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The tire will stick out in either setup. More with the Fuels. Rubbing will also be worse with the fuels with the lower offset but should be minimal. I had to trim the skid plate with my setup 20x9 +30 wheels 35x12.50. Here is my setup for reference.

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It looks like you were able to keep the mud flaps as well with those? I don't see any rub marks. Love the setup
 

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It looks like you were able to keep the mud flaps as well with those? I don't see any rub marks. Love the setup
I was able to keep the mud flaps. I just took them off this weekend to add flares. You will probably need to shift your front fender liner forward. I have an aftermarket bumper where it is not retained.

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Only 34's but hey

I know they only 34's but figured I'd share
275/65R20 BFG K/O's on factory rims
3/1 supreme suspension kit
No rub, no cutting, no problems with the ABS
No loss of power, ride feels almost like it did with 100% factory
Love the look
Chip will be next, but I can spin the 34's on dry pavement with no problem
 

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Ok abt to pull trigger on +12 ballistic wheels. I'm running a 3/2 with 35" tires. I'm Wanting the lower offset for two reasons looks and to remove my 1" wheel spacers. I know I'll have to cut my body mount and front bumper but how much? Thanks guys.


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Hey guys...looking to pull the trigger on tires and level kit on my tundra. Am I going to have any problems running my stock wheels (as shown in the picture in bottom) with 295/70-18 nitto trail graps with a 3/1 LRO level kit? Thanks!
 

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Ok abt to pull trigger on +12 ballistic wheels. I'm running a 3/2 with 35" tires. I'm Wanting the lower offset for two reasons looks and to remove my 1" wheel spacers. I know I'll have to cut my body mount and front bumper but how much? Thanks guys.


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No doubt you will require modification. But it's all nothin you can't handle. If you want the jesters I know you are limited to that offset. I have the +12 on mine and having done the fender and BM mod myself I'm sure you can get it to work. Every truck is a little bit different.


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Awesone!! Thanks for those pics by the way really helped visualize how much to cut!!


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The tire will stick out in either setup. More with the Fuels. Rubbing will also be worse with the fuels with the lower offset but should be minimal. I had to trim the skid plate with my setup 20x9 +30 wheels 35x12.50. Here is my setup for reference.

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Am I missing something here? I according to the sticky at the top of the page. It says that a positive offset moves the hub out which would mean that more of the rim was to the inside. Where as negative offset moves the tire more to the outside.

Please help me understand this:)
 

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Am I missing something here? I according to the sticky at the top of the page. It says that a positive offset moves the hub out which would mean that more of the rim was to the inside. Where as negative offset moves the tire more to the outside.

Please help me understand this:)
It easy terms, the higher the positive offset the more the wheels will be tucked into the fenders. Most stock wheels are +60 offset and they sit nearly flush with the fender. There are just over 25mm in an inch so if you swapped from a stock +60 to a +35 then your wheels would stick out 1" further than stock. This keeps on going into negative numbers.
 

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Ok so I just ordered a set of Mayhem Rampage wheels 20x9 and they asked me if I wanted an offset of 0 or +18. I told them I want them to fit so they said 0 offset. The way I see that is the wheel is going to stick out 2.5" or so from the stock wheels. Would that be correct?
 

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Ok so I just ordered a set of Mayhem Rampage wheels 20x9 and they asked me if I wanted an offset of 0 or +18. I told them I want them to fit so they said 0 offset. The way I see that is the wheel is going to stick out 2.5" or so from the stock wheels. Would that be correct?
They will stick out 60 mm more than stock at 0 offset. Which is about 2.3 in. At 0 offset you are more likely to rub than +18. The reason they are more prone to rubbing is not because they are closer to the a arms or other suspension parts but because of the the position it puts the tire in as you turn. Going strait you would likely have no rubbing. It is when you turn the wheel when you get the rub.

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Ok then that confirms what I was thinking. I'll have them change the order then. For now I am only going with 33's but the next tire change I might go to 35's and I want to stay with the same wheels.
 

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Hey guys...looking to pull the trigger on tires and level kit on my tundra. Am I going to have any problems running my stock wheels (as shown in the picture in bottom) with 295/70-18 nitto trail graps with a 3/1 LRO level kit? Thanks!
Just put the LRO kit on my 2014 DC. Getting the 295/70/18 trail grapplers mounted to my stock TRD rims on Monday. Keep an eye on my build (link in sig) to see how it goes.
 

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They will stick out 60 mm more than stock at 0 offset. Which is about 2.3 in. At 0 offset you are more likely to rub than +18. The reason they are more prone to rubbing is not because they are closer to the a arms or other suspension parts but because of the the position it puts the tire in as you turn. Going strait you would likely have no rubbing. It is when you turn the wheel when you get the rub.


Do you not think that all lifts are different from manufacture. I was told from revtek my level would fit 33" and 35" with a 4.5 backspace. If I'm right a 4.5 backspace is -6 offset. That's way out there. I ordered Fuel wheels at +1 offset instead of +18. I'm thinking they're going to sit nice and level with my flares with no mods or very little.
I REALLY HOPE it works that way.
 

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Poop your flush with factory at +20. I'm going BW so that's why the +1 will show flush I think. +18 isn't enough to push out with BW to run flush. Every truck is different also.
 

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They will stick out 60 mm more than stock at 0 offset. Which is about 2.3 in. At 0 offset you are more likely to rub than +18. The reason they are more prone to rubbing is not because they are closer to the a arms or other suspension parts but because of the the position it puts the tire in as you turn. Going strait you would likely have no rubbing. It is when you turn the wheel when you get the rub.


Do you not think that all lifts are different from manufacture. I was told from revtek my level would fit 33" and 35" with a 4.5 backspace. If I'm right a 4.5 backspace is -6 offset. That's way out there. I ordered Fuel wheels at +1 offset instead of +18. I'm thinking they're going to sit nice and level with my flares with no mods or very little.
I REALLY HOPE it works that way.
Every kit and truck are different. I am speaking in general terms from experience and collectivly from others experiences who post here. I hope what ever you get it works for you.

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With my luck i'll be screwed. I'll leave the tire shop and pull up to a set of lights and see a guy with the same setup but with what I can't run.
 

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Ok then that confirms what I was thinking. I'll have them change the order then. For now I am only going with 33's but the next tire change I might go to 35's and I want to stay with the same wheels.
Just FYI you can get the 0 offset to fit with 35" tires as long as you do the bmm and the plastic mod to the front of the fender wells. I run true 35" nitto trail grapplers and 20x9 wheels with +10 offset and I have over 1.5" of clearance between the tightest spot. Witch is the bm and I could have trimmed more on it to gain more but I still have not got mine to rub. I had the 33" on mine and the tundra just swallowed them the 35s look way better IMO
 
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