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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2007 Crew-Cab Limited (126,000 miles) wouldn't start. A trusted local mechanic shop spent a full day, came up with nothing and recommended taking it to the dealer. It started OK for several weeks and then wouldn't start again. Towed it to the dealer, they said the battery and battery cables needed replacing. I approved, they did the work, and everything worked great for a month. It wouldn't start again, I tried unsuccessfully to jump it off, towed it to the dealer again and this time they told me it was the starter (OUCH $!!). The mechanic goes to the same gym that I do and told me that it was the age of the truck and a semi-coincidence that the two problems happened within 30 days of each other. The first time I was getting several clicks and then silence, the second time I got a single click and then silence. I asked him what would be next and he eventually said the AC evaporator core and the radiator. I love my Tundra and really want to get another 2.5 - 3 years out of it @ 8-10,000 miles per year without spending thousands of additional dollars. I would greatly appreciate your opinions and recommendations. I was planning to get the new body style the second year that it was out which I think would put me at 2024...what do you think?
 

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Keep grinding with a different mechanic.It's the only way you could put up with the truck for another 4 years. The guy who told you he'd mess with the AC and radiator on a truck that's not starting can't be a certified mechanic. Just be nice to him at the gym: smile, wipe down your machine, and go hit the sauna til he's gone... Based on what you've already paid to have done, I'd be looking at the grounds - but I'm not a certified mechanic.
OR
It's relatively low miles for it's age. Get it running then trade it in. It will never be more valuable than it is now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Keep grinding with a different mechanic.It's the only way you could put up with the truck for another 4 years. The guy who told you he'd mess with the AC and radiator on a truck that's not starting can't be a certified mechanic. Just be nice to him at the gym: smile, wipe down your machine, and go hit the sauna til he's gone... Based on what you've already paid to have done, I'd be looking at the grounds - but I'm not a certified mechanic.
OR
It's relatively low miles for it's age. Get it running then trade it in. It will never be more valuable than it is now.
Thank you for the response. The AC and radiator came up when I pressed him for what major repairs are most likely to pop up during the next 4 years, not related to the starting problem that, at least for now, has been resolved. Interestingly enough, he didn't think the alternator would be an issue. I do need to do the front brakes though. I think it will make it and I'll continue to add 8-10K miles per year. Thanks again!
 

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I really agree. These are relatively minor issues considering the age of the truck. And some things like this are going to happen. If the AC goes out, take it to a non-dealer AC shop and get it fixed. There is nothing special about a Toyota system that they can't fix. Same with the radiator. Just drive it and enjoy while you save up some cash for that 2024!
 

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My 2007 Crew-Cab Limited (126,000 miles) wouldn't start. A trusted local mechanic shop spent a full day, came up with nothing and recommended taking it to the dealer. It started OK for several weeks and then wouldn't start again. Towed it to the dealer, they said the battery and battery cables needed replacing. I approved, they did the work, and everything worked great for a month. It wouldn't start again, I tried unsuccessfully to jump it off, towed it to the dealer again and this time they told me it was the starter (OUCH $!!). The mechanic goes to the same gym that I do and told me that it was the age of the truck and a semi-coincidence that the two problems happened within 30 days of each other. The first time I was getting several clicks and then silence, the second time I got a single click and then silence. I asked him what would be next and he eventually said the AC evaporator core and the radiator. I love my Tundra and really want to get another 2.5 - 3 years out of it @ 8-10,000 miles per year without spending thousands of additional dollars. I would greatly appreciate your opinions and recommendations. I was planning to get the new body style the second year that it was out which I think would put me at 2024...what do you think?
My 2007 did the same thing you described. Dealer charged me $324 to diagnose. They replaced the battery first. Final decision was that it was the starter and quoted $1,800 to replace it. I chose to trade it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for confirming my suspicions. The starter was $1,200 installed and I'm trusting that I can drive it another 3 years for <$1,000 a year. I really do like the truck!
 

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My 2007 Crew-Cab Limited (126,000 miles) wouldn't start. A trusted local mechanic shop spent a full day, came up with nothing and recommended taking it to the dealer. It started OK for several weeks and then wouldn't start again. Towed it to the dealer, they said the battery and battery cables needed replacing. I approved, they did the work, and everything worked great for a month. It wouldn't start again, I tried unsuccessfully to jump it off, towed it to the dealer again and this time they told me it was the starter (OUCH $!!). The mechanic goes to the same gym that I do and told me that it was the age of the truck and a semi-coincidence that the two problems happened within 30 days of each other. The first time I was getting several clicks and then silence, the second time I got a single click and then silence. I asked him what would be next and he eventually said the AC evaporator core and the radiator. I love my Tundra and really want to get another 2.5 - 3 years out of it @ 8-10,000 miles per year without spending thousands of additional dollars. I would greatly appreciate your opinions and recommendations. I was planning to get the new body style the second year that it was out which I think would put me at 2024...what do you think?
That seems crazy that you would be needing a radiator and AC evaporator core at that many miles I just purchased a 2017 TRD PRO 35,000 miles love the truck but I thought these things went forever. My old truck is a 2002 dodge Dakota that I purchased new it now has over 251,000 miles and still run great original radiator and AC and starter just rusty as shit but still go great
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We will see. We put 200K on a '94 4-Runner with minimal issues. Fortunately, now I fly more than drive for work so 8-10K a year is my average. I'm feel confident that I can get 4 more years out of my '07, then move into that new 2024!
 

