I just bought A 2007 Tundra and I am looking to upgrade the stereo. I know that I want to put and in dash navigation but just do not know which one to get. I am also looking to change out all the speakers as well as add subs. What does everyone recommend. I am not looking to spend a fortune and will probably do everything in stages starting with the unit first. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Looking for new stereo system
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The advent is sweet, installs and looks factory. Look up the thread I made about my install. Only thing I think I read is that the center dash on the 07s are black when the 08s and up are gray flake. And thats the only color they make for the advent trim.
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What is your budget and listening preferences? What do you expect? Do you want to blurr your vision or just be a little better than stock? The difference between wanting to spend $1000 and $2000 is huge and some may say $1000 is a fortune and some may say $5000 is a good amount. It depends on what you expect and what you want to spend.
I have the kenwood 9990HD- I used to have a double din pioneer unit in my tacoma which I'd run in app mode and use various GPS apps (mostly motionX). The one thing I did not like about running that way was getting phone calls when I was 2 minutes to my destination but with 3 or 4 turns left to make (I have to run around constantly for work- so it wasn't an occasional situation). I didn't want to use the pioneer nav unit as I had heard bad things at the time (4 years ago).
This time around, got the kenwood. There are things I like and dislike about it. Nothing that has made me want to get rid of it though. My biggest complaint- the info on the screen while listening to music via iphone/pandora/internet radio/etc - very limiting. Not a huge deal- but I like looking up, seeing all the info to a song that comes up... doesn't happen with the kenwood.
I bought the kenwood for the integration with Garmin GPS... figuring, GPS is garmin's business- I want to stick with a main company, don't want a separate GPS hanging on the window or dash. The have been a few software updates with the unit that have fixed the bugs, but I've had it crash out on me a few times (had it for a year). When this happens- it looses ALL INFO on you... very annoying. It's only happened once to me after the software update, for some random reason... and hoping that was a fluke thing. It's been fine for several months now- and hopefully stays that way.
As far as the GPS- it's a typical garmin unit. I hate the dumbed down software they have these days (I had an older iQue years ago that was awesome in terms of info displayed- especially when you are driving around areas with a bunch of one way streets and trying to find ways around traffic). I generally just use my GPS though to get me in the area, and then I look at the map while I'm driving to figure out "the best way" as our area has a bunch of random side roads that may be 1/10th of a mile shorter in route, but not 45mph routes.
IMO- I loved the motionX app- and still use it occasionally- especially when just searching for things MUCH quicker- as it has a search engine interface. If you can live with using something like that (try it now if you have a smart phone) - then I'd suggest getting a head unit that has the functionality for music/video/interface that you like the best. If you are looking for a HU with GPS built in like I was, your options are very limited if you wanted a navigation based company for your GPS.
All in all- mine works for me. The interface and set up, plus Garmin GPS outweighs the little quirks I "just have to live with." I haven't thought about swapping it out after a year. I do think there is room for improvement, but there is with everything, and most of that is personal preference related.
This time around, got the kenwood. There are things I like and dislike about it. Nothing that has made me want to get rid of it though. My biggest complaint- the info on the screen while listening to music via iphone/pandora/internet radio/etc - very limiting. Not a huge deal- but I like looking up, seeing all the info to a song that comes up... doesn't happen with the kenwood.
I bought the kenwood for the integration with Garmin GPS... figuring, GPS is garmin's business- I want to stick with a main company, don't want a separate GPS hanging on the window or dash. The have been a few software updates with the unit that have fixed the bugs, but I've had it crash out on me a few times (had it for a year). When this happens- it looses ALL INFO on you... very annoying. It's only happened once to me after the software update, for some random reason... and hoping that was a fluke thing. It's been fine for several months now- and hopefully stays that way.
As far as the GPS- it's a typical garmin unit. I hate the dumbed down software they have these days (I had an older iQue years ago that was awesome in terms of info displayed- especially when you are driving around areas with a bunch of one way streets and trying to find ways around traffic). I generally just use my GPS though to get me in the area, and then I look at the map while I'm driving to figure out "the best way" as our area has a bunch of random side roads that may be 1/10th of a mile shorter in route, but not 45mph routes.
IMO- I loved the motionX app- and still use it occasionally- especially when just searching for things MUCH quicker- as it has a search engine interface. If you can live with using something like that (try it now if you have a smart phone) - then I'd suggest getting a head unit that has the functionality for music/video/interface that you like the best. If you are looking for a HU with GPS built in like I was, your options are very limited if you wanted a navigation based company for your GPS.
