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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New Nitro 4.88 Gear Install does this sound normal (video)

I was told that these sounds were normal by the shop who performed the work. I am having a lot of trouble believing this. The whirling sound starts around 28 seconds building to 32/33 seconds at about 55 mph I let off at 39 seconds so you can hear the difference between the tires and the rear diff and back slightly on the gas pedal at 40 seconds whirl starts again off gas pedal at 44seconds back on the gas at 46 seconds whirl again. But what really has me concerned is what happens at 50-51 seconds. I was told this is normal. Does this sound normal for a new Install of Nitro Gears on a 2010 Toyota Tundra with only 39,000 miles and all new bearings kits and shims ? part installed below.

Here is the video from my Go-Pro Hero
My New Nitro 488 Gear Install on 2010 Toyota Tundra - YouTube


Brand new Kits purchased and Installed
Part # T9R-488R-NG - '10 Tundra Crew Max 4wd with 5.7
TOYOTA 9" IFS REVERSE 4.88 R&P, 07+ TUNDRA,LC200 FRONT

Part # MKT9R-IFS - T9R MASTER KIT, 07+ TUNDRA, LC 200 9" IFS
CLAMSHELL FRONT (INCL SHIMS)

T10.5-488-NG - TUNDRA 10.5" 4.88 R&P, 07+ W/ 5.7L
MKT10.5 - Toyota Tundra 10.5" Master Kit, 07+ 5.7L Rear
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
44 views and not a thought from anyone ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks tundrakountry I really was hoping you guys who know OUR Truck well would chime in. Maybe like tundrakountry you don't have it installed but was really looking for others opinions Especially from the Nitro guys who are all over selling these Gears on our forums.
 

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I've done a lot of gear installs on various other Toyota trucks and I can tell you that the install was not done correctly.
I'd either take it back to the installer and get a refund and take your truck to another reputable gear specialist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Working out the logistics now. What a waste of time. This will be the third time without transportation and they haven't supplied me rental etc just doesn't look good spending all this time away from work trying to get resolved. NOT sure I am going to let them do any more work.
 

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The backlash of the gear set is incorrect. The gears are either meshing too deeply or not deep enough. Most of these gearsets come with a crush spacer and there is a very specific procedure to correctly set the gears to the proper backlash.
The old school way to check this is to use some machinist's dykem (blue layout fluid) and paint the ring gear with it. Softly apply the brake and let the pinion gear (the little one) turn the ring gear one complete revolution. The blue will be worn off the ring gear where the pinion turns against it. You can see where the gears are meshing-too far in or too far out. This takes somebody with experience to do even tho it isn't difficult.
I would tell the shop the backlash is incorrect and have them get a new set with a new crush washer. There will always be some slight noise from gears meshing at those speeds but nothing like in your excellent video. Your gears sound like they have been run several thousand miles with little or no oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well thanks a lot I would totally agree with that analysis.there is something obviously not right and I've been saying it from the get go but I obviously can't get my point across to the shop. that's going to change on Monday morning. I haven't even shown you the video of how I originally received the truck. The front left CV boot was torn no one said anything I had to notice it. They broke Off a zerk connector and two of bolts on the back differential could be loosend by hand

Heres the video for that
http://youtu.be/Dwg749up1-q
 

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My gears and Auburn Pro installed pretty much the same time as yours and i did not hear any noise. Your gear sounds like my S/C at 3000RPM. I would take a day off from work, take my truck in and stay there to watch them suckers working on fixing it. You will know right away if they know what they were doing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ya your probably right but I'm sure most shops would tell you for insurance purposes you couldn't. I will be speaking with the shop first part of the week. The front actually sounds worse. I have locked all my 4x4 on asphalt in a straight line (I don't normally drive like this) absolutely no noise I will make a video of this next. Now it sounds just nasty when you let off the gas. They told me Toyota's are notorious for transfer case noise. WELL not until they touched it. NONE of mine never made noise on my 5th Toyota over the year's
 
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Ya your probably right but I'm sure most shops would tell you for insurance purposes you couldn't. I will be speaking with the shop first part of the week. The front actually sounds worse. I have locked all my 4x4 on asphalt in a straight line (I don't normally drive like this) absolutely no noise I will make a video of this next. Now it sounds just nasty when you let off the gas. They told me Toyota's are notorious for transfer case noise. WELL not until they touched it. NONE of mine never made noise on my 5th Toyota over the year's
Mine is 2WD so i can't speaks for the 4x4 but your shop reminded me of Bilstein when i encounter a problem with my snapring came off and snapped the shock in half. They starting to point their fingers in different direction making all kind of excused to blame someone else for their mistake. Honestly i would take the truck to another reputable shop and i have them do the work and have the other shop reimburse you for it. Make sure you keep all the documentation from the old shop just in case you have to take them to court.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine is 2WD so i can't speaks for the 4x4 but your shop reminded me of Bilstein when i encounter a problem with my snapring came off and snapped the shock in half. They starting to point their fingers in different direction making all kind of excused to blame someone else for their mistake. Honestly i would take the truck to another reputable shop and i have them do the work and have the other shop reimburse you for it. Make sure you keep all the documentation from the old shop just in case you have to take them to court.
Steve I followed your entire build when I was still on the fences about doing a lift! :) And I remember the 5100 issues. Funny how easy it is to promote a product before the sale vs the support after. I will more than likely follow this line of thought and have another shop do the work. Dan Allen is hitting right on it in my opinion, My big concern is whomever does the work will they make the right call in replacing everything that should be if there has been damage to my brand new fn kit. I don't want to come back again to this issue. :(
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The backlash of the gear set is incorrect. The gears are either meshing too deeply or not deep enough. Most of these gearsets come with a crush spacer and there is a very specific procedure to correctly set the gears to the proper backlash.
The old school way to check this is to use some machinist's dykem (blue layout fluid) and paint the ring gear with it. Softly apply the brake and let the pinion gear (the little one) turn the ring gear one complete revolution. The blue will be worn off the ring gear where the pinion turns against it. You can see where the gears are meshing-too far in or too far out. This takes somebody with experience to do even tho it isn't difficult.
I would tell the shop the backlash is incorrect and have them get a new set with a new crush washer. There will always be some slight noise from gears meshing at those speeds but nothing like in your excellent video. Your gears sound like they have been run several thousand miles with little or no oil.

