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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any ideas why my new rotors and pads would be rubbing slightly. I have done the bedding procedure and driven approximately 100 miles and they still seem to rub too much. My fuel economy is down from 14.5 avg. to 13.2 with the new pads and rotors. While driving on the highway my 2007 CM noticeably slows down quicker than before when letting off the gas. Is this something that will just wear in or is something wrong with my brake system ( calipers, MC or ?? ) or installation error. Brand new Hawk LTS Pads and Power Slot rotors on all four corners are causing this due to the width of the new pads being slightly too thick?
 

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Sure sounds like it. Were you sure your caliper pistons were pushed All the way Back in? Your front tires (when jacked off the ground) should spin pretty freely.. I once had to use a belt sander to shave down some aftermarket premium pads..
 
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ride the break :)
 
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My '07 DC with 87000 miles, and original pads 'n rotors, you won't "spin" any of the wheels;you can turn them by hand, but no spinning. I haven't seen any disc brake equipped vehicle that you could spin the wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Brakes Rubbing

Well the rubbing seems to be diminishing so I will assume that they need to wear down a little bit more and all will be well. I will update after a couple hundred more miles. No smoking or extremely hot rotors observed also the truck really does not pull to one side or the other from a stuck caliper out on the highway.

Thanks for the replies. I was worried about ruining $600 worth of new brake
pads and rotors.
 

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Sorry you took it literally. :roll eyes:
Can you turn the wheel freely?
The OP asked a specific question concerning a not-so-small investment and your flippant answer would,(if taken literally) given him a reason for concern;the only reason I posted lol :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well the noise has quieted some and the mileage has increased but not back to where it was. It may be the summer blend gas that is causing the decrease. I had my tires rotated last week and they said only a little drag on the left rear fronts were spinning freely. All I can figure is maybe I have a wheel bearing or cv joint starting to go out I am currently at 93K miles. I have no idea why the rear rotor would be hanging up I would really be surprised if it warped in such a short amount of time although I did not buy the cryo-treated rotors for the rear just slotted.
 

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My gf's heep liberty needed new front brakes at 60k or so. She had them done at about 40k when she bought it. I replaced front rotors and calipers and pads. I found the new pads didn't fit great, they were hanging up in the caliper, I actually had to take my grinder with a cookie on it and shave/shape and polish the edges that they ride/slide on to get them to fit right... Low and behold MY brake job made it to 128k.... She is now just on the squeak tabs... Funny, oem brake job lasted 40, shops lasted 20, mine lasted over 60k...

Things to look for when doing a brake job. If the pads can't move they will rub excessively and wear prematurely...
 

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I just installed the same set-up on my '08. I have to say it was the worst brake job I've every had to deal with for a lot of reasons. Long story short, I had trouble with noise/drag on the rears. The noise I had was caused by a rubbing dust plate for the parking brake. The only way to adjust it is to remove the tire and caliper and manually adjust it. The drag was my own fault and due to over tightening the parking brake. Once I backed it off it was fine.

I'd suggest if you have an infrared thermometer handy I would take it for a spin and then shoot all the brakes and see if any one is noticeably hotter than the other. If they are all about the same temperature I wouldn't worry about it.

I'll also add that they Hawk pads are darn thick and you have to have the calipers pushed as far in as possible or they will not fit over the rotors. You will be able to spin the wheels if the whole axle is off the ground, but there will be some drag.

All in all I am happy with the brakes. They are much more responsive than the factory brakes. I'll be taking them out with the camper next week and will report back then.
 

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Well the rubbing seems to be diminishing so I will assume that they need to wear down a little bit more and all will be well. I will update after a couple hundred more miles. No smoking or extremely hot rotors observed also the truck really does not pull to one side or the other from a stuck caliper out on the highway.

Thanks for the replies. I was worried about ruining $600 worth of new brake
pads and rotors.
Sam on, I had a local shop install my new slotted rotor and pads and feel it rubbing too.. bet it I too am losing mpg.. I'm going to lift and hand spin each wheel until I feel which is rubbing.. it could be the back brake shoes and possibly drums.
 

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Which Hawk Pads did the OP use? LTS, Performance Ceramic or Severe Duty ?

I'm also shopping new pads and don't want to go with the LTS if they don't fit good.
 

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Sam on, I had a local shop install my new slotted rotor and pads and feel it rubbing too.. bet it I too am losing mpg.. I'm going to lift and hand spin each wheel until I feel which is rubbing.. it could be the back brake shoes and possibly drums.
Trucks haven't had drums and shoes in a long time...
 
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