All in all- mine works for me. The interface and set up, plus Garmin GPS outweighs the little quirks I "just have to live with." I haven't thought about swapping it out after a year. I do think there is room for improvement, but there is with everything, and most of that is personal preference related.
Had a Pioneer double din nav stereo in last truck for a week, before selling and buying a Kenwood double dine with garmin nav. The Pioneer stereo was good, but the nav was horrible for me so I sold it right away. The kenwood garmin is so simple and accurate, and the stereo interface and quality was excellent. The kenwood bluetooth seemed to have better quality as well.
I probably do not need navi because i never really use it now. If it means to save money and get one without than I might go that route. I really want something that i can hook up two screens in the back so the kids can watch something. What is the garmin app and the app mode features that i have been seeing on some of these HU i have been looking at
Kenwood has partnered with Garmin- you have a garmin GPS unit as part of your HU. Youtube Kenwood 9990HD
It's no different than one of the portable garmin GPS's- just a part of your HU. It works well with whatever you are using the system for at the time (movies/music/phone calls/etc).
You can also get apps for your phone (smartphones). There are several free ones, subscription ones, and some one time purchase ones. I like the motion X - you can use a free version, or buy monthly or yearly versions (with voice guidance and other features). I tried a monthly version, found it to be very useful- except when receiving a call (your GPS minimizes, as you are now on the phone). Sure with my iphone I can run two apps and switch back to it, but you then lose the voice as you are on the phone. (You lose the voice on the Kenwood as well, but the map stays up on screen). It was just too much to accept the call, switch to the phone, minimize the call, open back up the GPS, and hit resume, have it find your location (as at the time I believe it paused navigation when your phone was interrupted) - all while driving in traffic and trying to navigate my last few turns before my destination in tight city areas.
I'm sure things have changed with that app, or others. You could, however, listen to whatever music you wanted FROM YOUR PHONE at the same time- even other apps such as pandora running in the background with MotionX in the front. For a rear DVD system- no problem as any head unit with that capability is set up to still run your phone (nav) up front, and DVD (from HU) in the rear. You might have issues trying to show a movie off your phone though and run nav at the same time I'd guess.
If you have a smartphone- download a free navigation app - again, MotionX GPS I've liked- Navigon is another popular one (not sure if there's a free trial/version). There are a few others - best bet- google to find the latest and greatest on them. Find one with a free trial or free version- use it to navigate around for now- even if you know where you are going... but just to get used to the interface. See if it'll fit the bill. If so- you'll save a good amount of money on the HU.
Most headunits have an APP mode- which allows you to mirror your phone screen- so this is what you'd then do when running your GPS off the phone. Put your HU in app mode, run the app you wanted, and go on your merry way.
Find a REALLY GOOD car audio shop around you- not a big box store. Go in, play with all the units, talk with them- you'll find that invaluable.
Go play with them in a store- really the only way to decide. The kenwood has many set up features that can really customize your system- one thing I love about it- i can have different settings for different inputs/modes... and it remembers them. (DVD sounds different than iphone than radio, etc).
I really like my pioneer unit I had as well a few years ago- their new app double din receiver looked sharp as well when I was checking out the kenwood. If I wasn't looking for the nav as part of my unit- I might have ended up with that one. Screen is crystal clear, very good user interface.
find a true custom mobile audio shop to go and play around - can't stress that enough.
Another question i have is. Is there anything that I can buy to go around the screen since the spot is so big and i know the screen is smaller than the spot it goes in. If there is where do i buy it from. Also how hard is it to take the factory unit out and install the new unit
Pioneer AVH-X4500BT In-Dash Video Receivers (With Screen) at Onlinecarstereo.com
This is the pioneer I was looking at. It is navigation ready. What does that mean.
This is the pioneer I was looking at. It is navigation ready. What does that mean.