This video helped me to see what your talking about. Dan when you say new set you mean new entire kit gears and bearings ?
 
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Sorry it took us a few days to get over here and check out the video. I can tell you that the noise is not normal. It would be great to see the diff opened up and check the pattern and the wear on the gears, plus if there is anything floating in the bottom of the diff.

If you want, our tech guys can give you a little more info on what is wrong when you have the diff open, but you will need a new crush sleeve and possibly new bearings depending on if anything was damaged when they put it in. If you want someone to get a hold of you let me know.
 

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Steve I followed your entire build when I was still on the fences about doing a lift! :) And I remember the 5100 issues. Funny how easy it is to promote a product before the sale vs the support after. I will more than likely follow this line of thought and have another shop do the work. Dan Allen is hitting right on it in my opinion, My big concern is whomever does the work will they make the right call in replacing everything that should be if there has been damage to my brand new fn kit. I don't want to come back again to this issue. :(
You need to tell them if there is any sign of abnormal wear for X # of miles you put on since the gears installed they need to replace them.

Sorry it took us a few days to get over here and check out the video. I can tell you that the noise is not normal. It would be great to see the diff opened up and check the pattern and the wear on the gears, plus if there is anything floating in the bottom of the diff.

If you want, our tech guys can give you a little more info on what is wrong when you have the diff open, but you will need a new crush sleeve and possibly new bearings depending on if anything was damaged when they put it in. If you want someone to get a hold of you let me know.
I know Just Diffs also offer the installation at their company and send it out but you may have to either put down a deposit or send your diffs in and they will install it for ya. If this is not your daily driving truck i would go that route.
 
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Just throwing this out here, but I heard your suppose to go easy on them for 300 or so miles, not blaming you as it sounds like the shop you had it installed effed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry it took us a few days to get over here and check out the video. I can tell you that the noise is not normal. It would be great to see the diff opened up and check the pattern and the wear on the gears, plus if there is anything floating in the bottom of the diff.

If you want, our tech guys can give you a little more info on what is wrong when you have the diff open, but you will need a new crush sleeve and possibly new bearings depending on if anything was damaged when they put it in. If you want someone to get a hold of you let me know.
Thanks Just diffs and others who have posted. I will follow back with the results. Certainly open to more feedback from other experts. I really just want the truck back the way it should be. I could feel it once I got in it but without the video really couldn't prove what I knew in my bones. Actually the front is more Fd up than the back will let you know the results on that as well. When you have been driving as long as I have, I know my vehicles and you if your in tune enough with your vehicle you can feel abnormal vibrations etc. Thank God for technology Google and the forums like these on the web. Being informed keeps the playing field much more fair for us consumers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just throwing this out here, but I heard your suppose to go easy on them for 300 or so miles, not blaming you as it sounds like the shop you had it installed effed up.
Ya actually 500 miles is what I did and kept asking about the sounds I was hearing throughout the process. Told them I was going on a Trip up North about 187 miles from my house and was told you will be fine. But your right supposed to go easy on them initially.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You need to tell them if there is any sign of abnormal wear for X # of miles you put on since the gears installed they need to replace them.



I know Just Diffs also offer the installation at their company and send it out but you may have to either put down a deposit or send your diffs in and they will install it for ya. If this is not your daily driving truck i would go that route.
Just Diffs I didn't think you had any installers out in Arizona (phoenix Metro area) although you recommended (Zuk -Ken) Ken really knows his stuff Toyota Gear Installs. I have had correspondence with him and is who I will try to have straighten this out. My concern is should I allow my original shop to uninstall it take to Ken and then reinstall? I guess I am asking is it that hard or is their any challenges with removal and install that requires expertise comparable to the actual setting of the new gears? Ken only sets gears he doesn't remove them and I'm really not sure I could pull it off in my garage. Really not interested in removing it myself as I have never performed this before.
 

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Forget all the issues, I'm absolutely amazed at the video. There is no disputing video evidence!

All jokes aside, I hope it gets fixed for you. I am not sure if I would have the installing shop do the removal because in my opinion. I would just have the other shop do it all and send the bill.

Just my 2 cents
 
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