Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I don't have any experience with Tundras and was wondering if this is fairly normal metal from the rear differential. Truck is an 08 with 122,000 miles. Don't know if the fluid was ever changed and I don't hear any abnormal noise from the rear. There was alot of fines that would be considered normal for fluid and magnet that have never been changed and cleaned. Wheel bearing on drivers side was just replaced for making noise. Should I be concerned? Thank you in advance for any advice and comments.

Chris


Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
The long bits seem a bit much but the fine buildup does not. If it hadn't been changed at all it would have been black. If its got 122K miles it would have broken already if there was an issue. It might not be the gears at all, maybe excess from the clamshell or any other metal part. Once I found a coil in a diff that was from a tapped hole on my kubota tractor straight from the factory. Change it again in 5K miles and see how it looks, go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Ned, I will do that. I've done many differential services and have never run across this. The fluid was quite dark, like a medium roast coffee. The crush washer on the drain plug was quite corroded and the crush washer for the fill was missing completely. Makes me think that if it was changed that someone used a mitivac to remove the fluid and then refill thus not cleaning the magnet. I'll be getting the front diff and transfer case next and have all the materials for the transmission and filter.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Chris,
That is too much metal regardless of the type of gear case/train it came out of. I am by trade a maintenance machinist and familiar with just about every type of geared power train from gear head engine lathes to Combustion turbine starting and drive line systems. At the very most, there possibly might be very few, microscopic fines collected on the magnet at any time in the life of the drive. Any more and there is a definite problem with improper lubricant, lubrication system, bearing type/quality, gear alignments, clearances, materials, design, or machining to materials heat treatment. Seeing your collection of captured metal, I recommend you have a qualified and well experienced automotive gear case technician open the gear case up and perform a complete materials, machining, component alignments and NDE examination and a complete ground-up rebuild/set-up. This is something a shade-tree mechanic, even a very good one, is unlikely to have the knowledge or tooling on hand to properly perform. Alternatively, you might consider haunting some bone yards for a complete replacement the comes up clean with a very cursory visual inspection of the lube and internals. Might be cheaper but not nearly as good in the long run as having one built right by the right tech.
Good luck Chris.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Chris,
That is too much metal regardless of the type of gear case/train it came out of. I am by trade a maintenance machinist and familiar with just about every type of geared power train from gear head engine lathes to Combustion turbine starting and drive line systems. At the very most, there possibly might be very few, microscopic fines collected on the magnet at any time in the life of the drive. Any more and there is a definite problem with improper lubricant, lubrication system, bearing type/quality, gear alignments, clearances, materials, design, or machining to materials heat treatment. Seeing your collection of captured metal, I recommend you have a qualified and well experienced automotive gear case technician open the gear case up and perform a complete materials, machining, component alignments and NDE examination and a complete ground-up rebuild/set-up. This is something a shade-tree mechanic, even a very good one, is unlikely to have the knowledge or tooling on hand to properly perform. Alternatively, you might consider haunting some bone yards for a complete replacement the comes up clean with a very cursory visual inspection of the lube and internals. Might be cheaper but not nearly as good in the long run as having one built right by the right tech.
Good luck Chris.
Thank you for the info. Currently I am running it with no adverse noises or any noises for that matter. So for the time being I'm going to let it be and drain the rearend at my next oil change and have a look at it. I have since serviced the front diff which had an equal amount of metal paste but no pieces on the magnet. The trans had surprisingly little metal paste on the magnets, especially for never being serviced (but broke 9 out of the 12 bolts for the pan, not a fun day). If worse comes to worse, I will more than likely go with a recycled third member from a wrecking yard though I agree with you that a good quality rebuilder would be superior. Hoping to have dodged a bullet but will be vigilant at the same time.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just an update. I dropped the diff oil to see if there was any other pieces of metal. From what I can see, I am fairly confident that the metal was from the failed wheel bearing that has already been replaced. I appreciate the info and will keep an eye and ear on this differential.