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For my head unit I went with the Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS. It is a double din DVD/CD unit with a 7" touch screen that has all the outputs for extra monitors and inputs for things like video game systems, back up cameras, and video sources. It does not have GPS built in but you can buy the Pioneer GPS module or use an ap from your phone. I will always either use my phone or the stand alone Garmin GPS I have in my truck. I picked this deck up for a couple of reasons. It has built in bluetooth so everything is hands free, even voice control on my Samsung Galaxy SIII. As such, it also allows me to stream music from my phone on the bluetooth audio input. It is also one of the only decks out that is compatible with Android for wireless streaming of Pandora. When I switch to the Pandora input (after setting that input to streaming in the setup menu) the deck automatically opens the Pandora ap on my phone and I get all of the standard menus and options on the screen of the deck that I would have on my phone or computer like thumbs up, thumbs down, song title, artist, album title, station list, etc. The deck also has full ipod controls and comes with a USB extension cable that I plugged the docking cable into that came with my ipod classic. It also charges my ipod. It has three sets of 4 volt RCA outs (front, rear, sub) and has active electronic crossovers and sub controls built in along with an 8 band equalizer with 5 preset curves and two adjustable curves. It is a very nice unit and does exactly what I need it to do. It has enough power that it will run the stock speakers or some decent 6.5" coaxials or very efficient components until you can get an ampifier. It also has an ap mode if you are an iphone user. With app mode, it will connect by blue tooth and let you display and control any ap from your iphone on the display of the deck. Here is a link: AVH-X5500BHS - <b>NEW!</b> - 2-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver with 7" WVGA Touchscreen Display, MIXTRAX, Bluetooth®, HD Radio™ Tuner, SiriusXM Ready, and AppRadio Mode for iPhone® | Pioneer Electronics USA The suggested price is $500 and I paid around $450 for mine and got the shop to throw in the wiring harness since I didn't have the JBL system. You should be able to find it at a stereo shop for $400-$450 or you can take your chances buying online for cheaper and getting a grey market or refurbished unit. Here is a picture of it in my truck streaming Pandora:
![Electronics Multimedia Vehicle Car Technology]()
As for amplifiers, speakers, subs, and everything else, the sky is the limit. Alot of people on here like the Polk Audio DB series of speakers and will put the DB6501 6.5" components up front with the tweeters either in the dash or in the sail panels on the doors and then put the DB651 6.5" coaxials in the rear doors. You can get the components for $150-$200 and the coaxials for $50-$100. I have swapped my front components a few times. I Have been running a set of the original Polk Audio MM465 Momo components for about 12 years and then decided to try some Image Dynamics CTX65cs components when one of my Polk tweeters went south. The ID mids and tweets sounded OK but I think the crossover was making the tweets sound a little harsh and the Polk mids had a warmer sound to them so now I'm running the Polk MM465 mids and crossovers with the ID tweeters in the sail panels and they sound great. Not being one to quit messing with my truck, though, I will be going to either the Hertz High Energy HSK165 ($450) or Rainbow SLC 265.25 Kick (can get a like new set for $330...MSRP $640) or possibly Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus C61 ($630) in a few days and I'll switch over and run the mids and tweets active.
There are a whole bunch of amps out there and the advice I'll give is to stick with well known name brands and get something with enough power that you won't starve your speakers or subs. I've run Alpine amps and liked them. The Alpine V Power series is their entry level and actually has very good sound quality for the money. I'm currently running a Boston Acoustics GT4100 reference amp on the mids and highs and a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000D on the subs. The new rage is class D amps because they have a smaller footprint and run cooler and more efficient than class A/B amps. I'm fine with that for subs and my Soundstream is a class D amp but I still think the sound quality on the class A/B amps is better for mids and highs and the amps tend to sound warmer and more rich...just my preference.
You don't mention what cab configuration you have but there are only a few options on enclosures for each so you should be able to find several threads here on the forum about that. Alot of people are going with JL Audio Stealth Boxes. I'll admit they do sound really good but JL gets a premium for those things and I don't think they are worth what they want. Of course I am saying this because I am comfortable matching subs with enclosures and even building enclosures when I need to. If you're not, either buy the JL Stealth Box or a decently pre made enclosure from somebody like supercrewsound.com or have the local stereo shop build you one. Then you just need to decide what size and how many subs you want.
The last thing I'll recommend is good high quality wiring and RCA cables and sound deadening. You need to have a large enough main power cable that you don't choke your amps. I use 0 awg from my battery to the distribution block then 4 awg to my amps. The ground cables need to be the same size as your power cable. Use RCA cables designed specifically for car audio and of decent quality. This will reduce the chances of introducing noise and will give better sound quality.
Sound deadening is important and can increase the SPL in your truck by 3 db just by reducing the amount of noise in the cab that cancels out the music and keeping the metal from ringing. Do some sort of sound deadening even if it's just throwing a few CLD tiles dow on large areas and then completely cover and seal your doors. It's probably the place that you will gain the most bang for your buck. I spent $300 on sound deadening materials and that $300 made more difference than any other $300 I spent in my system.
Of course, this is purely my opinion and you'll get alot of those on this forum.
