gauge, but I’ve never let it get to the red. It runs perfect without the trailer and can idle for an hour in the driveway and never get warm. Service manager and master tech are stumped. They pressure tested the system and no leaks.

Ive thought about the fan clutch, but it’s not running warm at idle, only at highway speeds with the trailer. I was always to think that the fan isn’t doing much at that speed on the highway, but it is engaging at idle. It’s the only thing they didn’t replace

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
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Did they check the fan clutch? It is one of the most over looked items
That fan should ROAR when temps get up there . You will hear it .

No roar , fan clutch no workie
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Thanks so much for the replys. They say the clutch is fine, but how the hell do they really know until they replace it? It ran warm again yesterday with the trailer on going 45mph and around 1200 rpm. Take the trailer off and it’s fine. I loaded it with 30 bags of wet mulch yesterday morning without the trailer and it was no problem at all. Only with the trailer is when it heats up. My neighbor was a Lexus mechanic for 15 years, he’s leaning heavily towards the clutch as well. He says if it’s not the clutch, the head gasket has a pinhole leak in it. Can’t really be anything else…everything else has been replaced with new
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Opened a case with Toyota, but it’s pretty much been a dead end of no call backs. Took matters into my own hands this morning and replaced the fan clutch as well as the temp sensor. Same as before, no leaks or overheating at all without the trailer. I’ll test it with the big trailer tomorrow. Going to replace my trailer bearings and brakes in the morning in case the brakes are worn and causing slight drag causing the truck to run warm. Trying to eliminate all potential problems.
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Opened a case with Toyota, but it’s pretty much been a dead end of no call backs. Took matters into my own hands this morning and replaced the fan clutch as well as the temp sensor. Same as before, no leaks or overheating at all without the trailer. I’ll test it with the big trailer tomorrow. Going to replace my trailer bearings and brakes in the morning in case the brakes are worn and causing slight drag causing the truck to run warm. Trying to eliminate all potential problems.
Was going to say if you can find another trailer to test out but you beat me to it.
Jumbo, I would wonder if when the cap failed some of the seal is clogging a water passage. Seen it before on here.

And I would have said to look at the fan clutch, which you replaced. Just realized I haven't been around to browse, late to the game.
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Jumbo, I would wonder if when the cap failed some of the seal is clogging a water passage. Seen it before on here.

And I would have said to look at the fan clutch, which you replaced. Just realized I haven't been around to browse, late to the game.
Yeah, I keep kinda going back to that too. I saw those threads as well with the broken pieces in the crossover tube. That broken cap was the start of all my issues. I worked on the trailer all day today, I put all new bearings, new brakes and drums. Damn truck is still running warm after the test run. What’s strange is, it’s only getting warm with the trailer on, and around the 1200rpm range. At higher rpm’s or at idle/stop lights…. it comes right back down. I took my boat fishing yesterday, boat weighs less than 1000 lbs, and drove 45 min each way and zero issues. But as soon as I hook the big trailer up, the temp starts to climb.

At this point, I’m ready to park this thing on the railroad tracks and wish it well. I have literally replaced every single item in the cooling system. Toyota corporate is going nowhere…multiple calls daily and have yet to get a call back.
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Have you tried turning your heater and fan on full blast to see if that drops the temperature?
Have you tried turning your heater and fan on full blast to see if that drops the temperature?
I have, same results. After completely ruling out the trailer, and replacing every component in the cooling system, we are 100% convinced we have a small flow blockage. It really can’t be anything else at this point. My buddy is going to take it home this week and tear apart the coolant jacket and find the blockage. He’s convinced theres a piece of that broken cap blocking the flow. He’s a very good mechanic, I’m sure he’ll come up with something. Got to Tier 2 complaint department with Toyota, but big surprise…no response in two days after many calls.

I’ll be placing a special order on a new F-350 in a few months. If I can make it last until the end of the year I’ll be in good shape. This whole ordeal has been driving me nuts, trying to run a small business with an overheating truck is not fun.
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I have, same results. After completely ruling out the trailer, and replacing every component in the cooling system, we are 100% convinced we have a small flow blockage. It really can’t be anything else at this point. My buddy is going to take it home this week and tear apart the coolant jacket and find the blockage. He’s convinced theres a piece of that broken cap blocking the flow. He’s a very good mechanic, I’m sure he’ll come up with something. Got to Tier 2 complaint department with Toyota, but big surprise…no response in two days after many calls.

