[Coachbuilder1]

If you haven't already run a tank of seafoam through your truck, this will not only clean the injectors but clean the carbon in the heads. The cats work after the exhaust temp reaches 700-750 degrees. After you've run the seafoam out fill up with 15 gallons of 91 or higher octane and 3 oz. of acetone. If your truck runs good You will pass... the acetone is the key. It allows the fuel to burn much more efficiently and reduces hydrocarbons to extremely low levels. You'll also enjoy about 40 more miles in that tank Please update.

 

[Coachbuilder1]

Coachbuilder1, I bet that would be the thing to do, I watched some footage of seafoam being manually poured.. I honestly wish I was confident enough to try that method.. Have you ever seen 44k products? Also, check this out Fuel Injection Services | Fuel Injector Maintenance | Fuel Injector Cleaning | RepairTrust.comFuel Injection Services | Fuel Injector Maintenance | Fuel Injector Cleaning | RepairTrust.com

Its always a good idea with the amount of miles you have to treat the fuel first. This way it doesn't remove the carbon too fast and clog the cats. After the fuel system is clean treat it with acetone. The amount is critical. 15 gal of fuel to 3 oz of acetone. acetone can be bought at any hardware store (home depot or auto zone) pour the acetone into the tank and then fill with 15 gals of fuel. The acetone allows the fuel to burn much more efficiently, you'll also notice a quicker start when cold. I have a few cars that don't like anything about being green

 

[Coachbuilder1]

How often you using 15 gallon high octane to 3 oz acetone? What intervals ,every time from here on out? What about that stabil gasoline treatment? I have that in my garage.. only use it for my lawn small engines and fuel mixes .. does the acetone do something different than a fuel stabilizer? thanks again, John

I posted lastnight and got the data base error code

I'll give it another try...

Stabil is great for fuel that sits for long periods of time and when the exhaust and or intake are vulnerable to moisture. The fuel inside the tank can take on moisture much like brake fluid. Acetone isn't a treatment it helps the fuel atomize easy during combustion. I've used acetone in both carb and EFI engines for along time. (easily 10 years) After the Seafoam runs through the tank it cleans the plugs / valves / heads / injectors / and cat gradually. With 150K this is always the safest bet, sucking it into the intake will clean the carbon but also take the chance at plugging the cats. After the fuel system is clean its easy to keep it that way with treatment or acetone. The ratio is extremely important... 640 parts of fuel to 1 part of acetone. Allot of people are scared to death to use anything that eats paint, softens plastics and dissolves rubber. "But when used in this ratio the property's aren't the same" more is not better

I don't use acetone in the tundra very often, maybe every 3 months or on longer drives. I do however use it regularly in my DD and wifes SUV. it usually takes one tank for the ECU to adjust or you can disconnect the terminal and reset it. I store it in a small steel can and use a old lucas fuel treatment bottle to measure and pour. I notice anywhere from 50-70 miles greater per tank with a 13 gal fill up. Back when you could retard the timing and clean up I/M during a smog test are long gone. I also use it with a few cars that want nothing to do with being green

 

[Coachbuilder1]

the Acetone "trick" is completely BOGUS! this myth has been around for years and people still believe it. Schemes like this one, and the "vortex" intake fan blades, and fuel line magnets are complete BS. if it were true, gas station "X" would put it in their fuels and market their magic gas that improves mpgs by 25%. I understand the appeal of quick cheap fixes, but if ford or toyota could boost their mpg's by putting fan blades in their intake tubes, they'd own the market.

When you have a second to spare.... visit any Auto Zone, Napa, Advanced Auto ect and read the ingredients in just about any fuel treatment on the shelf. When you read (CH3)2 CO as the main ingredient it will make more sense. A friend of mine who owns a Safety/IM shop recommended I use acetone (CH3)2 CO in the fuel of my car that would not pass the sniffer test. Ran a tank through is and tested again. Not only did it pass it was burning cleaner than most newer cars. The car was a Porsche 930 Slantnose inline 6 3.0L with 6 carburetors. ( no 02 sensors no cats ) This was back in 2001 and I've used it every since. If I didn't have real world experience in this I would not recommend it