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Good morning! I recently purchased a 2017 Tundra CM in magnetic grey. Of course it doesn't fit in the garage so unfortunately she'll be sitting outside in the desert sun all day. I haven't waxed a car in about 15 years. Whats good? Whats bad? How do you apply and remove? Thanks for the advice
 

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You’ll want a DA polisher for a truck this size. Makes the process a lot easier on the arms. I wipe off the wax/polish by hand with soft microfiber cloths though.

I live in Houston, which is obviously different from the desert, but Collinite Insulator Wax #845 lasts a long time for me. I wax once or twice a year and always have water beading.

In addition to that I will polish the truck once a year before I use the Collinite with Meguiar’s Ultimate Polish. That stuff works well in getting fine swirls out of the clear coat.

As long as you put forth some effort in maintaining the paint it’ll look great for a long time.


2011 Tundra DC 4.6L V8 2WD 137k miles

 

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I have been converted to polymer sealants like Zaino for protection of special vehicles I plan to keep a long time. The first application is a little more complicated compared to polishing and waxing, but the protection and shine can be maintained with little additional effort. Nothing, IMO, will really prevent damage to modern paint from bird droppings, so hopefully, you won't have to park under trees.
 

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I've been using Collinite 476 Super Doublecoat for the past few years and it works fantastic. It is their longest lasting wax. This next round, I'm switching to the Collinite Marque D'Elegance #915 since we have a black Tundra and the 915 is supposed to be a bit better for dark colors.

Les_Paul gave good advice on the DA polisher. Get a decent one.

The differences are listed in their FAQ section:

What’s the difference between the auto waxes; No. 845 Insulator Wax, No. 476s Super Double Coat and the No. 915 Marque D’ Elegance?

All 3 last step waxes serve the same function: to provide a high gloss carnauba shine and lasting protection. All 3 contain copious amounts of wax-both rare Brazilian carnauba and premium synthetic polymers. However, their degree of durability, ease of use, and warmth of shine vary. Think of it this way;

1. No.476s – most durable protection/weather defense. Most elbow grease required during application.

2. No. 915- 2nd most durable and slightly easier than the 476s to apply/remove. No. 915 lends our warmest shine to dark tones like navy and black due to its highest concentration of rare carnauba.

3. No. 845- easiest of the 3 to apply/remove with slightly less durability than the No. 915.
 

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Wax is 1985. You want a good synthetic product.

Follow around @Jumbo Jet the guy is a detailing genius.

Here's one with steps taken on a neglected finish. You could follow this but skip the correction steps. You'll find a bunch of his threads very helpful.
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/show-shine/637786-quick-wash-turned-into-major-paint-correction.html

This is a great DA polisher that will last forever.
https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/griots+garage+random+orbital.do

These guys have great product.
https://www.chemicalguys.com/
 

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He is a genius.

Detailing can be as expensive as you want it to be. Although that stuff is very nice, at least in my case, I don't see the point. I'll be waxing a couple of times per year and a can of Collinite that lasts a very long time, costs substantially less than the synthetics that, around here, will have to be redone every one to two years. All that does, is protect from the elements. My wife drives a MDX and the hood looks like it's been shot with a automatic bb gun. No synthetic or wax will protect from the rocks and debris tossed around in the metromess by construction vehicles and commuter traffic.

I've not tried it yet; however, after reading the reviews, I picked up a HF DA polisher, replaced the backing plate, bought some good pads, flipped the switch, and regreased the gearbox (that seems to be the necessary mod's from what I've read). For a DA polisher that will only be used a couple of times per year, that's as much as I was willing to spend. Most of the reviews seem to be good so I'm going to hope for the best; otherwise, I'll just hand wax and screw polishing.

--Matt
 

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Waxing is allot of work .

I use Chemical Guys products . Good stuff and I use thier Finnish was that's specifically for White paint .
Twice a year application , with a few Lucas quick spray " wax" in between.
 

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Collinite 845 is the best option here. I apply mine by hand with a foam applicator, then remove with a clean microfiber. Its not too bad. If you're really feeling like you want to add some protection, put a layer of Jescar Powerlock underneath. Apply with the same steps, but then let it cure for 3 hours (I usually wait overnight) then put a layer of Collonite 845 on top. Should last 6-8 months.

Edit: Also, I apply some spray wax after each wash just as a sacrificial layer for a couple days. Meguiars D156 is cheap and easy to use. Optimum Car Wax is a spray wax that works well also.
 