I’ll be placing a special order on a new F-350 in a few months. If I can make it last until the end of the year I’ll be in good shape. This whole ordeal has been driving me nuts, trying to run a small business with an overheating truck is not fun.
Keep us posted with your results. We can all learn something here . . .
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BIG UPDATE!!!

After a total dead end with corporate and the dealer, my buddy and I decided to tear it open and see if we could solve this issue on our own. My buddy is a very good mechanic and has been screaming from day one that there is a clog causing a flow problem. Everything stemmed from the radiator cap falling apart, that’s where all my problems started. Now keep in mind, I told this to the service writer at the dealer, the tech himself and even the service manager….I even sent them all the link to this forum with photos of others with debris in the crossover from the cap and asked them to check. I was told it was a million to one shot that that could be the problem…. needless to say, they never looked. I handed them a possible solid solution on a silver platter, and they shrugged it off. Complete incompetence or total laziness….. either way, I learned a valuable lesson with this whole ordeal. My wife and I just finished building our new house. After 2 years of construction, my biggest take away from the whole process was …. pride in craftsmanship is dead, and nobody cares. It was a full time job baby sitting shitty, lazy subs that do half assed work. This truck repair wasnt much different.

My buddy took the truck to his house Sunday afternoon. He had a plan and knew right where to start. First thing he removed was the large hose going from the top of the radiator to the crossover pipe. 10 minutes into the job, and what do we have here?…

Automotive fuel system Fluid Motor vehicle Automotive tire Auto part


Yep, you guessed it, he found cap debris, and lots of it. It was exactly where the original guy who posted before found it, right in the bowl of the crossover pipe, just before the temp sensor. Right where I told the Toyota tech to look. Unbelievable how much debris was in there.

Outerwear Human body Sleeve Water T-shirt


We had to order new gaskets and grab another gallon of coolant (of course from another dealer), but he completely pulled the crossover pipe out to inspect and clean. He’ll be putting everything back together this evening and I will test it with the big trailer in the morning. I am very grateful for my friends help and knowledge as well as the help and knowledge of this forum. If not for that original post finding this issue, I would have given up on it. I went thru 2 months of total bullshit with the dealer and limping around town so the truck wouldn’t over heat. My friend found the problem in 10 minutes.

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Check this vid out. Is this maybe the problem??

Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me. Intermittent overheating. Thanks for posting that
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Glad it helped. As soon as I read your post I recalled a vid about some kind of part failure causing those issues, but had to search it out..
I've change out my cap.
Yeah, from here forward, I’ll change my cap out yearly. It’s extremely cheap insurance to not have to go thru this twice.
Quick follow up for today. Hooked the big trailer up today for work and took off down the highway. Truck ran absolutely perfect at 60 mph and lower rpm! That speed/rpm combo was my kiss of death before this fix. Ran at that speed for around 6 miles and that needle didn’t move one millimeter. So far it appears my problem has been fixed! Spent $2000 with Toyota and they couldn’t fix it. My buddy fixed it in about and hour and total cost was $6. Only had to buy 2 new gaskets. Truly hope this thread helps someone in the future.
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Spent $2000 with Toyota and they couldn’t fix it. My buddy fixed it in about and hour and total cost was $6. Only had to buy 2 new gaskets.
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Agree with you that sometimes friends know more about the issues, and can sure help you out and save aggravation and money.
Radiator cap:
Toyota OEM 16401-36020 retail about $21
TRD PTR040000003 retail about $38
I wonder if upgrading to the TRD cap would avoid the plastic failure problem of the OEM?
Radiator cap:
Toyota OEM 16401-36020 retail about $21
TRD PTR040000003 retail about $38
I wonder if upgrading to the TRD cap would avoid the plastic failure problem of the OEM?
Dont know about the construction, but TRD is rated 18.5 psi compared to a typical 15-16 psi cap. TRD raises the coolant boiling point about 10 ºF.
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