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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my first Tundra - 2010 double cab Rock Warrior and I want to bring the front end up and level the truck. there are a 1000 suggestions on kits on the web. What works best for a long term working solution?
 

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All depends on budget.


Name your price, and look at options within that range.
 
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Looking for inexpensive but not cheap. functional, but doesn't need to do the baja 1000.
5100s middle setting. Leave the rear at stock height.
 

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I also have a 2010 DC. Definitely go with the 5100s. I have mine on the top setting and the front is about 1/2 an inch lower then the back. Rides better as well. You can do all 4 corners for about $350. It's up to you if you want to do a front diff drop. Most people say it's not needed under 3 inches of lift. I put one on mine just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so with the 5100's - no other equipment is needed to get the height up? and I like the idea of not putting other parts on and changing the travel distances of the wheels.
any suggestions on the diff drop? best company? how difficult is it to do?
thanks!
 

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Nothing else is needed for the 5100s. Some people will buy a coahcbuilder shim to stick on top of the drivers side to correct the lean. I didn't and you can't even notice it leans to the drivers side unless you measure. As far as the diff drop goes it is very easy to install, all you really need is a floor jack and the correct socket. You can get them all over the place, I got mine from Low Range Off Road for $25 if I remember right.
 

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If your rear shocks are still good them I wouldn't see a problem with leaving them alone. Lot's of people have done it that way.
 
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awesome - thanks for the help. Any thoughts on replacing only the fronts with 5100's and leaving the rear stock? advantages/disadvantages?
The stock TRD Bilstein shocks in the back are the same as 5100s. Depends on whether the ones you have are in good shape or not.
 

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The stock TRD Bilstein shocks in the back are the same as 5100s. Depends on whether the ones you have are in good shape or not.
Actually they're not, but they are close enough where you can run them in conjunction with 5100's up front and be ok. The TRD Off Road Bilstein's are the 4600 series.
 
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Which are the same as the 5100s internally.
So they're just different on the outside?

I believe they're valved similarly, which is why they work well together. I'm not trying to pick a fight with ya, and I am by NO means a shock expert at all. I was just trying to clarify for anyone reading what you said and thinking the TRD Off Road trucks come with 5100's, because they don't.
 

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So they're just different on the outside?
"The Similarities: The 5100 series and the Heavy Duty shocks use the same technology internally. Both use the same internal valving and at stock height will ride the same (shocks for lifted trucks may use different valving settings in order to accommodate the extra weight of larger tires). Both shocks are pressurized with 360 psi of nitrogen to prevent shock fade and foaming of the shock oil. The outer construction of both shocks is identical as well with an extruded metal body rather for maximum strength and top of the line seals. The 5100 series and Heavy Duty 4600 series are both covered under Bilstein's limited lifetime warranty that protects against any manufacturer defects for the life of the shock."

Bilstein 5100 vs Heavy Duty 4600 - Shockwarehouse.com
 
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Would the 5100s work just as well for a CrewMax truck? I have a 2014 TRD CrewMax that I'd like to level out.
All 2007+ except for the Pro.

There are other options too. You might want to look into Rancho Quicklift. They are a little more expensive ($176 ea), but come with springs already installed (will save something on installation costs), plus they have adjustable damping which is nice. They claim 2.25" lift vs standard. You would get a little less on TRD Crew, but ~2" is perfect IMO.

Note they have a left and right. Plus they say not for a TRD or Crew, but that just means the lift will be less than 2.25".
https://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS999...automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
 
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All 2007+ except for the Pro.

There are other options too. You might want to look into Rancho Quicklift. They are a little more expensive ($176 ea), but come with springs already installed (will save something on installation costs), plus they have adjustable damping which is nice. They claim 2.25" lift vs standard. You would get a little less on TRD Crew, but ~2" is perfect IMO.

Note they have a left and right. Plus they say not for a TRD or Crew, but that just means the lift will be less than 2.25".
https://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS999...automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
The Rancho level-it kit works better than the QL. I had the QL before, and had to change my stock springs over to get proper lift on my 2010 RW CM.

On the Level-It, I had to swap springs, as they don't come with them. But it got proper lift height.
 

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How much lift did you get with the QLs? 2" is plenty IMO, unless you are getting UCAs. They are spec'd to give 2.25" of lift on the non-TRD, non-Crew trucks. Toyota has a different spring for pretty much every version of the Tundra. Slightly different lengths I guess to handle different weight. https://parts.olathetoyota.com/auto...ne/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat

A person could always add some Coachbuilder shims if they wanted more height. Big bonus of the QLs is the damping adjustment so you can dial your ride.
 
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How much lift did you get with the QLs? 2" is plenty IMO, unless you are getting UCAs. They are spec'd to give 2.25" of lift on the non-TRD, non-Crew trucks. Toyota has a different spring for pretty much every version of the Tundra. Slightly different lengths I guess to handle different weight. https://parts.olathetoyota.com/auto...ne/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat

A person could always add some Coachbuilder shims if they wanted more height. Big bonus of the QLs is the damping adjustment so you can dial your ride.
1.25" was my gain on the RW CM w/5.7.

I did like the adjustable knob. But to be honest, once you set it, you leave it alone. It was set to 1-2 clicks up from middle on both the FJ, and the RW Tunder.

And they seized in place after about a year or so. Rancho would have warrantied them, but didn't feel like swapping springs over again. Plus you have to send them in for warranty.

Rancho worked with me when I had the issue. I mean a LOT. That is the reason I went with them the third round on the 17.


But knowing how many different spring rates Yota uses on our trucks, it just made more sense to use my original springs and know I will get proper lift height.

With the supplied top spacer in the uca kit, I would have had 3" I imagine. I got 2.5" without them.
 
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