Chris


Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I changed my rear diff fluid recently and had some metal pieces in it. I wonder if some is from the manufacturing process. This was at 40,000 miles
881955
881956
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Are you sure your pin is not broken, I did pull my diff 1 year ago with 85000 miles on it (07 model) because of faulty wheel bearings.. The truck run fine with the broken pin, and no sounds to tell that it was broken. But when I drained the oil I got worried that something was up. What I can tell you is that the previous owner had changed the pin before, I bought the truck at 40000 miles. He never told me, but there was signs that It had not been done at factory. Did redo my diff and put in an Auburn lsd, I had droven it so long that all the planet gears was complete worn out. I can not understand that there where no sounds from this diff at all. I did rebuild it myself, but used a lot of time and money on the right tools for the job. Hope it was just the wheel bearing, but I would have taken a closer look at the diff, those large pieces should have been stopped at the splash shield.
IMG_20190607_144327.jpg IMG_20190215_152143.jpg IMG_20190215_145836.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Mine had almost that much at 20k miles when I dropped the diff oil. Changed it, and when I hit 55k I dropped it again, everything was clean. I suppose if the magnet prevented the detrius from being ground into the gears or bearings it's fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
I am about ready to change my Diff Fluids and Transfer case oils @ 43k . I WAS going to do it at 60k , before viewing this ...

Could someone tell me what type , and quantity please ?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Your owners manual will say. Don't know the year of yours but generally (with the exception of the newer Tundras for the transfer cases) 75w-90 synthetic will cover your driveling and WS fluid (not universal or compatible with WS) for the transmission. You'll need some knowledge before you tackle the transmission. Study up and you can get it done yourself. The driveling is simple drain and fill. Always crack open the fill plug first so you know you can refill it. The front diff is especially tight. Make sure to change the sealing washers on all the plugs and your in business.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
Not doing the transmission.
Truck is a 2018

From what i can get on the web's


Front / Rear Differentials = 2.3 quarts each Castrol Syntrax 75-90w
Transfer case = 1.2 Quarts of same OR the Ravenol J1C1003 Sae 75w MTF OR the Toyota Spec oil at $50 a quart .

which to use on the 2018 transfer case ,, not sure .... seems model year specific 2015 plus years toyota swithhed to the Borg Warner T case .
Actually Red Line , Amsoil , or Castrol do not have a recommended T case oil for 2015 and up. The Ravenol isnt even the same exact spec package as Toyota oil.
That being said , dealerships use plain old 75-90w diff oil in the transfer cases UNLESS doing warrante work , then they use Mother Toyota oil.

arrrg. Thank you Borg Warner ................

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
Important Correction ::: the rear diff takes 4.3 quarts . And Very very important to level the differential ( not the truck ) so you get proper drain of the axel tubes.
My 2018 oem rear diff fluid at 45k was pretty normal , dark brown with a tad of silver , no chunks and some paste on the mag drain plug. Kinda happy about that .
KEEP IN MIND the rear gearing is like 5.13 ish . This gearing Really turns a lot so because it's so steep I recommend more frequent oil changing than , say 3.55 , 3.73 that is typical on older pick ups .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
Doing the front now .
Fluid was near new looking , with paste on the drain plug mag.
I know the front diff turns all the time ,, but there's not much work going on so this oem fluid looks good . . About what i expected .
Edit : upon pouring the oem front diff fluid out into the waste oil drum , it was light brown in color , not new looking .

Good to have the cheap pump that goes onto the lube bottles for this one because of access ,,, good luck without one . Lol .
Also good to have the assortment of sealing washers that's avalible on Amazon $8.
Important to level the Truck for filling , since the front diff is hard mounted to the truck vs the rear is sprung .
Even though I am doing this in the driveway , so far pretty easy .

Transfer case next ,, soon as the 75w Ravenol oil shows up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
Changed out the transfer case oil , although it was 98% new looking at 45k .

All this info tells me ( for the way i use my truck , your usage may vary ) : Change the rear diff fluid often , the front diff and T case maybe again at 100k.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top