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Collinite 845 is the best option here. I apply mine by hand with a foam applicator, then remove with a clean microfiber. Its not too bad. If you're really feeling like you want to add some protection, put a layer of Jescar Powerlock underneath. Apply with the same steps, but then let it cure for 3 hours (I usually wait overnight) then put a layer of Collonite 845 on top. Should last 6-8 months.

Edit: Also, I apply some spray wax after each wash just as a sacrificial layer for a couple days. Meguiars D156 is cheap and easy to use. Optimum Car Wax is a spray wax that works well also.
The Lucas or Meguires spray "wax" detailers are cheap enough and work real well as lube for claybar ing .
My son uses this method on his older truck .
My truck is new , and that's why I only have to use chemical guys , Finnish wax for white paint . No oxidation and no swirl scratches so far , and it's kinda nice .
 

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The Lucas or Meguires spray "wax" detailers are cheap enough and work real well as lube for claybar ing .
My son uses this method on his older truck .
My truck is new , and that's why I only have to use chemical guys , Finnish wax for white paint . No oxidation and no swirl scratches so far , and it's kinda nice .
Yeah I just use the spray wax as a drying aid to add some lubrication while drying mostly. Powerlock and Collinite are the real protection on my pickup. I try to avoid Chemical Guys, too many horror stories and enough very good alternatives to not even think twice.
 

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Yeah I just use the spray wax as a drying aid to add some lubrication while drying mostly. Powerlock and Collinite are the real protection on my pickup. I try to avoid Chemical Guys, too many horror stories and enough very good alternatives to not even think twice.
What kind of horror , product or service ?

Thank you
 

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What kind of horror , product or service ?

Thank you
Mostly service. But also not convinced on their products either. But, if it works for you, then that is all that matters.

I've had really good luck with Adams products. Great service with them also. But for protection, I use Powerlock and Collinite 845. Its a rock solid combo for summer and winter. Usually do an application 2x a year.
 

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Jescar Power Lock Plus Polymer Sealant followed by Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 twice a year, when you detail your truck.

Maintenance wash however often you'd like with ONR waterless wash using the Garry Dean method, and use Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax as an easy maintenance wax and drying aid.
 

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Mostly service. But also not convinced on their products either. But, if it works for you, then that is all that matters.

I've had really good luck with Adams products. Great service with them also. But for protection, I use Powerlock and Collinite 845. Its a rock solid combo for summer and winter. Usually do an application 2x a year.

OK
Well i washed my rig last night , and wasn't impressed with the Chemical guys White Finnish waxing i did 4 weeks ago .
Dont get me wrong the white is still clean and deep white , but the water didnt bead much and it didnt feel slippery when washing . Perhaps i should have topped it off with some other of their products , BUT im not really into that ... one waxing is enough work for this ole boy.
Not saying Chemical Guys products are bad , just i expected more for my effort. Paint still clean but not slippy enough for me.

Soooo i very well may give this Collinite 845 product you speak of a try . Thank you , 24hrsparkey
 

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Anyone ever use this product?

https://topcoat.store/

BIL told me about it. Been using Zaino for years ......

Lots of good products so it makes choosing pretty interesting.....

well just found this look for review by armin:
TopCoat F11 Review - Page 2 - Chevy SS Forum
I have the Topcoat F11 product. Use it mainly on my motorcycle. Used it once on the tundra.

I have only used about 3 oz's of the stuff and will buy again when I run out.

If you already have some wax build up, it might take several applications for the top coat to penetrate well.

Creates a good shine and allows water to run right off. There might be other products like it, since it is fairly expensive.
I also have several Chemical Guys products as well.
 

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OK
Well i washed my rig last night , and wasn't impressed with the Chemical guys White Finnish waxing i did 4 weeks ago .
Dont get me wrong the white is still clean and deep white , but the water didnt bead much and it didnt feel slippery when washing . Perhaps i should have topped it off with some other of their products , BUT im not really into that ... one waxing is enough work for this ole boy.
Not saying Chemical Guys products are bad , just i expected more for my effort. Paint still clean but not slippy enough for me.

Soooo i very well may give this Collinite 845 product you speak of a try . Thank you , 24hrsparkey
You won't be disappointed with Collinite 845. I'm a huge fan of the Jescar Powerlock as well. Great sealant.

If it didn't feel slippery, it might be your soap. What are you using for that?
 

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The Collinite 476s and 915 are both more durable than the 845. I can vouch for the 476s as I've used it for several years now. I've just started using the 915 so I can just go off of what I've read on durability for now. I've not played with 845 but it seems like a better choice if you're putting a sealant under it rather than a stand alone product (if you're looking for the longest lifespan).

The 845 is supposed to be the easiest to apply; although, I've not found 476s or the 915 difficult.

--Matt
 
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