As for amplifiers, speakers, subs, and everything else, the sky is the limit. Alot of people on here like the Polk Audio DB series of speakers and will put the DB6501 6.5" components up front with the tweeters either in the dash or in the sail panels on the doors and then put the DB651 6.5" coaxials in the rear doors. You can get the components for $150-$200 and the coaxials for $50-$100. I have swapped my front components a few times. I Have been running a set of the original Polk Audio MM465 Momo components for about 12 years and then decided to try some Image Dynamics CTX65cs components when one of my Polk tweeters went south. The ID mids and tweets sounded OK but I think the crossover was making the tweets sound a little harsh and the Polk mids had a warmer sound to them so now I'm running the Polk MM465 mids and crossovers with the ID tweeters in the sail panels and they sound great. Not being one to quit messing with my truck, though, I will be going to either the Hertz High Energy HSK165 ($450) or Rainbow SLC 265.25 Kick (can get a like new set for $330...MSRP $640) or possibly Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus C61 ($630) in a few days and I'll switch over and run the mids and tweets active.
There are a whole bunch of amps out there and the advice I'll give is to stick with well known name brands and get something with enough power that you won't starve your speakers or subs. I've run Alpine amps and liked them. The Alpine V Power series is their entry level and actually has very good sound quality for the money. I'm currently running a Boston Acoustics GT4100 reference amp on the mids and highs and a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000D on the subs. The new rage is class D amps because they have a smaller footprint and run cooler and more efficient than class A/B amps. I'm fine with that for subs and my Soundstream is a class D amp but I still think the sound quality on the class A/B amps is better for mids and highs and the amps tend to sound warmer and more rich...just my preference.
You don't mention what cab configuration you have but there are only a few options on enclosures for each so you should be able to find several threads here on the forum about that. Alot of people are going with JL Audio Stealth Boxes. I'll admit they do sound really good but JL gets a premium for those things and I don't think they are worth what they want. Of course I am saying this because I am comfortable matching subs with enclosures and even building enclosures when I need to. If you're not, either buy the JL Stealth Box or a decently pre made enclosure from somebody like supercrewsound.com or have the local stereo shop build you one. Then you just need to decide what size and how many subs you want.
The last thing I'll recommend is good high quality wiring and RCA cables and sound deadening. You need to have a large enough main power cable that you don't choke your amps. I use 0 awg from my battery to the distribution block then 4 awg to my amps. The ground cables need to be the same size as your power cable. Use RCA cables designed specifically for car audio and of decent quality. This will reduce the chances of introducing noise and will give better sound quality.
Sound deadening is important and can increase the SPL in your truck by 3 db just by reducing the amount of noise in the cab that cancels out the music and keeping the metal from ringing. Do some sort of sound deadening even if it's just throwing a few CLD tiles dow on large areas and then completely cover and seal your doors. It's probably the place that you will gain the most bang for your buck. I spent $300 on sound deadening materials and that $300 made more difference than any other $300 I spent in my system.
Of course, this is purely my opinion and you'll get alot of those on this forum.
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if you want nav., don't get a nav ready unit,
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The DVD/CD slot is behind the screen. When you want to load a disc the screen slides down and out of the way. You can also adjust the angle of the screen. The only difference between the AVH-X4500BT that you posted and the AVH-X5500BHS that I have is that the 5500 had HD radio built in, is satellite radio ready, has a rear 3.5mm A/V input in addition to the standard rear A/V input, recognizes a couple of additional video disc types, and has full selctable button illumination color. When I bought mine there was no 4500 but I would have probably still bought the 5500 just because of the extra A/V input, HD radio and upgradeability to satellite radio.
I think you are referring to the dash kit as the thing on the sides that makes the radio fit. You can get it at most any stereo shop or order it online. I got mine here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13399_Metra-99-8220HG-High-Gloss-99-8220.html
Get the 99-8220HG if you have the gloss black trim around your heater controls or get the 99-8220CHG if you have the metal flake grey around your heater controls.
Check out Hertz and Rainbow speakers as well, not as popular, but some of the very best out there. I would've gone with another pioneer unit if not for the wanting of a real GPS package. Go play with the pioneer APPRADIO2 as well if your an avid phone user.
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you need an install kit like I gave the link to and you need a wire harness like this if you don't have the JBL system: Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker: Electronics
If you have the JBL system then you need this wire harness: Amazon.com: JBL Amplifier Turn-On Interface for Toyota Vehicles - PAC TATO: Electronics
If you have factory steering wheel controls and want them to work, you might want to pick up one of these:
If you have the JBL system then you need this wire harness: Amazon.com: JBL Amplifier Turn-On Interface for Toyota Vehicles - PAC TATO: Electronics
If you have factory steering wheel controls and want them to work, you might want to pick up one of these:
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