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I’ll bet it has something to do with the transmission/park switch. It comes and goes but hard to pinpoint. Battery, cables grounds you could spend the rest of your life trying to figure it out and replacing everything under the sun and a lot of shops will replace parts until you say stop or you go broke.
But think about your issues, truck runs great than all of a sudden it just doesn’t start. A battery will give you a warning if it starts to die if you are paying attention, so will a starter just like other (mechanical issues).
There is a switch that is connected to your trans or the shifter itself set up so you cannot start truck unless it’s in park or neutral and if that switch has moved it may only work intermittently??
 

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Thank you for confirming my suspicions. The starter was $1,200 installed and I'm trusting that I can drive it another 3 years for <$1,000 a year. I really do like the truck!
What?!!! $1200 for a starter, the guy above said they quoted him $1800!!!

A Duralast Gold with a lifetime warrantyis only $145 ( after core trade in) AT AUTOZONE. It is a couple of hours to install yourself or pay a non dealer mechanic but DANG!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I’ll bet it has something to do with the transmission/park switch. It comes and goes but hard to pinpoint. Battery, cables grounds you could spend the rest of your life trying to figure it out and replacing everything under the sun and a lot of shops will replace parts until you say stop or you go broke.
But think about your issues, truck runs great than all of a sudden it just doesn’t start. A battery will give you a warning if it starts to die if you are paying attention, so will a starter just like other (mechanical issues).
There is a switch that is connected to your trans or the shifter itself set up so you cannot start truck unless it’s in park or neutral and if that switch has moved it may only work intermittently??
I'll move that to the top of the list the next time it acts up...which hopefully is a long time...thank you for the information!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What?!!! $1200 for a starter, the guy above said they quoted him $1800!!!

A Duralast Gold with a lifetime warrantyis only $145 ( after core trade in) AT AUTOZONE. It is a couple of hours to install yourself or pay a non dealer mechanic but DANG!!!
When I researched it on the web it looked like you have to drop the exhaust manifold and some other strange stuff to get to it. There was talk of specialty tools and a strong recommendation that it be up on a rack. I'm probably not the best DIY mechanic anyway. I tried to swap the power door lock activator on the driver's door and ended up having to take it to the dealer after the door wouldn't unlock. Plus, no rack access and my tools are lacking for auto work. Woodworking I'm great, auto mechanic not so much.
 

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That does seem awful high for a starter. Usually, they are just two bolts and you have it on, but.....I have not done a Tundra.

When it comes to DIY auto mechanics, remember, there is nothing you can't take off, screw up, take apart, or destroy that you can't pay someone to put back together.

So far, I have never had to pay someone to put it back together. And if you need to buy tools, buy em. It will still be cheaper and then you have the tool for next time. Youtube is a great source for how to videos.
 

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That seems crazy that you would be needing a radiator and AC evaporator core at that many miles I just purchased a 2017 TRD PRO 35,000 miles love the truck but I thought these things went forever. My old truck is a 2002 dodge Dakota that I purchased new it now has over 251,000 miles and still run great original radiator and AC and starter just rusty as shit but still go great
Needing a radiator is more about how often you change the radiator fluid. It comes with anti corrosion inhibitors that lose their function over time and if you run radiator fluid too long, it becomes corrosive and you get a radiator leak. Change your fluid on time and they will last a long long time. And if you are overdue for a change, and the radiator is not leaking, get it changed and you will extend the life of the system.

AC evap core, you can't predict that failure. Maybe he knows they tend to fail at some point, but I have not heard of toyota having any issues with long term AC system problems. Just run it until if fails. There is no PM you can do to prevent this and I don't know of anyway to predict when it is going to fail. When it won't blow cold, that is the time to look at it.

As for the starter, that is more a function of how many times you start it. An 07 with a 126K on it may have been started more times than an 07 with a million miles on it. So you really can't measure this by miles. Age and number of starts is what kills a starter.

Also, a battery can act like a starter failure. Batteries can have the plates break inside and short out and it can be intermittent and it can be sudden. I have had them work fine and all of a sudden, click, and nothing. Jump start it and it works for a few weeks, then click again. Have it tested and it checks fine, then a couple weeks later, click, nothing. Cables and starters usually work or then don't. When I get a click only, I usually replace the battery (assuming I didn't leave something on and drain it down) and that usually fixes the issue. It is rare for a fairly new battery to have that problem, but it can happen.

Last, new gel batteries usually don't short out. The plates are supported by the gel and don't usually break off as easy. If you do a lot of off roading or drive rough roads, a gel battery is a better choice. They are expensive, but they do last longer.
 

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When I researched it on the web it looked like you have to drop the exhaust manifold and some other strange stuff to get to it. There was talk of specialty tools and a strong recommendation that it be up on a rack. I'm probably not the best DIY mechanic anyway. I tried to swap the power door lock activator on the driver's door and ended up having to take it to the dealer after the door wouldn't unlock. Plus, no rack access and my tools are lacking for auto work. Woodworking I'm great, auto mechanic not so much.
It is definately more difficult than the average starter so I would not try it if i had never worked on cars and didn't have decent tools. But you can find somebody for at least a third of $1000 labor
 

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Forgot changed starter @ 125,000 auto zone lifetime starter
I've owned several tundras. Had to put a starter in every one with the 5.7 at approximately 150,000 miles give or take
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That does seem awful high for a starter. Usually, they are just two bolts and you have it on, but.....I have not done a Tundra.

When it comes to DIY auto mechanics, remember, there is nothing you can't take off, screw up, take apart, or destroy that you can't pay someone to put back together.

So far, I have never had to pay someone to put it back together. And if you need to buy tools, buy em. It will still be cheaper and then you have the tool for next time. Youtube is a great source for how to videos.
Thank you for the advice!
 
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